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At the back of the master cylidner, is a block. I put a new master cyclinder in, but it is leaking at the block directly behine the master cyclinder. Could it be because I did not use teflon tape? I have pressure on the pedal, but it does not bleed through the bleeder valve at the hubs. Is the block on wrong?
Dilemas dilemas....but fear not 2007 SuperNationals I will be there!
Typially brake lines have flare fittings. Teflon tape should not be used on flare fittings. Teflon tape is for pipe thread. Flare fittings seal by pressing two cones (flares) against each other. If one is leaking it could either be becaue the nut is cross-threaded and so not applying uniform pressure to the braek line flare, or the flare is miss-shaped. Did you make your own brake lines? Its easy to not get a good flare when making up lines.
As for not getting it to bleed through the bleeder valves, pull the bleeder valve all the way out and see if you can blow through it. It is common on these old trucks for the bleeder to be plugged. If so its easy enough to clean it out with a piece of wire.
Good luck man, you're an inspiration to us all
Bobby
I used the ones already there, the brake lines were fairly new. Bobby, I dont think the fluid is getting through the block. It is leaking with pressure applied between the master cylinder and the line block.
What does the block do? is it just a "T" to break off break off lines to each wheel? if so theres not much chance of it being plugged unless the brake system sat open for a period of time.
You should be able to "crack" the brake line on the far side of the block and see if you can get fluid out of it.
The brass block on the back of my 1956 master cylinder is attached with a bolt that is drilled and cross-drilled to admit brake fluid to the block. Between the bolt head and the block, and between the block and the master cylinder, there are copper washers. The bolt through the block is also threaded to accept the brake light switch. If you have installed the wrong bolt - I know that's a longshot - then you'd have pedal pressure, but no fluid moving to the wheel cylinders. The copper gaskets can leak; new ones are available. Old ones can be reused by annealing them with a torch, or you can even lay them on the surface of your electric range. Heat them until they glow and that will soften them so that they seal better.
My local NAPA has some copper washers. I will pull it apart and see what I can find. I don't work until 11.00 tomorrow so I can work late tonight. I don't sleep anyway.
Does your block have five ports? If it does it is designed for use with a brake booster and only the center port is drilled to the master cylinder. See
I set one of mine up with a loop to temporarily eliminate the booster so I could have brakes when I want to move it to the driveway and clean the garage.
KSMITH203--Remember all these answers so you can guide me on my brake over-haul.Post more pics so we can visualize and it can be like a virtual action show-haha
Mine does have that. I blocked the other ports off with a plug. Is this why mine does not work? I see you have two lines left off. Does one go to the booster and one a return? Or how does it work?
Thanks Kevin
Last edited by ksmith203; Feb 15, 2007 at 04:15 PM.
Reason: ?
Kevin,
I wouldn't think so. The plug should not extend into the block past the flare so it wouldnt be able to block the flow of fluid to any other port. The brake light switch should have regular pipe fittings and I guess there is a slim chance that it threads all the way in and could possibly create a blockage (I'm grasping at straws here)
You might just have to pull the whole mess off and run a wire through it to see if its clear (shoot, whats another cup or two of brake fluid all over the floor at this point?)