Has anyone bought one of the units from ebay. Look home made, but not to bad.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Auxil...spagenameZWDVW

 

Screw that, give me $55 and spend the other $10 at radio shack. Here you go...

AIC MOD

by Sparky
Ok to start off with you will have to go to Radio Shack or similar store and get some parts.

Single Pole Single Throw Switch. Radio Shack pt# 275-612
5K Linear Taper Potentiometer. Radio Shack pt# 271-1714
Linear PART # for the 2K is Radio Shack pt# 900-8587
2 Single Pole Double Throw Auto Relays Radio Shack pt# 900-2391
2 Wiring Harness Plugs Radio Shack pt# 900-2396
18 Gauge Wire
SOLDER
Wire Ties
Butt Connectors
Soldering Gun
Safety Glasses

STEP 1 Switches

Find a power source that is with the key.
Run a wire from there to one side of the switch.
From the other side of the switch run a wire to the coil terminal of both relays
From the other side coil terminals on the relays run a wire to the parking break switch wire. (There is only one wire on the parking brake.)

STEP 2 Idle Validation Switch (IVS)

As you look at the throttle pedal you will see a switch on the left side with 2 wires going to it. The wires are taped together carefully un-tape them so you can work with the wires. I used a razor knife to cut the tape, but be careful not to cut the wires. (There should be a red/orange with and a brown wire, unless they changed the color code of these wires.)

Cut the red/orange wire leaving plenty on the switch side so that you can splice onto it. The red/orange wire that is going into the wire bundle needs to get hooked to the common side of one of the relays.

The other red/orange (the one attached to the IVS) goes to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay. Now take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) and run it over to the brown wire by the IVS, you will just tap onto this wire so you don’t need to cut it. Just take some of the insulation off and solder it on, then tape her back up.

STEP 3 The other Relay and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is located on top of the pedal and has 3 wires going to it. Remove the tape to expose the wires. (There should be a brown/white wire and a gray/white wire.)

Cut the brown/white wire, leaving enough to work with by the switch. Hook the end up that goes back into the wire bundle to the common side of the other relay.

Take the side that goes to the switch and hook it to the NORMALLY CLOSED CONTACT (NC) of the relay.

Take a wire from the NORMALLY OPEN CONTACT (NO) of the relay and go to the left terminal on the POT.

Now take a wire from the center terminal of the POT and tap it into the gray/white wire.

Tape up all the bare wires and enjoy

 

I'd rather have the actual ford aic, but then again I like to watch the lcd display If you watch you can find them cheap enuf, I spent $100 on my first one, wating to find another at a good price. Lately people are going nuts with bidding wars

 

I have never seen a ford aic in action. What do they do besides show the rpm on the display?

 

my ford unit has rpm control, you have 4 programmable rpm presets. A charge protect buttom that keeps battery voltage up for when youre running power accessories or jump starting someone. You can also get them with a PTO control.

 

pud, is yours the displayless one? Mine has the pto control, etc. The display shows the rpm's also the volts. Which is real nice when running the winch.

 

mine has the backlit display. Just shows rpms when on RPM Control, or driving. Shows the voltage when on Charge Protect.

 

I like the Radio Shack version $. Will the Ford AIC work on a 94.5. Most seem to say 96-up.