I cleaned off the engine on my '86, had 3 injectors (return line o-rings) leaking bad enough to drip, and found what I figure is the original injection pump and injectors, both painted gray, although the return lines themselves look new. Anyway, even though this truck runs much stronger than my '85, seems to be missing, after reading numerous threads about life of pump and injectors, decided that 172,000 miles was enough, and ordered pump and matching injectors, lift pump and return line kit. Taking it very slowly, was relatively uneventful afternoon, except the rear injector driver's side came out in pieces. Was able to retrieve everything except lower sleeve and copper seat. After cleaning up the upper part, seems to have come unscrewed (?) not broken, but have tried magnets, tried to screw upper body into detached sleeve, even borrowed an ez-out, and lastly tried to blow it out by cranking the engine, all to no avail. Doesn't seem to move, any good ideas to remove? Lots of soot and some oil on several cylinders, others seem very clean. Anything to be deduced by appearance of sooty injectors? Not really desperate, (I do have another truck) but very anxious to see improvement in my toy.

 

The same happened to me on my 86, except it was the rear 2 injectors on the passinger side.

With help of my next door neighbour, we tapped the injector sleeve, installed a bolt, sprayed it down with a few different type of lubercants. Waited over night [tried right away for a couple hours but wouldn't budge].

The real trick is to some how leveredge the tapped-bolt-injector out....what I did was, use a steel pipe with a notch cut out at the end, wide enough for the shank of the bolt to fit but small enough so the head of the bolt will pass thru. Use wood blocking so not dammage any parts of the engine....of course longer the pipe, greater the leverage, hope this helps.

 

Grind the block threads off the top part of the injector, then screw it back together and screw it in that direction to break it free.....

Do not drop carbon and fluids into the cylinder it can cause hydro lock.....

 

Has anyone tried an inside pipe wrench, when this problem occures

 

I got it out, and everything is great! I tried a combination of techniques, grinding the head threads off old injector top, put a long box wrench end over top of injector body, with washer and nut, wood block as a fulcrum, and tapped it out. The copper washer was still in, found a long bolt to screw into middle, pulled it out, cranked engine a few times to blow out foreign material, finished hooking up lines--Viola!! Started right up. Filled new fuel filter with Diesel Kleen, lots of smoke at first, but eventually died down and seems to run fine. I will drive across town today, give it a good wringing out, but leaks (and overpowering smell of diesel) are gone. And the annoying miss is gone, too, smooth as glass. Now that engine is cleaner, will begin to look for leaks, although engine oil level has stabilized since oil change/CDR service is completed. Thanks to all for the little victories!!

 

Now, while the engine is running. Take some non flamable penetrating oil, and squirt it on the threads of each inj. If you see any bubbling, the copper gasket is NOT sealing. It will ruin the inj in very short order.

 

is there a tourqe value on the injectors?

 

Thanks fonefiddy for the check on the in jectors, I will give that a shot today. I got the 35 ftlb injector torque value from this forum hope I got it right.

Truck ran great yesterday, easily reaching about 85 MPH before I shut it down and cruised at 65 for about 20 miles. Not a hint of smoke, until I got off the freeway, and noticed I was fogging mosquitoes, and the truck was running like crap. When I pulled over, one of my new plastic return line caps had blown out, looked like it had been shot out with a BB gun, from the inside, spewing diesel all over the driver's side of engine compartment. An easy fix, just replaced with one of the original caps I just took off. Is this an indication of a problem, or just a bad cap?

After sitting about 7 hours, it started right up, without cycling glowplugs, unheard of with this truck, even with the hole in the return line cap. It's not even cold here, about 45 degrees at midnight, when I started it up, but it hasn't started without ether (or glowplugs, since I got them working) since I got it, after sitting for 1-2 hours. I'm impressed.

 

may i ask where you got your injectors i need a set now.

 

I'd investigate that injector further. Was there any black looking crud on the cap? Are you sure that you got the old copper washer out of that hole?

 

I just got home, will investigate further tomorrow, after I spend some good, well-deserved time with my Valentine. I did notice some debris inside the cap, extending into the return line. I did take the time to be sure and remove all copper washers, and all the little pieces of the disassembled injector, but there was considerable crud (mostly soot, nothing hard, that I could see) on several of the old injectors. The problem all seems to be on the driver's bank, it is still running rough, obviously missing on at least one cylinder, and the return line on that side is under enough pressure you can see it move. The other side, you can feel movement if you hold onto it, but the problem side feels very harsh. Seems that something is clogging the circuit, maybe a stuck or clogged injector? Anyway, that whole side comes off and inspected. Boy, it sure was nice for a few hours.


I got the pump, injectors, lift pump, installation kit and return line kit from Midwest Fuel Injection. Very prompt, still took a few days due to UPS Ground, but I was in no particular hurry. Was concerned with quality of return line kit, when the cap blew out, but now think there is another problem. Otherwise, very prompt and reasonably priced. Injectors are new Delphi, bought pump and injectors together to be matched. About $30 each, local NAPA wants $56 each for rebuilt, and has to special order anyway.

 

I don't think that the injectors are sealed to the heads.

Do that penetrating oil test on um.