Problems back, Need more ideas.
Thread Starter
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Thanks for the reply. I've ran the Mobil Devac 1300 15w-40 for 120 of the 125k that's on the clock. Never had any starting issues before this. This problem is random and I can't seem to make it happen when I want it to. Around here we have more 80*+ days than 20*- ones. We had some days near 80 just recently.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Try a jumper wire directly to the fuel pump the next time you start it cold and see if it makes a difference. I doubt it but who knows? I would slap a gauge on to check the fuel pressure. If the fuel pump is up to the task, then that pushing the pedal ain't making it. Something is cutting out. The PCM does control the fuel supply based on the TPS and IVS, but not by virtue of the FP which is simply on or off. You are overcoming some sort of problem there when you get it to start by flooring it. It may be a bad connection at the pedal assembly, bad pedal assembly, or poor connection/signal from the IPR or ICP since you have addressed those. But then, why does throttling it help it start when it wouldn't otherwise? In these instances, I unplug, inspect, and reconnect a lot of connectors.
Thread Starter
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Thanks Tenn, My thinking as of now is the increase pedal when it does start allows the engine to a faster idle as soon as it starts. Maybe increasing the oil pressure? Could even be increased amps to the fuel pump. But for what ever reason, when shes acting up, it will not stay cranked for more the 1/2 second unless I give about 1/2 to 2/3 go pedal. I can usually let off after a couple of seconds of fast idle and it stays running, although usually rough. That's why I'm leaning toward oil pressure problems.
Thread Starter
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Ok, here's the latest. Truck sat for over 30 hours with no starting. Decided to try before work last night. Cranked right up ran like it supposed to all the way to work. Started every time smooth and ran good until I was almost home. Then the crap started again. Pulled codes and of couse 1211 was there and a new one I hadn't seen before P0340 CMP Sensor Circuit Malfunction. I changed oil, oil filter and fuel filter. Would have changed CPS if I had replaced the one I let my buddy have last month when his went out. I don't think that is the problem.
Now what I did notice. When cycling the fuel pump, I noticed it sounded bad, started off strong and by the end of the 20 second cycle it sounded weaker and almost like it was struggling. Sounded a little like pump was cavitating.
Now for what may be a dumb question, If the TPS is telling the PCM to make power and the fuel pump is not suppling the correct amout of fuel pressure, would that cause my problems? I know that I need to check the fuel pressure and I plan to. I don't have the gauges needed to do that, yet. I do know that I have never heard the fuel pump sound like that. I can't make it do it all the time. Sometimes it sound better, but not as strong sounding as I remember.
Is 125K miles about the life of a fuel pump?
I also pulled all my intake boots off and cleaned and reinstalled. My hat is off the you guys that do that all the time. My dang knees will be hurting next month. Sorry for the long post, but fishing season is here and I don't have a tow vehicle.
Now what I did notice. When cycling the fuel pump, I noticed it sounded bad, started off strong and by the end of the 20 second cycle it sounded weaker and almost like it was struggling. Sounded a little like pump was cavitating.
Now for what may be a dumb question, If the TPS is telling the PCM to make power and the fuel pump is not suppling the correct amout of fuel pressure, would that cause my problems? I know that I need to check the fuel pressure and I plan to. I don't have the gauges needed to do that, yet. I do know that I have never heard the fuel pump sound like that. I can't make it do it all the time. Sometimes it sound better, but not as strong sounding as I remember.
Is 125K miles about the life of a fuel pump?
I also pulled all my intake boots off and cleaned and reinstalled. My hat is off the you guys that do that all the time. My dang knees will be hurting next month. Sorry for the long post, but fishing season is here and I don't have a tow vehicle.
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Thread Starter
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Originally Posted by amiller93
Low fuel pressure can cause a 1211 code
Thread Starter
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
I hope it is that simple, I do know that when the problem has got worse, so did my oil leak. One dumb question. Does the HPO system hold pressure when engine is off? Just trying to figure that causing the starting issues. Thanks for your help and as soon as site allows me, I will leave you some much deserved Rep Points.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
Well I had a CPS that just wasn't quite right it would occasionally set a 340 or 344 code and made for longer that normal starts. If the CPS is getting flakey the PCM can have a hard time determining TDC when trying to start.
Thread Starter
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Of the next Riffraff East
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 2
From: Concord NC
Here's the latest for those interested. Changed out IPC and cleaned IPR, no help. Replace all HPO o rings, no help. Fuel pump checked out good, both at idle and driving. The mechanic checked the HPOP. At idle, pressure started at 480+ and gradually fell to as low as 413psi. He said it the WOT test was ok. The IPR test was at 65%. Not sure what that means but he said that was good. He is leaning towards a new HPOP. We are going to check the HPOP again this evening and use the test standards that amiller93 e-mailed me. I need to be sure this is going to get me back on the road. So far he has replaced my EBV sensor, cleaned the tube out, replaced all the HPO o-rings, replaced both upper and lower ball joints on both sides (been needing), run all the test. So far I owe him less that $700.00. I feel the man is trying to be fair. Any ideas you guys have will help. I don't mind paying for a new HPOP if that is what I need. I am just afraid that after replacing it the 1211 code will be back and the truck will still run bad.
I also want to publicly thank amiller93 for his one on one help. He has been great. Thanks Alan. Hopefully I will soon be able to close this thread on a good note.
I also want to publicly thank amiller93 for his one on one help. He has been great. Thanks Alan. Hopefully I will soon be able to close this thread on a good note.
