I just had some lifters go out on my 86 model. So i've started the teardown and rebuild. I have a chance to buy an 87 model that has the reverse and high gear out in it for 400bucks. What are the chances that my trans will go in this newer model? Thanks JD.

 

Are they both automatics? If so, should be a direct swap. Even if one was a 5-speed, it could still be done. Why not buy the '87 for $400 and just rebuild the tranny?

 

Yeah, thats what i will do. I built the trans last year in the one i have now. I rely on it to get me back and forth to work everyday, its about 25 miles one way. I really don't want to have to drive this 80 model dodge pickup for very long. Its a rattle trap and the heater does'nt work. Thanks for your help, was'nt sure if would interchange, now i know. JD.

 

Ok, i've checked out the 87 bronco II 2x4 i was considering buying. First off, it's an Eddie Bauer seems to have all the bells and whistles, straight body, good interior, all the glass is good. So heres the bad part, none of the guages are working, no dash lights, can't hear the fuel pump running, needs exhaust fixed, the guy said overdrive and reverse is out in the trans, but it actually is locked up, won't roll, he has the drive shaft out to move it. And the engine won't start. Thats the bad parts of it. I noticed that the engine would hit when you turn the key on, but as soon as you turn it off it quits, he resently had the ignition replaced. That sounds like its not going into the run mode, Probley has something to do with the electrical inside the cab. I would think that could be easily fixed. Any advise on that would be a great help.

Also, my main question. I have an 86 model 4x4 i'm rebuilding the engine in, has a good transmission and running gear. How difficult would it be to either swap bodys and turn the 2x4 into a 4x4, or swap frount axle, engine, trans, rear ring and pinion, (i figure it would have a diffrent gear ratio). Would i have to modify anything such as my steering, brake lines, wireing? I'm sure i would have to cut a hole for my 4x4 shifter. Thanks for your help!

 

"Hit" as in, when you turn the key to run, the starter engages? If so, that would be a bad ignition switch, which is located ON the steering column, I believe. The key cylinder actuates a rod, which actuates a switch. Had the same problem on a Pinto, had to replace the switch.

As far as converting the 4x2 to a 4x4, you can swap pieces and parts between the two, but I would recommend finding a 4x4 transfer case out of a Ranger or BII ('83-'90, but hopefully closer to the year yours is) and a D35 out of a '90 BII or a '91-'94 Explorer to swap in. More than likely, since the '87 is an automatic, it probably has 3.73 or 4.10 gears in the rear axle. You can check that by checking the axle code on the door jamb decal, or by locating and reading the info off the tag that should be attached to one of the differential cover bolts. After you know your axle ratio, then you can look for what you need. It'd be easier to rebuild or replace the tranny in the '87 and convert it without tearing down your other rig... plus, if you put a Dana 35 front axle setup in there, it'll be a lot better, IMO. Hope this helps

 

When i say hit, i mean the engine fires and trys to run, but when you turn the key back it stops. Also would that switch control all of my electrical parts in the dash, such as guages and dash lights, and fuel pump, could that be the problem with that? I think i may go ahead and buy the thing, get them both running and weigh my options at that time. I realy want to upgrade a good solid truck, but i just can't see going from a 4x4 to a 2x4.

 

Again, does "hit" mean it turns over the engine with the starter? That's what it sounds like, and that sounds like the ignition switch is fubar'd. You may have a blown fuse for the gauges and lights, or the lights could be blown as well. Could also be a bad headlight switch or the wiring pigtail that plugs into the headlight switch. If the headlights work, but the running lights and dash lights DON'T, then it's more than likely the headlight switch and/or a burned wire for the running lights. I had to replace both the switch and part of one of the wires going to the headlight switch on mine because of a similar issue. And yeah, you could probably just rebuild the transmission in the '87 then decide if you wish to convert it to a 4x4 later.

I'm also wondering about your '86... if in fact it was the lifters, or it was just a noisy valvetrain (the typical tapping 2.9 problem). If you're doing the lifters, you might as well put a new oil pump in while you're at it... but hopefully the cam bearings and main / rod bearings aren't worn out as well. If when you get it back together and have 10W-30 in it, it's still noisy as hell... even with a new oil pump... more than likely it's the bearings. A lot of people claim that 20W-50 will "fix" it, but running 20W-50 didn't work for me... I switched back to 10W-30 and now most of my noises are gone. I think the only ones I may have left are either from the timing chain or all / some / one of the v-belt driven accessories on the engine.

