83 body work
83 body work
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: cedar rapids Ia
Hi I live in Ia so we have lots of rust, some of the panels you can make depending on what they are but I have found that you can buy the panels so cheap that its easier to buy them, if you have a little spot on the front of the cab corner make a piece to go over the spot 1/2 in or so I put it on there and out line it then cut it out and you can weld or riviot
but if the spot is bigger you can buy new cab cornners for about 25.00 floors 55.00
if the spot is pretty flat you can make your own pretty easy, but if its rounded its easier to buy new. if you try to just bondo over it will just rust back threw and never look right
I do this almost everyday right now I have 3 truck Im dealing with if you need help I can try
but if the spot is bigger you can buy new cab cornners for about 25.00 floors 55.00
if the spot is pretty flat you can make your own pretty easy, but if its rounded its easier to buy new. if you try to just bondo over it will just rust back threw and never look right
I do this almost everyday right now I have 3 truck Im dealing with if you need help I can try
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: cedar rapids Ia
bed can be costly they make every part for the box to replace the rusted parts from just the wheel well openings to the whole side, the cab is pretty easy the parts to fix are pretty cheap I just put ds floor, 2 cab corners on my 84 stepside it was under 100.00. the floor 30x19 was 54.00 I got the cab corners for around 37.50 for both
I have a box I'm getting ready to do so I just checked on the parts
ebay, lmconline.com there are a lot of places that have the parts cheap check this site I'm new so I dont know yet but I'm sure they have some place
I have a box I'm getting ready to do so I just checked on the parts
ebay, lmconline.com there are a lot of places that have the parts cheap check this site I'm new so I dont know yet but I'm sure they have some place
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Check the seams at the rain Gutters above the door. Where the roof of the cab meets the A and B pillars. If you see any cracks in the metal or cracks in the caulking, remove the old caulking from the seams and replace it with new Automotive body sealer caulking.
What happens is the old caulk cracks and water leaks inside the A or B pillars causing the cab corners to rust out, or the floor.
Not very easy to see a leak with trucks with the carpeted rear storage area and rear molding.
If the leaks are not stopped the new patch panels can also rust out.
Hope this helps....
What happens is the old caulk cracks and water leaks inside the A or B pillars causing the cab corners to rust out, or the floor.
Not very easy to see a leak with trucks with the carpeted rear storage area and rear molding.
If the leaks are not stopped the new patch panels can also rust out.
Hope this helps....
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 1
Im betting your float on your sender unit came off. Happened to both of mine. If that is the case have fun finding a new one. Took me almost 3 years to find a new sender unit cause you cant just get the float. Either that or the sender isnt getting electricity but more than likely its not that.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
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From: TN
what bout just bypassing the selecting valve and running all the wiring for a new gauge on just one tank?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by Redneck1465
Took me almost 3 years to find a new sender unit cause you cant just get the float.
Ford stocked Floats two years ago. Bought one for my 1972. $12 dollars.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by petz_83_f100
what bout just bypassing the selecting valve and running all the wiring for a new gauge on just one tank?
It does not have anything to do with the fuel gauge. so bypassing it would do no good.
You already have a topic open for the fuel gauge elsewhere, it would be helpful to keep the fuel gauge inquiries in one spot to avoid possible confusion.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,971
Likes: 2,731
From: Virginia
The switch in the dash does have something to do with the fuel gauge though. It selects which sending unit is hooked to the gauge. Mine starting going bad, and I could take the dash switch and move it up and down quickly and it would start reading ok again for a few months. This is after I already had taken out the rear tank and bypassed the fuel solenoid on the frame.
The problem kept coming back though, so I ended up taking the switch out, jumping the wires on the back to bypass it, and then just reinstalling it to fill the hole up.
If you want to do a test, take the wire off the gas tank, and with the key in run, ground the wire at the tank, and then unground it. The guage should swing full scale back and forth when you do this. If it does, the gauge, switch and wiring are ok, and there is something wrong in the gas tank with the sending unit.
The problem kept coming back though, so I ended up taking the switch out, jumping the wires on the back to bypass it, and then just reinstalling it to fill the hole up.
If you want to do a test, take the wire off the gas tank, and with the key in run, ground the wire at the tank, and then unground it. The guage should swing full scale back and forth when you do this. If it does, the gauge, switch and wiring are ok, and there is something wrong in the gas tank with the sending unit.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
The most likely, It's either the switch, the wiring to the switch, or the gauge.
It could also be that both sending units are bad too.
You need to do the tests that I posted on the other thread to find out which.
It could also be that both sending units are bad too.
You need to do the tests that I posted on the other thread to find out which.