FE engine upgrade
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FE Engine Upgrade
OK, considering all your inputs heres my plan over the next 6 months. What can I say, married with kids. Check the compression ration of each cylinder. If ok, put a die in my oil to verify the source of my oil leaks. Otherwise rebuild the whole thing. Pull the engine and make the repairs. Install a set of headers with 2 1/2" pipe and flow masters. While everything was out, I will install a Center Force clutch assembly and replace the u-joints and mid bearing. I was also going to install power steering in the process. I just need to find a local shop to shorten my steering column. Once the engine is back in the truck I will convert it to electronic ignition and install a TBI system. What do you guys think about this plan.
thanks,
rtw
thanks,
rtw
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
To run a Bendix PS box which is a direct bolt in from a manual box is like adding a hand full of sand into your motor, a POS leaker that's expensive to rebuild and twitchy at speed. Why torture yourself? I yanked my 69K mile Bendix out as it leaked and replaced with a Saginaw system, Bendix is a wall art dust collector now.
Best to change column, left motor perch, firewall bracket, pitman arm off a truck with a more common and cheaper Saginal box, rebuild kits are availabe and cheap. Last time I checked before Ford quit selling Bendix seal kits they wanted $153.
There is a reason why it only lasted a few years and they switched to Saginaw's.
Best to change column, left motor perch, firewall bracket, pitman arm off a truck with a more common and cheaper Saginal box, rebuild kits are availabe and cheap. Last time I checked before Ford quit selling Bendix seal kits they wanted $153.
There is a reason why it only lasted a few years and they switched to Saginaw's.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Mar 2, 2007 at 08:43 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 134
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From: idaho
check the junk yards, you will be surprised how much interchanges from the trucks and vans of diferent years and body styles. you may be able to find one the right length. 73-79 with power steering have a real short one if memory serves, but best to take a tape measure out in the yard with you. may save some dough and piece of mind when relying on someone elses work. if you want flow, check out glass packs, its a straight shot all the way thru, no curves.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2006
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
To run a Bendix PS box which is a direct bolt in from a manual box is like adding a hand full of sand into your motor, a POS leaker that's expensive to rebuild and twitchy at speed. Why torture yourself? I yanked my 69K mile Bendix out as it leaked and replaced with a Saginaw system, Bendix is a wall art dust collector now.
Best to change column, left motor perch, firewall bracket, pitman arm off a truck with a more common and cheaper Saginal box, rebuild kits are availabe and cheap. Last time I checked before Ford quit selling Bendix seal kits they wanted $153.
There is a reason why it only lasted a few years and they switched to Saginaw's.
Best to change column, left motor perch, firewall bracket, pitman arm off a truck with a more common and cheaper Saginal box, rebuild kits are availabe and cheap. Last time I checked before Ford quit selling Bendix seal kits they wanted $153.
There is a reason why it only lasted a few years and they switched to Saginaw's.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Not so, if you had an early 70 truck (made in 69) that still had a Bendix box you need the Saginaw boxed truck left perch.
Bendix boxed PS truck perch is different than that of a Saginaw PS boxed truck perch.
They are stamped with a different angle between the legs.
Bendix boxed PS truck perch is different than that of a Saginaw PS boxed truck perch.
They are stamped with a different angle between the legs.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Kingsport, TN
While we're on the subject - my '75 F-250 SC doesn't have PS. I'd like to add PS. I have the pump/pulley, and "cooler" pipe. Which steering box is best ? Saginaw, I've been told. What piston / off what ? I can handle it as is, but my other 1/2 wants power. Thanks for D input.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 909
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From: San Luis Obispo, CA
Before machining exaust manifolds, which I stongly agree is the BEST solution, there is another solution that is cheap & might even work for you. There is a sintered iron version of the soft "donut". I have purchased them at NAPA, but you have to get the parts counter guy to do a little work. (They are probably a FT engine part.) If your surfaces are not too bad, these will "mostly" seal and they will carbon up with time (just like the exhaust manifold-to-head joints without gaskets). Worst case they will leak a little, but will resist blowing out much better than the softies. If your are short of $$$, they are worth a try.
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JR Headers
Ok, I am putting the 1972 F100 back together. I have had several issues but here is one that I am not sure what the solution is. I purchased a set of JR headers. When I installed them, the flange on the header prevents the clutch fork from operation properly. The fork is up against the header flange. I could cut part of the fork to clear the flange but it will still be close. Any suggestions?
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