Head Gasket question
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New User
Joined: May 2006
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Head Gasket question
My straight 6 has been burning coolant for awhile now, so I plan on tearing the head off and replacing the gasket. I figure that while the heads off, I might as well do new rings because oil consumption is rather high. I will probably buy a remanufactured head so I don’t risk putting the old one back on and down the road finding out there’s a tiny crack I didn’t see. Anything else I should replace while I’m in there?
I’ve never done a head gasket before, but I’ve got a Chilton’s and I’ll set aside a weekend for it. Is this something an average driveway mechanic like myself can tackle?
I’ve never done a head gasket before, but I’ve got a Chilton’s and I’ll set aside a weekend for it. Is this something an average driveway mechanic like myself can tackle?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 394
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From: Nashville
a head gasket isnt too big of a deal, its a pain, but not a big deal... now rings are another story, you'll have to remove the oil pan, loosen the connecting rod bolts, and remove the pistons.. as well as hone the cylinder walls. you may be due for a full rebuild
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 86
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From: Nebraska
head rebuild
Instead of buying a rebuilt head why not just take the one you have to a reputable machine shop? It's up to you but beware of cheap rebuilt heads--a good percentage of them are pretty substandard. Oversized valve stems, etc. A good rebuild job on your existing head (assuming it's not cracked which they should be able to check for) and you're further ahead in my opinion. Rebuilding my 300 head a while ago was $400. I think that included the gasket kit, don't remember for sure.....
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I was having trouble finding a reputable machine shop in the area, but I was able to find one a few days ago. Hopefully the head isn't cracked, which was the major reason I was thinking about just getting a new one. I've been told that the heads on the straight6 commonly crack when the gasket springs a leak.
Cowchasinsix- any words of wisdom to an amature at replacing the head gasket?
Cowchasinsix- any words of wisdom to an amature at replacing the head gasket?
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I'm definitly gonna have it checked and reground if it needs it. The shop mentioned magnaflux, and I'm assuming this means finding cracks too small to see with your eyes. Is that what a magnaflux is?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 788
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From: Cascade, ID
If you redo the head but not the bottom end, chances are great that it will smoke when you put it back together due to blow-by past the piston rings.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 86
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From: Nebraska
amateur
K-man I'm just strickly shadetree mechanic. It isn't that difficult if you've got any mechanical ability. Just buy the Chilton's or whatever manual you prefer and go to it. Biggest thing is reattaching head to block. Everything's gotta be VERY clean and you'll need help setting head down on block STRAIGHT down so not to damage head gasket. P.S. my 300 was in an '89 F-150 just and ol' ranch truck so I redid the head and didn't do anything with the bottom end. Yes it burns oil but not enough to mess with. If you're driving it and don't have excessive oil burn now I wouldn't worry about redoing the bottom end depending on how many miles you're gonna drive her every year.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Milltown, NJ
Just a friendly reminder K man,
Follow the bolt, by the numbers, replacement pattern and don't forget to torque them evenly as you start to tighten down on them.
Check the alignment of the gasket as you go also to make sure it didn'r shift somehow.
Good Luck!
Follow the bolt, by the numbers, replacement pattern and don't forget to torque them evenly as you start to tighten down on them.
Check the alignment of the gasket as you go also to make sure it didn'r shift somehow.
Good Luck!
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