Weird starter problem
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 447
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From: Jacksonville IL
After a long wait, I was able to go out and take a look at the starter. The bolts felt snug. So, that wasn't the issue this time. The battery voltage measure 12.55V, but have not done a load test yet. I will take it to a battery shop this week. I proceed to take the starter out. I noticed that I can rotate the starter gear both ways. One way only the gear will rotate and the other way the gear and bendix will rotate. I always thought you should be able to move the gear only one way. Is this normal?
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I would still suggest a voltage drop test. It will tell you exactly what is wrong without pulling any parts off. Don't rely on the counter guys at the parts stores to diagnose it, or to give you an accurate load test on the battery.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 447
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From: Jacksonville IL
Battery checked good. Hooked starter back up. It started fine twice and then craped again. I will try out the voltage drop test tonight. I got two choices now:
1) Try out a NAPA starter.
2) Break down and take it to a shop.
1) Try out a NAPA starter.
2) Break down and take it to a shop.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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Make sure you do it with a Digital volt meter. Analog meters aren't as accurate. Start with the whole cable, from batt + to starter lug. Work your way back up the cable and you should find the bad spot. There should be no more than .5 volt drop. I'd guess it's your solenoid on the fenderwell. High resistance (Low cranking voltage) will fry a starter in no time. Sometimes it'll even make them spin, without kicking the bendix out.
Post up what you find. I'm curious about the voltage loss across the cables.
Post up what you find. I'm curious about the voltage loss across the cables.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Jacksonville IL
I got a digital Voltmeter. Will use that. I will post results tomorrow.
Just thought to share with you - I talked to a local mechanic that I normally go to. He is a good reputation in town and builds race engines. He thinks that the starter is the problem. He says that sometimes a bad starter will work first few times and then will quit.
Just thought to share with you - I talked to a local mechanic that I normally go to. He is a good reputation in town and builds race engines. He thinks that the starter is the problem. He says that sometimes a bad starter will work first few times and then will quit.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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That's correct and the reason I take my Alternators & starters to a Rebuild shop for re-building instead of a part store.
I get them done for about $25.00 and they last forever because quality parts are used in them.
Most stuff coming from Asia is faulty I have found.
I get them done for about $25.00 and they last forever because quality parts are used in them.
Most stuff coming from Asia is faulty I have found.
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I am a utility company mechanic, so as you can guess I've seen my share of bad starters. I will be the first one to tell you to stay away from the parts store starters, I've had terrible luck with CRAPA, Federated, Carquest, and anything not OEM or rebuilt by our local alt/starter supplier. They rebuild them in house and rarely have problems. I have gone back to OEM on all my fleet trucks to save having road calls for a bad starter with the bucket up in the air.
I would have to say seeing all the starters you've gone through there is something burning them up rather than getting that many bad ones in a row. I know the quality sucks but that is A LOT of wrenching! Low cranking voltage will kill a starter in no time. Doesn't take more than 1v drop to fry it in a short period of time. Curious to see what the findings are.
I would have to say seeing all the starters you've gone through there is something burning them up rather than getting that many bad ones in a row. I know the quality sucks but that is A LOT of wrenching! Low cranking voltage will kill a starter in no time. Doesn't take more than 1v drop to fry it in a short period of time. Curious to see what the findings are.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Jacksonville IL
So, does NAPA starter considered good quality? I am regretting that I got rid of my OEM starter. Wonder if I can pick one up somewhere.
Msbweiland, my current starter is not completely fried. It just seems to work on and off. I have not got around to checking the voltage drop - work sometimes keep me a little too busy.
Msbweiland, my current starter is not completely fried. It just seems to work on and off. I have not got around to checking the voltage drop - work sometimes keep me a little too busy.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
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From: Jacksonville IL
I was able to get one voltage drop test before I had enough day light left to put the NAPA starter.
The voltage across the posts without engine cranking is 12.67V
The voltage across the posts with engine cranking is average 10.86V
The voltage across the starter positive terminal and starter body lowest recorded is 10.46V, and average is about 10.70V.
I put the NAPA starter on and seems the truck is happy again. When it starts, I do not hear any momentary binding noise that I was hearing with the other starter (whenever it worked for a few tries). So far, it is engaging the engine good. I am yet to start the truck this morning to check if it will engage again.
The voltage across the posts without engine cranking is 12.67V
The voltage across the posts with engine cranking is average 10.86V
The voltage across the starter positive terminal and starter body lowest recorded is 10.46V, and average is about 10.70V.
I put the NAPA starter on and seems the truck is happy again. When it starts, I do not hear any momentary binding noise that I was hearing with the other starter (whenever it worked for a few tries). So far, it is engaging the engine good. I am yet to start the truck this morning to check if it will engage again.