BW 1356
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BW 1356
Hey everyone-
I got the BW 1356 transfer case in my 90 Bronco, it works well except for the fact that when I shift it out of 4 wheel drive to 2 wheel drive it stays in 4 wheel for a long time unless I put my truck in reverse and back up a few feet. I have manual hubs too. Is this binding common on the BW 1356? If so is there a fix? It is winter here and the intersections are slick, but the main roads for the most part are dry, so I get sick of it staying in 4 wheel drive when I want it in 2 wheel. Thanks for your help
I got the BW 1356 transfer case in my 90 Bronco, it works well except for the fact that when I shift it out of 4 wheel drive to 2 wheel drive it stays in 4 wheel for a long time unless I put my truck in reverse and back up a few feet. I have manual hubs too. Is this binding common on the BW 1356? If so is there a fix? It is winter here and the intersections are slick, but the main roads for the most part are dry, so I get sick of it staying in 4 wheel drive when I want it in 2 wheel. Thanks for your help
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 81
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From: The Rock, BC
BW 1356
a part time tcase will experience some binding due differences in wheel speeds front and rear. usually there is some amount of slip as well to allow the gears/chain to unbind when driving on "slippery" (for lack of a better word) surfaces such as gravel, snow and ice, etc. more than likely you are driving on semi-covered roads (am I right?) where there are a few patches of clear roadway now and then. it is normal to have to backup up to releive this bind in these situations, the binding is the result of too much traction at both axles
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BW 1356
>a part time tcase will experience some binding due
>differences in wheel speeds front and rear. usually there is
>some amount of slip as well to allow the gears/chain to
>unbind when driving on "slippery" (for lack of a better
>word) surfaces such as gravel, snow and ice, etc. more than
>likely you are driving on semi-covered roads (am I right?)
>where there are a few patches of clear roadway now and then.
>it is normal to have to backup up to releive this bind in
>these situations, the binding is the result of too much
>traction at both axles
Rockfrog-
You are right I am driving on semi-covered roads, but even if I drive on nothing but snow/ice it still happens. I was kinda hoping there was a fix to this because sometimes I will drive 5-10 miles after shifting into 2wd before it actually goes into 2wd. I get kinda paranoid since some of it is one dry pavement. I know that the easy solution would be just to put it into reverse when I wanted to go back to 2wd, but I live in a city and that usually isn't possible.
Is this a problem with chain driven transfer cases?
My Bronco's 4wd selector moves in and out like I am not physically putting it in/out of 4wd. I remember my cousins 78 Bronco and it sometimes took some muscle to move it in/out of 4wd.
>differences in wheel speeds front and rear. usually there is
>some amount of slip as well to allow the gears/chain to
>unbind when driving on "slippery" (for lack of a better
>word) surfaces such as gravel, snow and ice, etc. more than
>likely you are driving on semi-covered roads (am I right?)
>where there are a few patches of clear roadway now and then.
>it is normal to have to backup up to releive this bind in
>these situations, the binding is the result of too much
>traction at both axles
Rockfrog-
You are right I am driving on semi-covered roads, but even if I drive on nothing but snow/ice it still happens. I was kinda hoping there was a fix to this because sometimes I will drive 5-10 miles after shifting into 2wd before it actually goes into 2wd. I get kinda paranoid since some of it is one dry pavement. I know that the easy solution would be just to put it into reverse when I wanted to go back to 2wd, but I live in a city and that usually isn't possible.
Is this a problem with chain driven transfer cases?
My Bronco's 4wd selector moves in and out like I am not physically putting it in/out of 4wd. I remember my cousins 78 Bronco and it sometimes took some muscle to move it in/out of 4wd.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 81
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From: The Rock, BC
BW 1356
WOW, sounds more like you have auto hubs. From experience, I have had driveline bind even while driving on totally snow covered mountain passes ... snow isn't really all that slippery. Still, probably best to have it checked out. Have you tried it out on a logging road, just to see if it occurs on a slippable surface? If it only happens on the highway then it may be that the slippery sections are not enough to releive the bind. If it happens all the time you may have other problems.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
BW 1356
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Dec-02 AT 11:42 AM (EST)]You don't really have to put it in reverse, but you should let it roll back - even a couple of inches will usually work. The newer chain-driven t-cases shift much more easily than the gear-drives.
If you have auto hubs, they actually need to be reversed several feet to unlock, but when you're shifting ONLY the t-case, all you have to do is relieve the bind.
If you have auto hubs, they actually need to be reversed several feet to unlock, but when you're shifting ONLY the t-case, all you have to do is relieve the bind.
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