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I think I know what is finally happening here. Your PCM you mentioned came from an 89, where the pin 8 feedback was expected. The wiring harness is original 87? If so I dont think the feedback was in the 87 harness? This could be why there is a 95 code.
Not sure if you could add the feedback but testing the FP might reveal more info if this is really causing your miss.
Yes my harness is from the 1987 F150...it is the original harness that came with the truck....
I think that yeah i know whats happening too Finally....I am glad that this is happening!! It all comes together in the end.
Since the harness is missing the #8 plug, its not getting any feedback, hence the code 95. Since I've never pulled codes before, this is the first time i've run into this. Thats why I am getting the 95.
I think that this is going to go back to the old fashioned plug-wires are touching ordeal, which is why I think it must be random....I will try it in the morning and let you guys know......
Code 85 -- Canister purge circuit failure...which is to be expected because this truck used to be a 5.0, and doesnt have a canister purge solenoid, so the computer thinks it needs it.
Does that mean that my PCM is shorting out?? Or a ground wire happened to fall off somewhere? Where should I check?
Code 95 could also mean that someone ran a fuel pump test on it. I get a 95 every time I do. Same code will be flagged for either a loose wire (open circuit) or a short around the output from the ECM (short circuit). The fuel pump can be run from the DCL by jumpering (I think it's pin 6) to signal common (ground). This will energize the fuel pump relay to run the pump without the engine running. As I said, it also generates a code 95. A failing coil in the relay could be causing your intermittent hesitation. I'm chasing pretty much the same problem on my '86 Bird. Only does this after it warms up, and only in 30-45 mph traffic. Runs like a top on the interstate and idles like a dream, though. Kinda rules out the TFI and temperature effects on that, unless it's just bad at a certain temp, and good if higher or lower. The fuel pump relay may just be loose in the socket or have a little corrosion on the pins for the coil leads. Pull it out, and plug it back in several times to scrape through it, or do the job right, and clean the pins with an abrasive pencil eraser, then put a very light coat of electrical grease on it. Red Mobil lube is what I use on all the connections on mine if I take them apart.
A failing coil in the relay could be causing your intermittent hesitation.
Then wouldnt it have been fixed when I bought the new relay?
Originally Posted by Old_Paint
Only does this after it warms up, and only in 30-45 mph traffic.
Mine does it in all traffic 5mph-50mph, cold or hot
Originally Posted by Old_Paint
The fuel pump relay may just be loose in the socket or have a little corrosion on the pins for the coil leads. Pull it out, and plug it back in several times to scrape through it, or do the job right, and clean the pins with an abrasive pencil eraser, then put a very light coat of electrical grease on it. Red Mobil lube is what I use on all the connections on mine if I take them apart.
Thanks, I will pick up some dielectric grease or something for those connections in the morning
looking at my wiring diagram, the brown wire goes to the inertia shut-off, then from there, a pink/black wire goes to the high pressure fuel pump but yeah, no feed back to the #8 pin. (Is that why it's picking up that code?
Yes this is why you are getting the code 95.
I have one manual that shows the wire from the relay to the inertia shut-off as PK/BK and another manual shows it as brown from the Relay to a splice and then PK/BK to the inertia shut-off switch. I do not know witch manual is right.
Originally Posted by nighthawk285
And can I run a jumper wire over to the #8 pin and make it like the 89 harness in that way)
Yes you could run a wire from the #8 pin to the fuel pump relays brown or PK/BK wire if you can get at the pin, may not be easy.
Originally Posted by nighthawk285
Yet your diagram shows pink/black to the inertia switch....gotta love haynes manuals. I was going to go back to look at your original diagram, but its not there anymore...???...
I notice though that the ground at the high pressure pump doesnt connect into the harness anywhere, but finds it's own ground with the other pumps, so I'll see if I can't crawl under there tomorrow and chase some wires.
all right I got er fixed.....Subford, thanks for the help man, the wiring diagrams really helped....as you guys all thought it was, it was a bad ground.....where the high pressure pump and the other pumps ground, the wire was all corroded, and was just sitting there not connected to it, so thanks for everything guys! It works beautifully now.
Well I hope you guys didnt unsubscribe to this yet....cuz the problem is back....
It lasted a day without any problems......like I said, it is pretty random.
Today, it started doing it again, and more than ever......Went and talked to the ford guy, he said that it might be the ignition pickup in the distributor dying....Does this happen?
One more thing, that I'm not sure if its relevant or not......during the bigger cutouts (hiccups, burps whatever), if I am looking at the tach when they happen, it cuts down about 200rpm for the burp, then comes back up, so could this confirm about the ignition pickup?
As far as the miss is concerned, I can tell you this. I have had the same problem with mine since a relatively routine tune up last spring. I have traced every wire, vacuum line, and sensor on this thing and it still misses and is getting worse. The only thing i have not check/replaced is the distributor.
Now, if your tach jumps with no visible or felt rpm change then yes, most likely it is distributor related. Ive also heard that some distributor bearings can wear enough to cause the random miss.
If you havent already checked you FP, this check can see if your getting the correct pressure. If you pull the vacuum line off the FPR and see or smell gas, then it needs replaced.
The tach jumps only when a very "felt" rpm change occurs, and yeah, mine was after a tune-up too....can it be because some random dirt got in the distributor when the cap was off?
The pick-up unit or bushings could do it but after a tune-up most of the time it is:
1. a bad plug.
2. bad or miss routed plug wires.
3. plugs gaped too wide.
4. broken vacuum hose.
oops, I guess I shouldnt say tune-up....it was just after I cleaned everything on top of the motor..... I did however order stuff for a tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil).....all motorcraft, and they'll be here hopefully sometime early next week.
I am pretty sure about the vacuum hoses not being broken, but I will check them again today
I didnt find any hoses, but I think I might have narrowed it down some, or the random effects have kicked in again and its trying to trick me.
Going with the dirt in distributor theory, I took the cap off tonight and got some of that compressed air stuff that they use for computers and shot some in there. A bunch of crap came out of there, blowing around, and I got a lot out. Took it for a drive, and it did a lot better......on a 20 mile drive, it only did it three times, so I am going to take out the distributor tomorrow and see if I can get everything out of there and make sure everything's connected in there.
took the distributor out, and now i have a possibly stupid question.....is the shaft supposed to move up and down when its out? like an 1/8 of an inch kind of movement? theres a gap where the shaft goes into the housing....is there supposed to be a bushing there?
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