When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ive got a 78 f250 that im restoring and its time for the body work. Luckily the only thing that needs to be done to the body is painting it along with fixin the occasional door dings it has. I was just wonderin how body shops cover up these small dents so they dont show up after it is painted. Thanks.
Depending just how indepth you want to go, and depending on how deep the dings are, there's a couple ways you can go about it. One is to remove the door panel, then use a body hammer on the inside and a dolly on the outside with light taps to bring the metal back as close to where it should be. Then use a light coat of a polyester glazing putty to fill in the remainder of the dent.
The other way ( if the dents are really minor ) would be to use a skim coat of body filler, then sand everything back flush to give your door(s) the like smooth finish they had originally. Rule of thumb, body fillers aren't meant to fill in a big valley or deep dent, they're practical use is up to about an 1/8" maybe just a bit more but nothing major.
I couldn't tell you how many times I've seen something put together only to reveal 1/4" of bondo or better. Not to say this doesn't work, but you run into the issue of cracking, or the filler in time popping out. Good bodywork doesn't have to be the hardest thing in the world, it just takes time and patience.
Depending just how indepth you want to go, and depending on how deep the dings are, there's a couple ways you can go about it. One is to remove the door panel, then use a body hammer on the inside and a dolly on the outside with light taps to bring the metal back as close to where it should be. Then use a light coat of a polyester glazing putty to fill in the remainder of the dent.
The other way ( if the dents are really minor ) would be to use a skim coat of body filler, then sand everything back flush to give your door(s) the like smooth finish they had originally. Rule of thumb, body fillers aren't meant to fill in a big valley or deep dent, they're practical use is up to about an 1/8" maybe just a bit more but nothing major.
I couldn't tell you how many times I've seen something put together only to reveal 1/4" of bondo or better. Not to say this doesn't work, but you run into the issue of cracking, or the filler in time popping out. Good bodywork doesn't have to be the hardest thing in the world, it just takes time and patience.
What Indy said is what a body shop would do because your'e paying.
By dings do you mean a chip in the paint, dented metal or both? If it's a chip in the paint and you are not intending to repaint the body panel you can sometimes dab in some color matching paint. If you have dented metal without paint damage youi can get someone to do paintless repair, which is a process whereby they slowly force the dent out from the inside.
Last edited by brucewolff; Feb 16, 2007 at 12:46 PM.
I thought about the paintless dent repair route too Bruce, but not sure how easy of a time one of those techs would have being his truck is a 78. The thicker and stiffer steel on his truck won't be as easy to work out as one a newer vehicle. I guess he could try that route, but if they don't get it within his personal tolerances, he's still stuck doing some minor bodywork.
True, but why pay a PDR guy, then have to go back and do more bodywork if they can't get it out. I'd rather just save the extra bucks and do it myself from the word go. lol
Gotta agree though, bodywork ain't nothin but a thang.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.