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My RABS valve went bad 2 years ago and it caused my rear brakes to lock up.
I took it to the dealer and they first said the rabs module was bad. After they replaced the around $500 module my brakes(rear) would still lock up so I took it back and they had to replace the RABS valve at a cost of about $450.
Ever since then my brakes have worked fine but my solution for the next time I have the RABS valve go bad is to bypass the valve all together and throw that expensive piece of junk in the trash.
That would have been fine with me. I don't care about RABS anyway. I have never gotten a straight answer about bypassing this stuff though. However, it's working fine now. But if that expensive computer module ever fails, can I just ignore it and not have ABS? Will the brakes still work properly?
Yes, you can bypass the RABS valve, or just unplug it. When RABS isn't engaged, it behaves as if it's not even there, allowing fluid to go to the rear cylinders like pre-RABS brakes. When the computer senses impending lockup, it drains pressure from the line for a fraction of a second to keep the wheels rolling. If you stay on the brakes hard, you can lose rear braking until you pump the pedal again.
4WABS works differently, modulating the pressure in each line almost independently. It has a motor-driven pump, and it disconnects the slaves from the master cylinder when it's engaged. Some other brands' RABS use a motor.
I wouldn't just unplug the thing I would bypass the valve and remove it from my vehicle. I figure what happened is junk built up inside my RABS valve and held pressure on my rear brakes. I wouldn't even want that thing inline if I ever have the same problem again.
Boy!! this thread has a heck of a lifespan. I started this thing over 2 years ago ??? I didn't think it was that far back.
Anyway, When my wire was unhooked and the light was on the brakes still worked ok, but when I got to slippery going I thought the fronts were doing more work than the rears and it would tend to slide more than when the light was out and the abs was working. The problem was intermittent and the abs came on sometimes when the weather was damp but wouldn't stay on. I could feel the pedal give a little like something was releasing and the fronts wouldn't slide as much. I suspect my apportioning valve may be messed up and may have been for some time. I may have to bite the bullet and get a new one just to see if this is the problem.
I just thought about it but I did change out the rear end a few years back. We put in one out of an f-150 with abs and the same gears (355's). Would this make any differance? I'm not sure if it came out of a 2 or 4wd. Comments anyone?
There's no difference between 2 & 4WD 8.8s, but you could have bought someone else's brake problems with it. Did you ever bleed the rear brakes or check the linkage inside the drums? Autoadjusters often hang up, effectively "turning off" the rear brakes. If the axle was on the shelf when you bought it, there might have been debris in the lines.
Thanks Steve
We bled the rears this summer and they did have some air in them. It seemed to be better. As far as the adjusters are concerned I have had a couple of brake jobs done since I changed the rear end and I stand on them occasionly in reverse to get them to "self" adjust. I think they work ok.
We haven't really had much slippery going yet this season so I'm not sure how much better they are yet.
I didn't think there should be any difference in the F150 rears but you never know.
You don't have to do anything special - the autoadjusters try to tighten the brakes EVERY time the rear brakes are actuated, either by the hydraulics OR the e-brake cable; forward or reverse. But the threads in the autoadjusters often foul with brake dust, keeping them from turning. Pull each drum and look at the tiny cable for the autoadjuster's cam - if it's slack, then the adjuster isn't working.
I think I have discovered something. When I know it is icy I am not really pouncing on the brakes, I tend to pump them (as in no abs). I have tried really stepping hard on them on ice and the abs kicks in and it stops okay. WOW imagine that!! I guess it stops so well that I have never really stood on the brakes except in a panic stop, and when that happens I am not really in tune with how things work as long as they do. (I've only driven my Bronco for 13 years and 500,000 mi, so I am still learning.) It seems that everything is working okay if I use it right.