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I engage the headlight switch/pullknob and no headlights. I have first stage pull- running lights, After fully engaged for headlights if I add light pressure on the **** as if wanting to push it to the off the position the headlights will stay on only if I keep the pressure on the **** . Suggestions??
Last edited by Dutch123; Feb 12, 2007 at 01:17 PM.
Headlight switch in dash. Contacts are worn. when you pull it out check the harness connector and make sure it isn't melted or cracked, some of the earlier models had a problem with that.
Look at the underside of the ****. You will see a small slot. With switch pulled out place a small straight screwdriver in slot and press outward. You are depressing a small clip. The **** should pop off as you press out.
Remove dash panel unplug wires to switches. You should now see the switch itself.
Two small bolts i believe to release switch from dash. Pull switch outward and remove wire plugs. Check switch and plug for melting. If plug is melted cut off and replace with new.
Plug in new switch and reverse the removal process. **** should just push on and klik in place. Try lights, should be good.
Last edited by DPorter; Feb 13, 2007 at 06:41 PM.
Reason: spelling
Most Ford headlight switches have a spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch. Remove battery cable. Pull out ****=push in button=pull **** again. **** and shaft will come out as a unit. Next remove nut from switch, and switch can then be removed from dash.
To reinstall **** and shaft=just push it in=no need to press button.
Dont cut anything yet. Ford doesnt sell the connecting harness anymore.All you can buy is the switch.I ran into the same thing and got tired of the run around and just wired them straight to a toggle for low and high beams, may be a bit hillbilly but it works and it passes inspection. May not be what you want to do ,you could try broncograveyard or your local junkyard.
Got the aftermarket harness and connecting it correctly- still NO headlights. I have running lights.., dome, etc.. check the #19 40amp fuse it's good. I'm at a loss here?
Get a test light and a multimeter and start testing the light harness wires for power and ground. Start at the fuse box and work your way to the lights themselves.