Problem Problem Problem
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Problem Problem Problem
Hi everyone,
I am new but have done all my own vehicle work for years. I have had a problem with this 89 Bronco XLT, 5.0 (302), AOD for some time now. It stalls whenever you start to apply the brakes and when put into reverse. I took it to a Ford shop and was charged $400.00 for them to tell me absolutely nothing. They said it was my main brain. They would replace it but as they no longer make that part they wanted to charge me $600.00 for a used one from a junkyard and no warranty. I took it to a shop and they diagnosed it with EGR problems. Since then I have replaced the PCM, EGR, EVP, IAC (Idle Air Control), TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), Pickup coil and module on distributor, Alternator, Water pump (not that that has anything to do with my problem), MAP, ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor), even the vaacuum module that is hooked up to the EGR valve, Fuel Filter and it still comes up with codes for my EGR. I am just about to take a sledge to this but am still trying to figure it out. My wife loves the vehicle but I am at wits end. I have spent over $1,200.00 and it still stalls when applying brakes and even when going into reverse. Once in awhile it will shift radically like trying to go from 3rd to 2nd to 3rd real fast like jumping from one gear to another. Does anyone have a clue as to what it may be?
knightwarp@lycos.com
I am new but have done all my own vehicle work for years. I have had a problem with this 89 Bronco XLT, 5.0 (302), AOD for some time now. It stalls whenever you start to apply the brakes and when put into reverse. I took it to a Ford shop and was charged $400.00 for them to tell me absolutely nothing. They said it was my main brain. They would replace it but as they no longer make that part they wanted to charge me $600.00 for a used one from a junkyard and no warranty. I took it to a shop and they diagnosed it with EGR problems. Since then I have replaced the PCM, EGR, EVP, IAC (Idle Air Control), TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), Pickup coil and module on distributor, Alternator, Water pump (not that that has anything to do with my problem), MAP, ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor), even the vaacuum module that is hooked up to the EGR valve, Fuel Filter and it still comes up with codes for my EGR. I am just about to take a sledge to this but am still trying to figure it out. My wife loves the vehicle but I am at wits end. I have spent over $1,200.00 and it still stalls when applying brakes and even when going into reverse. Once in awhile it will shift radically like trying to go from 3rd to 2nd to 3rd real fast like jumping from one gear to another. Does anyone have a clue as to what it may be?
knightwarp@lycos.com
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Stock
I run Bosch Platinum +2, I also use Bosch Platinum wires and yes the motor is stock. The timing was done 2 weeks ago by a mechanic friend I know who charged me off time price to help me out. The truck runs strong and just today I replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator, Coil, (which was causing my tach to flutter), and an oxygen sensor. I still have that stupid check engine light. I will give it the weekend to see if it is going to stall again. I cleared the codes and whatever is making the check engine light on is still not fixed. My nxt move is to check for any vacuum leaks.The only sensors I have not replaced are 2 vacuum modules next to the coil, the anti knock sensor. That about covers what I haven't replaced. So any ideas where to go next? I will repost if all goes well/bad this weekend to keep people up to date. Any advice is always more than welcome and appreciated.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: washington the state
I work in a shop and have seen probelms running plat plugs in older vehicles w/out coil on plug ignitions was told its because plat and other heavy metals take more voltage to spark than the older ignitions can do. Dont know if that part is true but I have definitly seen plat 2 plugs cause problems.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Coweta,GA, GO DAWGS!!!!!!