 

I mean the engine starts and then imediately shuts off, i can tell it has a bad muffler or hole in the exhaust somewhere. It turns over fine. You can't hear the fuel pumps running when you turn the key on. The headlights and tail lights work, don't know about the turn signals yet. The dash lights nor the windows or door locks, none of the warning lights come on except just as it seems to start just for a split second. btw i did get it for 300, i think the body is worth that, got it home last night. Have'nt really had a chance to start doing anything to it yet.

On the 86, the tapping was more of a loud clicking, it started all at once pulling a hill. Run the truck three more days to work and back, the last day it started missing. Pull one valve cover couple rockers had about a 1/16th" play in them, started the engine, held the valve down with the butt of my hammer and it stoped for a short time. But anyway, i've got to get the trans out and into the other one and get it on the road, then take my time with the rebuild and repair the trans, the guy i bought it off of said his brother had the trans rebuilt, said it cost over none hundred dollars and the overdrive and reverse did'nt work and could not get anything done about it, so he just parked it. The engine including the water pump is painted blue, so i'm guessing that it has been out and worked on also. Thanks for your help, i'll keep you posted.

 

Sounds like the lifters may have seized... or the valvetrain is just loose. Better safe than sorry, though. Hopefully, getting the "new" one going goes fairly well and easy. Sounds like you may have a bad high-pressure inline pump on the '87, or, something going on with fuel delivery. Sounds like an electrical nightmare, however, take your time and figure out what's going on and make repairs. Sounds like a lot of blown fuses or fusible links or connections. Take your time and trace everything out. If you need any help, I'm sure myself or someone here can help you.

 

The $400 BII is starting to sound more like a $200 BII. IMO

 

I think you might be right. I had a chance to look at it last night and found alot wrong with the electrical. The engine will run if you keep the starter engaged, you can rev it up, it sounds allright except for the exhaust leak. The reverse lights stay on, have head lights but no tail lights or marker lights. The door lock works on the hatch, but not the doors, the windows don't work. the dash lights work and the tach works, the radio is back lit but does'nt come on, the blower works if you wiggle the ignition just right. The flashers flash on the dash but the lights don't come on on the outside. Brake lights don't work, the engine warning lights come on only while starting. I checked my fuses they are all good and have power going thru them, the breaker for the power windows does'nt have power to it, did'nt check the other breakers. I did'nt see any wires cut other than the one going to the rear view mirror, it just has a red wire sticking out of the headliner, and it was'nt "hot". The steering colom has some play in it and the drivers seat is busted on one side. Thats about it so far, i'll start pulling things out and checking wires tomarrow. I'll give it a weekend to figure out, if no luck its going on the back burner. I'll let you guys know. Thanks again.

 

Sounds like you need to replace all the exterior light bulbs, the headlight switch / wiring fix, and the ignition switch (or fix the rod / linkage that connects the key lock to the switch itself) to start off with. May also need new door lock buttons or solenoids for the doors, or maybe the wiring is disconnected somewhere. If the power lock works on the liftgate but not the doors, then it's something in / on the doors, as they are on the same circuit, if I remember right. The wire coming out of the headliner could be anything, so it'd be best to trace it out. You can probably find pieces and parts either at one of your local junk yards or at lmctruck.com and get 'er fixed up nice. The whole tranny issue, though.... just sucks that it's not driveable under it's own power so you can just fix the gremlins and go with it!

 

if i can get the wiring figured out, i'll just get the tran out of the other Bronco and put in it, then i'll have engine work and trans work to do to get the older one going.

 

Ok, i've got my electrical problem fixed, it was the ingnition switch. The guy had taken all the light bulbs out of the truck for some reason, so my lights work properly. Got it running, the only gear working is 2nd, everything checks out good except for that. Pulled the trans, was full of burnt oil. Got the trans out of my other truck, started putting it in. Heres my problem now, maybe you guys can help me with. Got the trans under the truck, installed the torque converter, slide it onto the shaft, turned it and it went in a little further. While i was tightening the bell housing bolts the top ones were pulling tight, but the bottom ones still had about a 1/4" to go and started getting tight. My question is, do i not have the converter all the way onto the shaft? Is thier something i'm missing here, everything looked indentical. I've got the studs thru the flywheel, last time i done this i remember while i was tightening the converter bolts it would move from side to side just bearly, on this one it seams to be tight, no play in the converter where it comes thu the flywheel. Thanks JD.

 

when you put the convertor on..
it went on and while turning it and pushing on it there should have been 3 clicks and that would have let you know it was on correctly. the bell housing should mate flush against the engine block all the way around. check the angle on the motor/trans..maybe the rear of the trans is jacked up to high or the rear of the motor to low?