Starter Removal Secrets?
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Starter Removal Secrets?
Greetings,
I'm in the process of removing my 5.4l 3-valve from my F150 and getting the starter out is getting to be a bit of a bear.
The shop manual shows 3 bolts holding the thing in, two of which I removed easlily, however the last one is on the top side and is not even visible yet alone accessible and I have almost run out of things to try to get at it. I guess my hands are just too big or I need to take yoga lessons in order to bend my arm around the sway bar and exhaust pipe to get a wrench on it.
Anyone got any secrets they are willing to share?
Doug
I'm in the process of removing my 5.4l 3-valve from my F150 and getting the starter out is getting to be a bit of a bear.
The shop manual shows 3 bolts holding the thing in, two of which I removed easlily, however the last one is on the top side and is not even visible yet alone accessible and I have almost run out of things to try to get at it. I guess my hands are just too big or I need to take yoga lessons in order to bend my arm around the sway bar and exhaust pipe to get a wrench on it.
Anyone got any secrets they are willing to share?
Doug
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Gevans17,
You said it, lots and LOTS of patience!
I did manage to get the top bolt out, once I was able to get my hand up there to feel where the darn thing was (the skin is growing back nicely), I found out that it was recessed into the flange on the block.
A 1/4" drive 13mm (I think) socket and a couple of long extensions took care of it in short order and I didn't have to remove the wheel well.
Unlike getting the last Bell Houseing bolt out, which necessitated removing the exhaust extension pipe to relocate the CAT out of the way, but that is a different storey...
Cheers,
Doug
You said it, lots and LOTS of patience!
I did manage to get the top bolt out, once I was able to get my hand up there to feel where the darn thing was (the skin is growing back nicely), I found out that it was recessed into the flange on the block.
A 1/4" drive 13mm (I think) socket and a couple of long extensions took care of it in short order and I didn't have to remove the wheel well.
Unlike getting the last Bell Houseing bolt out, which necessitated removing the exhaust extension pipe to relocate the CAT out of the way, but that is a different storey...
Cheers,
Doug
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So do you think if I can change a starter, then I can change my own spark plugs? Thats the next challenge from my friends at Ford.
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Gevans17,
Kind of two different things, but I would say if you have the ability to swap out a starter, plug replacement should be difficult.
I replaced the plugs on the "new" engine before I am putting it in, just becasue it is way, WAY easier to do with the engine out of the truck.
Just follow the TSB directions and you shouldn't have any problems. I am tempted to pull a plug on my old engine, which has almost 80,000 miles on it to see how difficult it will be compared to the replacement one, which has around 10,000 miles on it. Maybe after I get the truck buttoned up again and I have some free time. If I screw up the head or shap of a plug on the old engine, no big deal...
Doug
Kind of two different things, but I would say if you have the ability to swap out a starter, plug replacement should be difficult.
I replaced the plugs on the "new" engine before I am putting it in, just becasue it is way, WAY easier to do with the engine out of the truck.
Just follow the TSB directions and you shouldn't have any problems. I am tempted to pull a plug on my old engine, which has almost 80,000 miles on it to see how difficult it will be compared to the replacement one, which has around 10,000 miles on it. Maybe after I get the truck buttoned up again and I have some free time. If I screw up the head or shap of a plug on the old engine, no big deal...
Doug
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Originally Posted by Doogie S
Greetings,
I'm in the process of removing my 5.4l 3-valve from my F150 and getting the starter out is getting to be a bit of a bear.
The shop manual shows 3 bolts holding the thing in, two of which I removed easlily, however the last one is on the top side and is not even visible yet alone accessible and I have almost run out of things to try to get at it. I guess my hands are just too big or I need to take yoga lessons in order to bend my arm around the sway bar and exhaust pipe to get a wrench on it.
Anyone got any secrets they are willing to share?
Doug
I'm in the process of removing my 5.4l 3-valve from my F150 and getting the starter out is getting to be a bit of a bear.
The shop manual shows 3 bolts holding the thing in, two of which I removed easlily, however the last one is on the top side and is not even visible yet alone accessible and I have almost run out of things to try to get at it. I guess my hands are just too big or I need to take yoga lessons in order to bend my arm around the sway bar and exhaust pipe to get a wrench on it.
Anyone got any secrets they are willing to share?
Doug
Your removing your engine so early on your truck, whats wrong with it?
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bri687,
It dropped a valve into the cylinder. Not an unknown problem according to a Ford Parts person I talked to at a local dealership, as it has been known to happen before.
The cam is scored badly and looks like it wore the rocker arm down till it let go and took the keeper off the top of the valve, which dropped into the running engine. The rest, they say, is history.