My '91 f-150 went haywire on me 2 years ago. It threw every code you can think of at me, after replacing almost every sensor on the truck the problem was still there. Went to dealer and bought a new ecm($250). Problem solved and runs great. About the plugs bosch makes a great product but I'd put in a set of autolites' and call it a day.let us know.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: washington the state
just talked to my lead tech he just encounterd this problem turnrd out to be the pickups in dist
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Dwoodler—I found out they made 75 different ECM’s for these Broncos and there are 25 possible for mine. The ECM is based on what options you have as to which one you can use. But thanks for the offer. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o
></o>
Abnormloffrd—I have run Bosch platinum in this truck since I got it and it ran great. I just replaced the coil yesterday something I hadn’t done since I owned the truck 5 years ago. And I just recently replaced the pick up coil and the TFI module on the distributor.
ag30265—I used to use A/C Delco plugs but they just didn’t seem to last as long though I am going to change the plugs again and also the wires again just to see if maybe one of those is bad. I will try the autolites though. I have asked people and it seems a lot of people use champion plugs which I found out was a 50/50 shot if they actually worked as they are at the lower end of the plugs to use. Thanks everyone for the help and I am going to keep working on this until the check engine light goes out.
fficeffice" /><o></o>Abnormloffrd—I have run Bosch platinum in this truck since I got it and it ran great. I just replaced the coil yesterday something I hadn’t done since I owned the truck 5 years ago. And I just recently replaced the pick up coil and the TFI module on the distributor.
ag30265—I used to use A/C Delco plugs but they just didn’t seem to last as long though I am going to change the plugs again and also the wires again just to see if maybe one of those is bad. I will try the autolites though. I have asked people and it seems a lot of people use champion plugs which I found out was a 50/50 shot if they actually worked as they are at the lower end of the plugs to use. Thanks everyone for the help and I am going to keep working on this until the check engine light goes out.
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Well the weekend is over and my truck ran great for a couple of days and my truck still stalls out but I believe it is a vacuum leak. I have decided to locate a brand new set of vacuum hoses and replace them all as I don't think they were intended to last for over 200,000 miles. Now the hard part is trying to find a set that are color coded and pre bent hard plastic hoses. But thanks to everyone here.
Terry
Terry
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From: Central PA
Good luck on hoses . Have had/read 6 post in last month . My 93 f150 are crumbling toast. but my 94 's look like new and has more miles. So they are out there. No one has stated a non used place to get them. Wrecking yard are out since they cut everything in sight. good luck on line search
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 14,285
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From: Bend,OR
the plats are a waste honestly and dont run well in our rigs for what ever reason.
ford 9mm wires, motorcraft or autolite copper plugs, set base timing with spout connector out to 12*btdc. you havent touched the idle screw on the throttle body have you? are you getting any codes at all. you seem to be replacing parts for an unkown cause. whats your fuel pressure at the rail. if you had a vacum leak the idle would be hi and surging. did you replace your fuel filter . and when does the rig wanna die? is it while driving after a while? could be a bad tfi module as well
ford 9mm wires, motorcraft or autolite copper plugs, set base timing with spout connector out to 12*btdc. you havent touched the idle screw on the throttle body have you? are you getting any codes at all. you seem to be replacing parts for an unkown cause. whats your fuel pressure at the rail. if you had a vacum leak the idle would be hi and surging. did you replace your fuel filter . and when does the rig wanna die? is it while driving after a while? could be a bad tfi module as well
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
When Ford went to computers, they went to Calibration Codes. Without the code, it can be a b!tch to look up the correct parts. If someone installed an EGR valve on your truck because it RESEMBLED the old one, that could the problem. I've seen it before...people say..."Oh that's the one, it looks just like it!"
WRONG! The original valves had numbers on them, but that means little to a parts house. there are literally 1000's of EGR valves.
Post your calibration code here...there should be a sticker on the core support. If the sticker is missing, need to know where truck was sold new, engine type...and maybe more.
ECM's..there may be 25 possibles..but if you have the calibration code..only one will be listed..the right one!
WRONG! The original valves had numbers on them, but that means little to a parts house. there are literally 1000's of EGR valves.
Post your calibration code here...there should be a sticker on the core support. If the sticker is missing, need to know where truck was sold new, engine type...and maybe more.
ECM's..there may be 25 possibles..but if you have the calibration code..only one will be listed..the right one!
Last edited by NumberDummy; Feb 13, 2007 at 09:31 AM.