My 390's thirsty for either more octane or cooler intake charge. I figured water is cheaper than race fuel in the long run! Has anyone done business w/ snow or used any of their products to know their performance? Dependability? I'm lookin to get the Stage 1 Boost http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=6 . Talked to a Snow man and thats what he recommended for my mild setup. Anyone ever made a backwoods injection system themselves? The only thing holding me back from doing it myself is the injector itself. Anyone can come up with a pump and resevoir but this is hard to pass up for $219 w/ a lifetime warr. What about you gray haired fella's...I'm sure ya'll messed around with this stuff back in the 60's and 70's after WWII used it. Ever made one yourself? It'd be cool to say that I made something like this myself.

 

Well why would you wantto run race fuel in a mild build anyway? Your nor going to make anymore HP.. You only run Race fuel in an engine that wont run off of Pump gas to prevent Pre-detonation as Race fuels run a lower BTU than Pump gas..and burn cooler than pump gas..So its a must for High CR motors...That will build alot of heat..

I'd just throw a 100hp shot of NOS on it..and call it good!! JMO.. The only thing I use water for is cleaning off the tops of the pistons and the cubustion chambers from carbon build up on street motors....Bring em up to operating temps with the air cleaner of and Revs at about 3000-3500 rpm..and dump a couple shots into the carb,,2 or 3 times of that and its a clean as you can get it without tearing the motor down...

RJ

 

if your motor is built it might help ya.
I played around with a twin turbo Dodge 5.9 diesel with a snow kit on it.
It got me back 100 hp on the dyno, that i was loosing to heat, also kept egt's in check. Well worth the 250.00. But if your running stock compresion or anything under
9.5:1 you would be better off with the nos.

 

read up.



https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...anti-ping.html

 

Well if he has a mild build he shouldnt have a detonation problem?? and alot of guy that have a fairly good street build just back off the timing for running around town..and then crank her up for any track action and run race fuel..

No Need to spend money on water...where I come from water is free!! LOL..

Rj

 

Guys, that kit was made for people running forced induction. What it does, is it injects a supplemental water / methanol mixture in when the motor is under boost to cool off the charge. The motor still runs on gasoline. Cooler denser charge = more power and less detonation.

What he's looking for is a water injection kit, which sprays a very small amount of water in during cruise to prevent detonation and allow more timing for better mileage. I know these kits existed at one time, but I know of no place to get one now.

73F100*8Mile, have you tried heavier advance springs and / or delaying the vacuum advance?

 

Hell 220.00 bucks ? I'm just gonna take those winshield sprayers that never get used out here in Cali and point them into the carb. Add a little Ice & White Lightning to the resivour and walla LMAO!!!

 

Thats it kurt, I never figured my final CR but it def pings under a load w/ a empty truck. My timing is at 10 right now and as for the centr adv weights, I still got the same ones in it that came with the stock 360. I've gotta do more readin up before I go changin any of those weights and I've got the material ya'll gave me on here but no time to read. There are a ton of advantages I've been thinkin about though to the snow water injection.
1. Lifetime Warranty!!!
2. cleaner CC's!
3. more mpg!
4. I can run 87oct and still have higher octane when I run the -20 degree washer fluid w/ 49% meth. (right now I'm running 93)
5. Higher CR= more efficient, bit more power! (not getting the kit for the power, just to utilize what power I have w/o pinging but some power will come from the kit).
6. the obvious cooler intake charge

There are more advantages that I cant' think of at the moment but thats why I'm doing what I'm doing. Oh ya it only cost $219!!!
Why not do it myself?- B/c diy parts run right under $170 w/o the warranty and costs alot of time and tweaking. I want to install something and run it and it be dependable with an out if I need one...warranty!!!

 

Let us know how it turns out.. for that kinda bling it might be worth a shot?

 

It worked wonders to my twin turboed 5.9
Like I said over 100hp to the wheels on a dyno.
I was running around 60psi of boost at the time.

 

Done deal! I'm going for it and I don't mind one bit being another guinea pig. I tell ya what though, no matter whatcha say, there's always another mod to be made to your FE!! I keep saying "im through i'm though" and then something else pops up. But this one has got to be done to keep from engine failure due to detonation. Oh and then headers!! Then I'm through!! I swear! Now I've decided to purchase the injection kit, I just need the money still! Here's a question though, kinda vauge but I'll ask anyways...how high do ya'll think I'll be able to go with my timing with the cooler charge now? 18-20? What do you think would be safe? If you need to know exactly what 390 I'm running I'll punch it in next time.

 

Ron R, my boss owns a mid-late 90's dodge cummins and I spiked his interest after telling him your info on your diesel. Can you give me the specs on what motor that was on and which kit you used and all the results? Did you install it pre or post turbo? I read somewhere you can eat up your compression blades but I'm not sure what scenario that was.

 

Had a 2002 dodge with a hx-40 for a top turbo and a HT3b for a bottom, Industrial Injection "Dragon Flow" Injectors and a Drag comp box. Some F'ed up timing and a few other toys. I ran the snow kit to the intake hat just befor it enters the head. Ran a 14.50 in the 1/4 mile with a 8500lb 4x4 5speed truck on 35's

 

My boss has a '96 5.9 cummins and I'm tryin to talk him into goin with snow. We're wondering though, if the water snuffs the fire a little, then is your main gain higher compression on a diesel? Also which kit exactly did you get b/c i noticed there were about 5 to choose from for the 5.9. Thanks Ron r.

 

If I've said it once, I will say it again. Water/Meth (for our trucks) best thing since sliced bread. Lowers EGT's by approximately 200+ degrees when towing.

If you want strictly cooling, use water only. Even that will raise HP some as stated before. If you want some extra bling, add meth. You can approach upwards of 70hp then. If your truck is modified, fueling box etc. where else can you gain and additional 100 HP on a twined turboed heavy fueled truck.
BTW, you don't need to buy meth in bulk.

Here is my formulae, the cheapest -20degree WW fluid which is approximately 30% meth by content. Pour some out of your gallon jug, add 2 bottles of liquid heet (ONLY THE YELLOW BOTTLES), fill back up with the rest of the -20 and you are at 49% meth, 51% water.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES USE THE PURPLE -30% WW FLUID!!!. It contains ethylene glycol in addition to the methanol and EG (antifreeze doesn't burn).

No it will not put out the fire unless your using a garden hose.
I bought one of the first kits made and am unsure of what it is called now.

I know it works on the Diesel's and am sure it will perform on a gasser under the right needs. If your running a lot of timing and high compression its for you. If you got a stocker with pinging problems you need to fix it and not mask the real problem.

call em up and talk with them (snow) they are real nice guys/gals.

I plan on running there kit on my 428 but will be running high compression and or a procharger for a drag only car. Not shure of all that I am going to do yet but im working on it.