Valve Spring Question
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From: St. Libory
Valve Spring Question
Hi all,
While tearing down my 390 I found that I do in fact have double valve springs on it. I have no information about them at all, only that they are painted yellow. Does anyone know anything about these springs and if they'll withstand the Comp 280H cam? This appears to be a Ford remanufactured engine, because absolutley everything is stamped with "FoMoCo". This engine was installed in the early to mid 70's if that makes any difference. I'm quite curious as I saw these same springs while pulling my intake in the junkyard. Would I be better off to get new ones even if none of them are weak?
Thanks,
-Jake
While tearing down my 390 I found that I do in fact have double valve springs on it. I have no information about them at all, only that they are painted yellow. Does anyone know anything about these springs and if they'll withstand the Comp 280H cam? This appears to be a Ford remanufactured engine, because absolutley everything is stamped with "FoMoCo". This engine was installed in the early to mid 70's if that makes any difference. I'm quite curious as I saw these same springs while pulling my intake in the junkyard. Would I be better off to get new ones even if none of them are weak?
Thanks,
-Jake
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From: Newbury Park Ca.
When checking them for "weakness" you will be checking installed height seat pressure. The same piece of equipment will tell you what the tension is at full lift of the replacement cam, and increments between the two. Compare those numbers to what the cam manufacturer reccomends and you'll have your answer. But, the cost of a set of springs is low compared to a flat new cam and damaged lifters. There are a couple of threads here about that. Step up, buy the "kit" with the cam...........aMP
PS: the inners are probably dampners, not actual springs.......
PS: the inners are probably dampners, not actual springs.......
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From: St. Libory
The cam and lifters come in the rebuild kit I'm getting. If I need springs, I'd have to buy them seperatly. I'm trying to get everything on one order since I can order pretty much whatever I need from the same place as my rebuild kit, so I'll check them before I order my kit. I was just wondering if anyone knew anything about them because I didn't think you could get double springs on a truck motor.
-Jake
EDIT - I just caught the very last part of your post. Can anyone else verify this as well? If this is the case then it probably doesn't even matter as I'll be needing new ones anyway!!!!
-Jake
EDIT - I just caught the very last part of your post. Can anyone else verify this as well? If this is the case then it probably doesn't even matter as I'll be needing new ones anyway!!!!
Last edited by jseim44; Feb 7, 2007 at 09:53 PM.
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From: Newbury Park Ca.
If the existing springs are with in the range of the camshaft they will probably work. The inners are just vibration dampners and I don't think they wear out. The trick is to know the reccomended springs and their rate of compression. Differently heat treated springs have different rates as they compress. The wrong pressure, specificly too much any where in the cam cycle can cause premature cam failure, especially during the critical break in period.......If it is a fairly mild RV type cam and the existing springs meet seat pressure and full open specs you should be OK.......Be sure to keep the shims with the springs they were under unless you are getting a valve job. In that case the assembler should shim them accuratly to attain installed height......aMP
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From: Newbury Park Ca.
Same vendor.....
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
It's not worth screwing around with old springs, buy new.
For the cost of a wasted motor due to a broken spring you
do the math.
For the cost of a wasted motor due to a broken spring you
do the math.
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
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From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Yep Agreed with Carl and Pit.... Take out the Old "dont know" how many miles on them springs...and I can gaurantee that those springs will be know where the seat and nose presussures need to be with that 280h cam...
Save yourself alot of heartache...Trash em..and buy the manufacture's recommended springs..and be done with messing around with it... Dont be penny wise and dollar foolish!! JMO..
RJ
Save yourself alot of heartache...Trash em..and buy the manufacture's recommended springs..and be done with messing around with it... Dont be penny wise and dollar foolish!! JMO..
RJ
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From: Long Island USA
I agree... change all the stuff - cheap insurance. If that thing was sitting with any valve springs compressed for 30 years, there's no reason to keep them 
Besides the fact you are no longer going to use them, when you look at the smaller inner valve spring, is it made out of flat stock, or round? If it looks like a piece of sheet metal cut and formed into a coil, that's the damper.
Besides the fact you are no longer going to use them, when you look at the smaller inner valve spring, is it made out of flat stock, or round? If it looks like a piece of sheet metal cut and formed into a coil, that's the damper.
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From: St. Libory
That's kind of what I expected to hear. I will most likely get the spring pressures checked tomorrow (since this is a class at school we have to through all the steps). I'll order the recomended springs when I order everything else then.
To answer Krewrat's question - it looks like they are just flat stock that's been coiled up. I wasn't really sure about what exactly I had so I naturally just wanted to learn more......and I have. Thanks again guys!!!!
-Jake
To answer Krewrat's question - it looks like they are just flat stock that's been coiled up. I wasn't really sure about what exactly I had so I naturally just wanted to learn more......and I have. Thanks again guys!!!!
-Jake
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From: Long Island USA
Yep, those are the dampers - they keep the springs from "ringing" or banging off the seats. They are setup to resonate at a different frequency than the main spring, cancelling out any reverberation...
Keep us informed on how the build goes...
Keep us informed on how the build goes...
!["Beemer Nut"'s Avatar](data:image/svg+xml;utf8,<svg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 50 50'><circle class='avatar-circle-default' fill='%23bc5285' cx='25px' cy='25px' r='20px'></circle><text class='avatar-text-default' x='49%' y='53%' fill='white' text-anchor='middle' alignment-baseline='middle'>"</text></svg>)
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From: "Islander"
Unless your going to spin the motor hard I wouldn't go for high seat pressures, your valves, seats, lifters and cam will last longer. Use what your cam manufacture recommends.
What works for me without having any cam/lifter failures is to apply Red Line's assembly lube on cam and lifter face.
What works for me without having any cam/lifter failures is to apply Red Line's assembly lube on cam and lifter face.