The truck had regular oil changes every 5,000km. The truck is still worth a bit, so I decided to replace the engine myself rather than let Ford do it. No chance of Ford covering this either, as the truck has almost 135,000km. Ford wanted over $10K for the job, I am doing the work with a replacement (used) engine from a 2005 (15,000km when it was T-boned) for under $3K all in, including plug replacement, new belts, gaskets, etc... (not including headers and new exhaust system).
Needless to say, the job is a bit*h to do given the limited clearances and tight spaces, but I should have it on the road by the end of the week.
Doug
It dropped a valve into the cylinder. Not an unknown problem according to a Ford Parts person I talked to at a local dealership, as it has been known to happen before.
The cam is scored badly and looks like it wore the rocker arm down till it let go and took the keeper off the top of the valve, which dropped into the running engine. The rest, they say, is history.
The truck had regular oil changes every 5,000km. The truck is still worth a bit, so I decided to replace the engine myself rather than let Ford do it. No chance of Ford covering this either, as the truck has almost 135,000km. Ford wanted over $10K for the job, I am doing the work with a replacement (used) engine from a 2005 (15,000km when it was T-boned) for under $3K all in, including plug replacement, new belts, gaskets, etc... (not including headers and new exhaust system).
Needless to say, the job is a bit*h to do given the limited clearances and tight spaces, but I should have it on the road by the end of the week.
Doug
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Originally Posted by Doogie S
bri687,
It dropped a valve into the cylinder. Not an unknown problem according to a Ford Parts person I talked to at a local dealership, as it has been known to happen before.
The cam is scored badly and looks like it wore the rocker arm down till it let go and took the keeper off the top of the valve, which dropped into the running engine. The rest, they say, is history.
The truck had regular oil changes every 5,000km. The truck is still worth a bit, so I decided to replace the engine myself rather than let Ford do it. No chance of Ford covering this either, as the truck has almost 135,000km. Ford wanted over $10K for the job, I am doing the work with a replacement (used) engine from a 2005 (15,000km when it was T-boned) for under $3K all in, including plug replacement, new belts, gaskets, etc... (not including headers and new exhaust system).
Needless to say, the job is a bit*h to do given the limited clearances and tight spaces, but I should have it on the road by the end of the week.
Doug
It dropped a valve into the cylinder. Not an unknown problem according to a Ford Parts person I talked to at a local dealership, as it has been known to happen before.
The cam is scored badly and looks like it wore the rocker arm down till it let go and took the keeper off the top of the valve, which dropped into the running engine. The rest, they say, is history.
The truck had regular oil changes every 5,000km. The truck is still worth a bit, so I decided to replace the engine myself rather than let Ford do it. No chance of Ford covering this either, as the truck has almost 135,000km. Ford wanted over $10K for the job, I am doing the work with a replacement (used) engine from a 2005 (15,000km when it was T-boned) for under $3K all in, including plug replacement, new belts, gaskets, etc... (not including headers and new exhaust system).
Needless to say, the job is a bit*h to do given the limited clearances and tight spaces, but I should have it on the road by the end of the week.
Doug
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I know you got the starter out,too late for this post...but, I have used a couple of 10" extensions with a universal and go in from the front. Might have to pull AC comp out of way. This has worked on Crown Vics.
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GLR,
It's definitely a job from down under for the new F150's, as there is precious little room from the top on the passenger side.
The starter went back in a lot easier than it came out, especially once you figure out how to get that top bolt out. It still took a bit of wiggling to get the bolt back into the hole, as you are working blind, but overall it went in pretty smoothly. It helps a lot that these new starters are about half the size and weight of the old ones.
()smoke() - Thanks for the support! I figured while I have free access to the engine, why not put the headers on now rather than later, and I am glad I did. I would think given the tight clearances around the engine, this job would be a royal PITA to do with the engine in the truck.
Doug
It's definitely a job from down under for the new F150's, as there is precious little room from the top on the passenger side.
The starter went back in a lot easier than it came out, especially once you figure out how to get that top bolt out. It still took a bit of wiggling to get the bolt back into the hole, as you are working blind, but overall it went in pretty smoothly. It helps a lot that these new starters are about half the size and weight of the old ones.
()smoke() - Thanks for the support! I figured while I have free access to the engine, why not put the headers on now rather than later, and I am glad I did. I would think given the tight clearances around the engine, this job would be a royal PITA to do with the engine in the truck.
Doug
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From: Eastern Ky.
yes GLR has the right ideal and allso I've used a small shorty wrench before and gotten them out before and allso it's easier to use 1/4" drive tools allso but they should be quilty like mac or snap on since these bolts are tight if they've not been out before . It's allso the allmost same sittuation on the cars with the 4.6s & 5.4s we allways said ( 30 mins to remove the trans and 2 hours for the starter LOL.
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