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So whats the verdict? It seems that everyone has a different opinion about using tranny fluid in the crank case? Is it a yay or nay? Can you get that Seafoam stuff at Napa?
The ATF added to the fuel to clean the injection system was an old way of doing it.
That was from back in the days of high sulphur fuel and no addatives like Diesel Kleen.
A couple quarts of type F fluid cleaned the wax and other deposits out of the fuel system.
ATF is an excellent cleaner, have you ever seen an automatic tranny torn down that was dirty inside? I never have.
But today, running type F ATF which is red, could get you busted for runnig off road fuel, stiff fine.
Also the modern addatives do a much better job of providing lubrication and cleaning deposits out of the fuel system, and they are cheaper than ATF.
ATF is not an old wives tale, but it is very outdated and obsolete.
As far as adding it to the engine oil, I can see no problems, but I would not want to be working the engine hard while it was in there.
Also if the engine had high mileage, you may want to do it in small increments close to your oil change for the first few times.
No sence in having the oil filter blocked with goop it broke loose while you are running down the road.
You may also develope some oil leaks after you run it for a while, the deposits may be what is keeping the oil in the engine now.
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Feb 9, 2007 at 07:26 PM.
Iam new to Diesel trucks, but been working on Antique Diesel Tractors for 45 years. MMO attacks the carbon build up, soaking in and softing it until its gone! Been using it since 1960 on both gas and Diesel..Excellent STUFF!!
I have used ATF in both Diesel and Gas with oil change, about 1pint per 8 quartsof oil, besides cleaning it will also keep seals soft. An old old trick used by the Rotary Engine builders to keep the compression seals soft under high temps!
I have used ATF in both Diesel and Gas with oil change, about 1pint per 8 quartsof oil, besides cleaning it will also keep seals soft. An old old trick used by the Rotary Engine builders to keep the compression seals soft under high temps!
1994 Ford F-350 7.3 IDIT
Those compression seals in the rotary engine are iron. There's no softness to them. This is shown by the chatter marks they leave as they skitter across the chromium coating on the housing after extended times above 8000 RPM. (They also make carbon and polymer seals that are soft for race engines that make usable power up past 12K RPM.)
Thing is, they slide in grooves and are held against the combustion chamber wall by spring tension like so:
If they were to get covered in carbon and crud (Which is entirely possible since we also inject a bit of crankcase oil into the combustion chamber to lubricate them.) they'd quit moving, necessitating an engine teardown.
The detergents in ATF or better yet MMO are good for breaking down the carbon in an old or long sitting engine.
Living in Mexico I don't have access to all the additives available in the States so I guess Tranny fluid will do.
I understand that the diesel here is very high in sulphur, true?
I understood the old 60's rotarys used some sort of nylon material or neopreme, but I don't remember. I always used the ATF with good results, but your right that the MMO would be better I'm sure!
I have used ATF in both Diesel and Gas with oil change, about 1pint per 8 quartsof oil, besides cleaning it will also keep seals soft.
When I was much younger, I used to mix all kinds of oil, usually just different brands. Every couple of years, I'd have a motor self destruct. One day, I stopped for gas and was a quart low. I put in a quart of the station's brand. After driving about a block, the oil light came on...every drop of oil had leaked out. I bought four more quarts from another station and went on my way without any problems.
Thats when I decided to leave chemistry to the Chemists and stick with one brand and no other aditives. Haven't had an oil-related problem since.
Last edited by tbone91; Feb 10, 2007 at 02:42 PM.
Reason: bad grammar
There seem to be two schools of though on sticking with one brand of oil.
1) stick with the same brand forever (what I do).
2) switch between a few select brands periodically.
The theory behind changing periodically is that staying with one brand could lead to build up of crud/varnish/sludge/whatever, and that each type of oil may clean up from the others. I don't have any problem with this theory or practice as long as the switch is made at a complete oil change. But, mixing things together is asking for trouble IMHO. There's just too much research behind modern oils to think that I can do any better.
Of course, this thread was origionally about fuel additives. I agree with Dave that it's probably best to stick with a modern additive specifically for diesel engines. Hate to see anyone burn up an IP for no real reason. Just my $0.02.
Hi CornKing! Yes, diesel in Mexico is the good old hi-sulfur stuff we used to get! Great fuel, great lubricity. Lucky you! This is one reason I wanted an old truck [beside being kinda' poor], I can run to Mexico for a few months at a time, after I retire and not worry about fuel issues...or maintenance issues. I have often used transmission fluid as a flushing agent on my engines, before oil changes. It is high detergent, low visc. oil and as such, isn't suitable for long term use.
My engine has been apart for over a year now and to keep it rust free i used acid brushes to paint ATF all over it.. well i had my little helper do it while i dii other stuff! I'll try to get some pics?
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