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actually the pulley setup is quite cool if i do say so myself, lol. i had the problem of converting from serp to v belt styles and almost put down the $50 for a pulley from kilbey. then i was at Ace Hardware one afternoon just pitiling around and i started to conjure up something. basically i took a union nut, correct size bolt, and a 3" pulley with 5/8" bore. i cut the union down to the correct length, then i put the bolt through the pulley and threaded it in the union and tightened down. this ensured the pulley was perfectly straight. i didnt wanna weld it cause if i needed to iu wouldnt be able to remove the alt pulley!
very simple setup and WAY cheaper than kilby's, lol.
on the output i had to have a custom hydraulic hose made b/c of the high heat off the compressor. then from there i used standard pipe thread fittings. i have right off my tank p-switch, check valve, elec solenoid valve, etc directly off my tank
-cutts-
Last edited by fishmanndotcom; Feb 17, 2007 at 11:30 PM.
do you know (with the difference in pulley size) about what your york is turning for RPMs?
do you know if this would work for a power steering pulley? because mine is on the drivers side. How did you know what length of bolt to get (I know stupid question)?
and I agree, thats a good idea and a way cheaper setup
no i honestly dont, but it makes me kinda wonder! i'll try to find out
well the problem i see with that is the p/s pump pulley is usually pressed on, i dont think they had threads on them. if there is threads, i know it'll work! what you might could do is weld a bolt (with the head cut off) to the end of the pulley shaft! you'd have to be careful not to get too much weld so you dont prevent yourself from removing the pulley. you also need to make sure its as close to straight as possible! you dont want it wobbling, you wont be able to keep a belt on it!
i just tried a couple different length bolts, the guys at the Ace here are pretty cool and they let me try a few different configurations in the parking lot.
Have you ever heard of these getting extremely hot??? I pulled the bottom of the crankcase off to check the oil and drain the old stuff out, and the crank is blued by the rod bearings....
they do get pretty warm, not sure enough to blue the metal but anythign ispossible. could have been that it was run dry once and oil was added just in time! i dunno
ok...I ordered a rebuild kit from Kilby, only $30 including, so we'll see what comes with it.....BTW, I swapped that one from above, because like you said, it wasnt a true york, and when i took off the clutch, I found that it was based off of the low displacement 206 model, not the 210 that I was looking for.
So, after finding a 210 and cleaning it up really nice, I'm waiting for a rebuild kit, since when finding the displacement, I found a broken seal.
I just did a tranny swap from an AOD automatic to a ZF 5-speed, and still have the factory auxillary cooler in front of the radiator....so I was thinking if I could just use an electric oil pump to plumb into it and cool the oil, it should really help with things.
However, after doing some research, electric oil pumps are really expensive, and generally have way more GPM than I really need (only really need 1-2, just a nice slow flow....SO my thought was this....... Could I use one of the low-pressure in-tank fuel pumps and just switch it over to pump oil? Or are they going to give a really high GPM too? And can they "survive" being unsubmersed themselves (for their own cooling)??? .
Has anyone done anything like this (say for differentials, transmissions, and such)