Hydraulic clutch problem
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 117
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From: Southern Minnesota
Hydraulic clutch problem
i have an 86 302 with a 4 speed t-18 or 19 not sure but anyway the clutch petal has to be all the way to the floor to make it release i had the same problem about a year ago so i replaced the master cylinder and slave but it didnt really fix anything im sure somone else has had this problem
Thanks marcus
Thanks marcus
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50
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From: cedar rapids Ia
hi I had pretty muck the same problem, we put in a new clutch preasure plate we had the trans out 3 times in 2 day's
I went to the trans shop, they said the slave or master had air so I bled pumped then opened never anything, I went down there he said it can take them up to a day to get the air out I called another trans shop same story I got a haynes book they said that you have to change them together but when I tried to get them I could not so back to the trans shop they said they take master out tilt front down and leave all day or over night i did not want to take out so I jacked up the back of the truck and left overnight and laughed, next morning I put the lid back on started the truck held my breath and sure enough great pedal, I have helped atleast 20 people since then
just fill up the master cyl open the bleeder on the slave let drain untill the fluid has no air close then jack up the back of the rtuck take the top off over night next morning put top back on and hopefully good I have had great luck woith this
hopefully someone else has a better Idea
I went to the trans shop, they said the slave or master had air so I bled pumped then opened never anything, I went down there he said it can take them up to a day to get the air out I called another trans shop same story I got a haynes book they said that you have to change them together but when I tried to get them I could not so back to the trans shop they said they take master out tilt front down and leave all day or over night i did not want to take out so I jacked up the back of the truck and left overnight and laughed, next morning I put the lid back on started the truck held my breath and sure enough great pedal, I have helped atleast 20 people since then
just fill up the master cyl open the bleeder on the slave let drain untill the fluid has no air close then jack up the back of the rtuck take the top off over night next morning put top back on and hopefully good I have had great luck woith this
hopefully someone else has a better Idea
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
When you changed the master, did you pay attention to the mounting area? They are know to crack in the mounting area, and that allows movement, and makes it hard to release the clutch. I had to fix mine shortly after I got it for that very reason. I still have issues with the synchros in the trans as they got damaged by the partial engagement.
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Senior User
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From: Southern Minnesota
i bleed the heck out of it when i put it in i didnt jack up the back end yet but its worth a shot i guess but it drove it today after leaving it sit for about a month and it worked fine it just seems like when you get it hot or if you sit in traffic with the clutch in for long periods of time it starts acting up
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: cedar rapids Ia
that so funny that you talk about the mounting brackett tha was the same problem on mine the clutch master the bolt was on the out side of the firewall, I has my wife get in and push the clutch in it would move about 2in I finialy took it all apart and welded the crack in the firewall put it back together with fender washers
then we replaced the clutch assy,
I have learned a lot from this site, I am new and I wish I would have found it before
then we replaced the clutch assy,
I have learned a lot from this site, I am new and I wish I would have found it before
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 155
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From: petersburg
get yourself a hand pump bleeder and reverse bleed the system. put fluid in the canister hook the line from bleeder to the slave bleeder port crak it open remove lid from master and pump fresh fluid up through the system to the resavour on the master. air naturally flows up through fluid so this is the easiest and preferd way by most transmission shops to bleed these hydrolic clutches.the handpump bleeder is about 15-20 bucks at the zone and comes in handy for so many things it comes with a book telling you all the uses it may have for you best money you could spend on your tool colection
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by 77monster
get yourself a hand pump bleeder and reverse bleed the system. put fluid in the canister hook the line from bleeder to the slave bleeder port crak it open remove lid from master and pump fresh fluid up through the system to the resavour on the master. air naturally flows up through fluid so this is the easiest and preferd way by most transmission shops to bleed these hydrolic clutches.the handpump bleeder is about 15-20 bucks at the zone and comes in handy for so many things it comes with a book telling you all the uses it may have for you best money you could spend on your tool colection
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
It could also be a worn out throwout fork, that's what it was on my 84... I had the exact same problem.
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Muskegon, MI (home)
Could be, make sure you check for firewall flex... you will lose clutch travel from that also. Does the pedal feel soft? Sometimes I have found that removing the resevoir cap and sit there pumping the clutch pedal will work the remaining air out of the system.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: cedar rapids Ia
when I had my clutch problem we pumped the pedel so many days we would pump then my wife would pump then we would let sit nothing did any good
that is the reason for jacking up the back of the truck
the best idea I have heard is the reverce bleeding
in the past 3 months I have done atleast 15 or so trucks with the same problem
maybe I am just unlucky, but the only thing I have found is jacking up
works everytime
just jack up about 12in put on jack stands overnight in the morning put the cap back
on and pump
everyone has something that works for them but if nothing has workrd for you yet
this is a free fix
you could probley park on a hill, front end faceing down and get the same effect
that is the reason for jacking up the back of the truck
the best idea I have heard is the reverce bleeding
in the past 3 months I have done atleast 15 or so trucks with the same problem
maybe I am just unlucky, but the only thing I have found is jacking up
works everytime
just jack up about 12in put on jack stands overnight in the morning put the cap back
on and pump
everyone has something that works for them but if nothing has workrd for you yet
this is a free fix
you could probley park on a hill, front end faceing down and get the same effect
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Coal Creek CO
Hydraulic Clutch
Two things go wrong with these clutchs, one already mentioned is the firewall flex issue. My 84 master tore away from the firewall from so much flexing over time. I put a large piece of metal on the inside of the firewall to spread out the pressure there.
IMHO, I believe in this case it is the connecting point between the clutch linkage inside the truck and the push rod going into the master cylinder. A 1/4" of slop on this critical point will cause a huge loss of movement on the clutch end.
Everyone with these older rigs should look closely at the two things mentioned here, firewall flex, and that connecting point slop. Some years back I wrote a piece for this web site, I beleive it is still there referencing this critical wear point.
I too pulled the clutch and replaced all the components to no avail, then replaced the hydraulics and no help, then finally found that link point wear, put in an adjustable push rod so I could take the slop out and all better.
The older trucks didn't have an adjustable push rod, the newer ones did
Jeff
84, F-250, 4WD, 460, std cab
240k and loving it.
IMHO, I believe in this case it is the connecting point between the clutch linkage inside the truck and the push rod going into the master cylinder. A 1/4" of slop on this critical point will cause a huge loss of movement on the clutch end.
Everyone with these older rigs should look closely at the two things mentioned here, firewall flex, and that connecting point slop. Some years back I wrote a piece for this web site, I beleive it is still there referencing this critical wear point.
I too pulled the clutch and replaced all the components to no avail, then replaced the hydraulics and no help, then finally found that link point wear, put in an adjustable push rod so I could take the slop out and all better.
The older trucks didn't have an adjustable push rod, the newer ones did
Jeff
84, F-250, 4WD, 460, std cab
240k and loving it.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 38
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do all these model fords use a hydraulic clutch? where is the cylinder? mine seems to be working fine except for the clutch bumps in granny and reverse...i think this is due to a rear seal leak...just trying to gather as much info as possible about this old truck.
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