Which one and why?
Choice A: $5,500 and 7hr oneway to pick it up (the drive really doesn't matter)
"1955 ford f-100. It is an older show truck, that has been sitting for the past couple years. I have put in fresh fluids etc, and it is currently being driven. It was is a slight fender bender about 2 years ago, and has been parked until recent. I'll start with the body. The truck hit a deer at a low speed so it is contained to just minor sheel metal damage. Both front fenders recieved damage, and are repairable, but a nice extra pair of originals are included to help fix, the grill recieved some minor damage, but will be really easy to straighten, also the gravel shield was damaged, but also an easy fix. The hood is very nice with no rust and has a BMW tilt forward system. The cab is as solid as you will find, only a little rust starting in the pass front cab corner, very easy fix, and that is all the rust in the entire truck! Doors are very nice and solid, open and close well. The pass side door latch is broke, but I have a couple good used latches included to help fix this. The running boards are very solid, the pass board is very nice, the driver board has some minor damage from the deer, but also an easy fix. rear fenders are very solid and straight. The bed is the original 55 unit, and is overall pretty nice, but thgere are some dings from hauling over the years, same with the tailgate.
The chassis is the original 55, with Fatman Mustang II front end, with 11" power disc brakes, and stock style A arms. The rear is an 8" ford unit with 3.00:1 gears, with modified rear springs and hangers for a softer, lower ride. The truck rides and handles VERY well! drive line consists of a U.S. 4 core radiator. A rebuilt 351 Windsor bored .030, mild RV cam, Aluminum intake with an Edelbrock carb, Lokar throttle, Jacobs electronic ignition, Hooker full flow headers, It has about 39,000 miles since a total rebuild. It holds a steadt 60 lbs of oil pressure and never heats up. Trans is a rebuilt ford AOD, with a Lokar shifter and kickdown. also about 39,000 since fully rebuilt. Shifts and drives out great. Drive shaft is cusom built and fully balanced.
The goodies consist of Vintage air and heat, that blows nice and cold, pioneer super tuner AM FM cassette, Painless wiring kit, VDO classic guages that all work well. New poly form replacement gas tank up front 14 gallon, and a custom built stainless 20 gallon tank hanging out back, all fully switched and working. Edebrock fuel air mixture readout guage. Electric wipers, all glass was replaced and is still very nice, one small star in windshield. All lights etc work. Interior is a pair grey cloth bucket seats, with a custom wood center console, door panels and kick panels are still serviceable, but dated, carpet is still serviceable, but faded. No headliner, it was trashed. Chrome defrost deflector, chrom ash tray, and chrome glove box door. Plus lots of other chrome goodies. 2 sets of tires and wheels, one set of Chrome ford ranger wheels with nailguard tires, and a set of big and little Aluminum slots with nearly new tires. Polished Stainless front bumper, and a custom built rear bumper with removeable trailer hitch, and trailer wiring. New front amber park light lenses are included to replace the cracked originals. This truck is a great driver, not really a show truck anymore, but with a couple weekend work, cleaning up etc, it could be a real head turner, and will make a great daily driver or cruise nighter.
Things that do need to be addressed on it are, The horn only works part of the time, I'm guessing just a loose wire, the radiator has a small leak, not bad, just makes a wet spot at temerature. The front could use and alaignment, tires were starting to wear a bit after hitting the deer, but still rides nice and handles well, A arms etc are fine, just need a quick allignment.and as stated earlier the pass door latch needs repaired, but those parts are included. i would not be afraid to get in this truck right now and go anywhere, it just needs a little TLC from sitting and fix the front. Fly in and drive home. Note: It does have power rack and pinion steering, it has true dual exhaust with an H pipe. It has a remote trans cooler with a canister syle filter, same as oil filer for trailer towing. The bed woos was replaced with white oake strips which is very solid, but is staring to weather, should clean up with a new coat of varnish, and it has chrome bed strips, and a full size chrome spare tire."
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55m.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55l.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55p.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55b.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55n.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55j.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55g.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55h.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55c.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55d.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55i.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/55e.jpg
Choice B: $6,000 and 12hr drive oneway
"1956 FORD F100. WE BASICALLY BOUGHT THE TRUCK AND GAVE IT A PAINT JOB. WE BOUGHT IT WITH THE ENGINE AS IS. I WAS TOLD IT WAS A 427 BUT IT MIGHT BE A 460. TO ME THEY LOOK THE SAME BUT YOU MIGHT KNOW BETTER. THE TRUCK IS PRETTY SOLID BUT IS NOT A FULLY RESTORED VEHICLE BY ANY CHANCE. I JUST UNDERCOATED THE TRUCK SO IT IS ALREADY TREATED UNDERNEATH. THE TRUCK IS POWERFUL AND DOES NOT HAVE POWERBRAKES, SO THAT IS SOMETHING DEFINATLY YOU SHOULD PUT IN. JUST REGULAR DRUM BRAKES.
TRUCK HAS FOUR BRAND NEW TIRES AND RIMS 1000 DOLLAR VALUE.
LITTLE STUFF THAT IT NEEDS. THE HANDLES FOR DOORS TO BE INSTALLED INSIDE. THE MIRRORS ON THE SIDE. I DID NOT WANT TO PUT THE STOCK ONES SINCE I DON'T THINK THEY GIVE THE TRUCK PAINT JUSTICE. ONE OF WINDOWS TO FIX SO IT CAN ROLL UP. THE GAS TANK IS THE KEG IN THE BACK SO IF YOU WANT TO MOVE IT TO ITS ORIGINAL POSITION THAT IS DEFINATLY AN OPTION. TRUCK MUST BE TRAILERED."
