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Weird starter problem

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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #16  
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There are short nose starters & Long nose starters
One is for autos (flexplates) & the other for std's (flywheels).

Then there are starters for higher compression engines & lower comp engines.
(more windings for extra ooomph)

He could very well have had the wrong application right from the start and that was perpetuated in replacements.


Some starters look the same and fit the same but there are internal differences.

He never mentioned if he has headers..which will cook a starter

Get me those case numbers
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:48 PM
  #17  
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Dennis, snow or no snow, I will get you the numbers today. And no headers here at all.
One thing I would like to mention though - the guy I bought the truck from rebuilt the motor. And it seem that he used older heads on a newer block - but I can't confirm for sure. All I can say that I got a consistent 130 psi on each cylinder the last time I checked compression - but I don't know if tells anything about compression ratio.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 02:57 PM
  #18  
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I'm talking Cubic inches.
The larger the engine the need for more powerful starter.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #19  
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Dennis, I finally got the starter number - it is:

E1AF-11131-BA

Does not seem to match with any of the starter number you listed.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 01:05 PM
  #20  
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That number is not recognized.
Only 11001-BA which says it is the right starter for a 302 A/T

Check/measure the nose length of the starter (part that goes into Trans housing) and the length of shaft for starter drive.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 08:52 PM
  #21  
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Dennis, just FYI,the started checked out good when Autozone tested it. I see that the starter spins like it should and the bendix kicks out like it should. I think I will go by NAPA and see if they got a starter that matches the numbers you provided.

I will measure the nose and shaft for starter drive.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 01:17 AM
  #22  
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I wonder of you have the correct ring gear ?

There was a 180 tooth & 184 tooth depending on the year of application
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 07:01 PM
  #23  
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When you say ring gear, do you mean the flexplate? I measured the starter nose and shaft.
Starter nose: Measure from the housing where the numbers are stamped to the tip of the starter. That is, the entire portion that goes inside the transmission. The measurement is 2 1/4"
Starter shaft: I measure the visible portion of the shaft and ring gear that spins. Measured 1 1/2" (approx).
I got some new bolts to see if they will fix my problem. Wonder if the bolts come loose and throws the starter off alignment.
The thing is that every one of the starter I got worked for a brief period before going kaput. Well, the last one did not go kaput, but will not engage after it engaged for one day.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 03:08 PM
  #24  
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Hi Denis,
Any more inputs on this? I will try out new bolts tonight to see if that works. Want to eliminate the fact that my bolts are wearing out causing the starter to get out of alignment.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 03:16 PM
  #25  
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I just noticed this thread again.
Sometimes I come back on and threads are already marked as read but hadn't been.
I obviously missed it.
Thanks for the measurement.

Now I have to trudge through 3 ft of snow to the garage to measure my starters
 
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Old Feb 22, 2007 | 06:41 PM
  #26  
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Hi Dennis,

After I changed the bolts and tightened them down real good, the starter now engages and starts the truck ! So, I think I am good for now. I think my lower bolt is a little short than I wanted to (it goes through, but leaves no space to put a nut on the back).
Would still like to know the measurements whenever you get to it, but no rush at all anymore now !
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 02:38 PM
  #27  
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Ok ! I spoke too soon !!

After I got the bolts replaced and tightened, truck worked fine for two days. Then the next morning, I tried to start it to go to work, same problem.....it will spin, but no engage. It has been raining and awefully cold for me to go under and take a look. I will wait till next weekend to check to see if the bolts came loose. But just wanted to update you about my sorry luck.....
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 02:47 PM
  #28  
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Have you done any voltage drop tests? I've seen starters spin but not have enough voltage to kick the Bendix out in everything from class 8's to the light trucks. Get yourself a good DVOM and get to testing. Something is eating up your voltage and causing the starters malfunction.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 02:54 PM
  #29  
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Are you talking about a regular multimeter? And do you check the voltage drop across the battery terminal?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 10:05 PM
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You want to use a digutal multimeter. Try this,http://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm

It's the only accurate way to check electrical connections, wires, and devices. I've had cables with 0 ohms resistance and still be bad under a load. This should narrow it down for you.
 
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