injector change
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
injector change
I pulled out my #4 and my #2 injectors and when i pulled out the #2 a little oil filled the hole but when I pulled the #4 it filled up like my morrning coffee cup.
Iam sure it's not good and do not want to reinstall the injectors untill I know how to get it out.Or can I just leave it in and blow it out when I start it up??
This is my first dsl and iam learning as i go....thanks
Iam sure it's not good and do not want to reinstall the injectors untill I know how to get it out.Or can I just leave it in and blow it out when I start it up??
This is my first dsl and iam learning as i go....thanks
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Benton, LA
The Oil has to come out. I've recently changed the seals on my injectors. The first thing you have to do is ask someone before diving in to something you've never done. Don't mean to sound like a smartass, that's just good advice. I've learned that from doing similar tasks.
You have to remove the two oil plugs (Allen Head) on the head under the valve cover to let the oil drain. and the Fuel Plug on the back of the head ( 1\4" Drive), before removing the injectors. You'll have to ask someone else how to remove the oil from the cylinder. I don't know if you have to remove the head or if you can vacuum it somehow.
GoodLuck
You have to remove the two oil plugs (Allen Head) on the head under the valve cover to let the oil drain. and the Fuel Plug on the back of the head ( 1\4" Drive), before removing the injectors. You'll have to ask someone else how to remove the oil from the cylinder. I don't know if you have to remove the head or if you can vacuum it somehow.
GoodLuck
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Experience is something you have right after you needed it. I believe Kwik just turned the engine over with the cps out and the cps unplugged or whatever. Depending on how long the injectors are out, you may get fuel into the oil too. That is not good. Let me see if I can find a good link for you.
Here's one. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/457240-replacing-injector.html
Beans: http://beansdieselperformance.com/Injectorinstall.htm
Here's one. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/457240-replacing-injector.html
Beans: http://beansdieselperformance.com/Injectorinstall.htm
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Feb 12, 2007 at 01:05 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
I had to change my inj. o-ring. iI couldn't get the drain plugs out. I let i all drain into the block and cracked it over to empty the cylinders. Be carefull. The pressure coming out blew the rags i had covering the heads right off!! You maybe able to use a vacume brake bleeder and a small hose to suck it out. Just do the 2 cylider you have the inj. out of and do it through the inj. hole. No oil or fuel would have gotten into the other cylinders. Hope this helps!
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
well I used a turky tube ,a piece of air bag air line and some duck tape.I then sucked out all the oil/fuel that was in the #2 and #4 cyl..then I pulled the glow plugs and cranked it over to get the rest out.
Now it won't start and the #4 failed a buzz test.
amiller93 has told me it's air in the lines(posted under engine codes)............
What Iam going to do is drill a hole in the fire wall from inside the cab just behind the head and put a body plug in it so next time I can get to the plug with out any trouble.
Now it won't start and the #4 failed a buzz test.
amiller93 has told me it's air in the lines(posted under engine codes)............
What Iam going to do is drill a hole in the fire wall from inside the cab just behind the head and put a body plug in it so next time I can get to the plug with out any trouble.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Hey, skip that drilling. Has it started yet? Turkey baster can work, just don't wait until it's full and draining down. If you pulled all the GPs and cranked, then buttoned up, it should be getting close. Of course you will have fuel in the oil. Get it to crank then immediately change the oil.
Skip the buzz test for now, but remember it, it will start on 7 or even 6 cylinders. It will run rough untill all air is expelled.
Skip the buzz test for now, but remember it, it will start on 7 or even 6 cylinders. It will run rough untill all air is expelled.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Feb 13, 2007 at 12:35 AM.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 2
From: Spicewood, TX.
Spin the engine over by hand first, slowly, then use the starter. The engine oil/fuel has to come out before the engine is started or you risk the chance of hydrolocking the engine.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 803
Likes: 0
From: Bobcaygeon Ont.
I would see if you could get that #4 injector to buzz. If the #2 buzzed the #4 should to. All the injectors are back in and if you've rolled it over you should not have to worry about any more fuel or oil getting in the cylinders. Check your wiring harness for any bad wires. If you get the prob. figured out before you try to start it again check your hpop resevoir. It maybe low and t in need of more oil. Hope you get it figured out. These things can be tricky so keep your patience and you'll get it going!!! Good luck!!!