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56a.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56b.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56d.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56e.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56f.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56g.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56h.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56i.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56j.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56k.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a91/fish451983/56l.jpg
Thanks Dustin
Bodywork takes lots of time and expense. The '55 obviously needs some, as well as showing signs of rust issues.
The '56 might be easier and cheaper to bring it up to a drivable condition. Also the '56's are typically more desireable and valuable because they were a one-off year and have a "sinister" look that appeals to hot rodders.
Based on the photos and the information you have provided, I think I'd go with the '56. Looks good, and the price seems like a bargain IMO. Would look even better with a chrome grille!
Bodywork takes lots of time and expense. The '55 obviously needs some, as well as showing signs of rust issues.
The '56 might be easier and cheaper to bring it up to a drivable condition. Also the '56's are typically more desireable and valuable because they were a one-off year and have a "sinister" look that appeals to hot rodders.
Based on the photos and the information you have provided, I think I'd go with the '56. Looks good, and the price seems like a bargain IMO. Would look even better with a chrome grille!
Last edited by ProjectF1056; Feb 17, 2007 at 02:09 PM.
To me the 55 is only a beater due to the extensive rust, horrible workmanship and general neglect. Remember most of the rust can not be easily seen, if you see any rust it can be muiltplied by at least 10 for the acutal extent.
The 56 would my choice but only after a thorough fridge magnet test for bondo and an up on the hoist underneath close up inspection.The 56 almost looks too good so that is why the reason for magnet test. From what I can see I really fell in love with it, too bad pictures maybe decieving at times so be sure to carefully inspect it in great detail before laying your money down.
I would really question the 427 as it`s more likely a 390. The 427 is a rare motor and is usually a very expensive touch (if in decent shape), it can cost more than the seller is asking for the this 56.
I would really hesitate to spend this amount of money buying sight unseen, you are too dependent on the seller`s desciption, honesty and knowledge.
Last edited by Fomoko1; Feb 17, 2007 at 03:02 PM.
To me the 55 is only a beater due to the extensive rust, horrible workmanship and general neglect. Remember most of the rust can not be easily seen, if you see any rust it can be muiltplied by at least 10 for the acutal extent.
The 56 would my choice but only after a thorough fridge magnet test for bondo and an up on the hoist underneath close up inspection.The 56 almost looks too good so that is why the reason for magnet test. From what I can see I really fell in love with it, too bad pictures maybe decieving at times so be sure to carefully inspect it in great detail before laying your money down.
I would really question the 427 as it`s more likely a 390. The 427 is a rare motor and is usually a very expensive touch (if in decent shape), it can cost more than the seller is asking for the this 56.
I would really hesitate to spend this amount of money buying sight unseen, you are too dependent on the seller`s desciption, honesty and knowledge.

Sorry, I finally had a chance to regurgitate something I learned in B-school!
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Center console is 1963/65 Galaxie 500 XL. Judging from the shift lever, one has to wonder if the 352/390 engine/Cruise-O-Matic (MX) combo was also used from the 63/65 Galaxie 500 XL. I doubt very much that's a 427, has what appears to be stock exhaust manifolds from a 352/390. Not the 406/427 type.
The engineering number from the oil dipstick might help pin down the year of the engine.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Feb 17, 2007 at 06:09 PM.
The 55 is trash. Forget it. You want a good body before ANYTHING ELSE!!! The 55 definately doesn't have that. Rockers, fenders, gravel shield, grill, thrashed bed wood......that's about $1600 in parts and 80 hours labor (min), not counting paint! Not a good start.
The 56 is generally a more desirable model and looks to be a better possibility depending on the magnet test and some crawling around under it. Don't worry about the driveline. If it's all there, you'll have it going in no time. Sice you say you want a show truck, everything will be redone. But the solid body is the real investment. You may change everything else before you're done, but the sheet metal is what you are really buying.
My advice: go to see the 56. Check it over really well. Buy it, if you like it. If the body is mostly bondo, or there is rust in the cab corners, door bottoms, rocker panels, etc, PASS ON IT. Consider the expense to drive to see it your tuition for the education. Don't get desperate.
BTW, $4000 is a virtual drop in the bucket for restoring one of these today. Your chances of finishing either of these into "show" condition for that budget is zero. A driver, sure. A show truck, no....and that assumes you plan to do ALL of the work yourself. That $4000 is only worth 80 hours (at best) of somebody else's time. You aren't likely to get a decent paint job for that money today.
My 2 cents.
The 55 is trash. Forget it. You want a good body before ANYTHING ELSE!!! The 55 definately doesn't have that. Rockers, fenders, gravel shield, grill, thrashed bed wood......that's about $1600 in parts and 80 hours labor (min), not counting paint! Not a good start.
The 56 is generally a more desirable model and looks to be a better possibility depending on the magnet test and some crawling around under it. Don't worry about the driveline. If it's all there, you'll have it going in no time. Sice you say you want a show truck, everything will be redone. But the solid body is the real investment. You may change everything else before you're done, but the sheet metal is what you are really buying.
My advice: go to see the 56. Check it over really well. Buy it, if you like it. If the body is mostly bondo, or there is rust in the cab corners, door bottoms, rocker panels, etc, PASS ON IT. Consider the expense to drive to see it your tuition for the education. Don't get desperate.
BTW, $4000 is a virtual drop in the bucket for restoring one of these today. Your chances of finishing either of these into "show" condition for that budget is zero. A driver, sure. A show truck, no....and that assumes you plan to do ALL of the work yourself. That $4000 is only worth 80 hours (at best) of somebody else's time. You aren't likely to get a decent paint job for that money today.
My 2 cents.

I really appreciate everyones input and opinions, this is helping alot.
I really appreciate everyones input and opinions, this is helping alot.











