Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 236
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Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
>However, for the Bronco I had the
>driveshaft rebuilt and balanced at a driveline shop.
I'm with JBronco. Have a driveline shop do the work on it, but pull the thing off yourself. It is really easy to remove the driveshaft, you just need some of those 12 point sockets!
>driveshaft rebuilt and balanced at a driveline shop.
I'm with JBronco. Have a driveline shop do the work on it, but pull the thing off yourself. It is really easy to remove the driveshaft, you just need some of those 12 point sockets!
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 81
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From: The Rock, BC
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
If you're not to sure about doing it, it'd probably be safer to take it to a shop (after the shaft is removed) ... it is a bit of a bitch to get the centering pin in place on the centering yoke without catching the needle bearings inside. If you do want to do it yourself the best place for info is the Factory shop manual (got mine off e-bay for a song - the body chassis electrical is the particular volume you want) .. the press mentioned earlier is well worth the cost as you'll find it has more than this one use .. look for a 4 in 1 4wd ball joint service tool (paid $126CDN($77US) for mine and then it went on sale for $89CDN($55US)
another thing to remember is to stress releive the U-joints after assembly (simply put - whack the yokes with a hammer) to prevent premature u-joint failure.
a good site that shows the various parts of the dual carden "CV" is here http://www.cvaxles.com/driveshaft.htm as you can see by the components these "CV"'s are not true CV joints.
another thing to remember is to stress releive the U-joints after assembly (simply put - whack the yokes with a hammer) to prevent premature u-joint failure.
a good site that shows the various parts of the dual carden "CV" is here http://www.cvaxles.com/driveshaft.htm as you can see by the components these "CV"'s are not true CV joints.
New User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 14
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From: greenville usa
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
when checking the u joints, try checking them with the transmission in park (or in gear) and also with the tranmission in neutral. Also be sure that the truck is on a level surface. Sometimes it helps to rock the truck a little to relieve the pressure on the drive shaft. I had some vibration problems on my 85 bronco. The first couple of times I checked the ujoints with the trans in park, i couldn't detect any play. Once I put it in neutral there was a whole lot of play. I removed the drive shaft but had a shop install the ujoints. I installed the driveshaft myself but still had a vibration problem. A few days later I broke the differential carrier (4 pinion ls carriers are expensive to repair!). The mechanic also discovered that some of the needle bearings in the new rear ujoint were jammed. I dont know if this caused the carrier housing to break, but it may be worth it to recheck your ujoints after the repairs are made.
ken
ken
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 141
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From: Raleigh USA
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
The slip-yoke on my driveshaft is shot... should i just buy a new one or if i have it rebuild, how much will it cost?
1985 Blue and White Bronco XLT, 351HO 4bbl, C6, NP208 ,9" 3.55 limited slip, Warn Premium Hubs, Quad Front Shocks, Dual Flowmaster 50's, BFG 32x11.5 ATko's
1985 Blue and White Bronco XLT, 351HO 4bbl, C6, NP208 ,9" 3.55 limited slip, Warn Premium Hubs, Quad Front Shocks, Dual Flowmaster 50's, BFG 32x11.5 ATko's
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 10-Dec-02 AT 11:25 PM (EST)]I was incorrect in saying CV joint. The truth is that the front U-joint assy. on the rear shaft is a double-cardon U-joint. Basically a fancy way of saying a U-joint with two spiders in it. It also incorporates a spring and centering ball. The spring and centering ball allow for there to be, in essence, three U-joints in the rear shaft (allowing for greater range of motion during suspension flex) without the need for a carrier bearing to keep the shaft from drooping. this is not a Constant Velocity joint in the truest sense of the term. True CV joints have a multitude of ball bearings and unique shaft connections so that there is no bind when the joint reaches full travel in the arc as it bends. Unlike standard or even doudle-cardon U-joints which will eventually reach a point in their travel where they will bind. Hence if your driveline angles are off by too much this bind detroys U-joints...even the double-cardons.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
Actually, the double cardan is a true constant-velocity joint. The rubber-booted ones you see on cars are called Rzeppa joints, but most people do refer to them as CV joints.
Jared
Jared
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 81
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From: The Rock, BC
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
uh ... ya got it backwards me thinks. A true CV joint is a joint which maintains a continuous speed (velocity) throughout its range of movement, as such the Rzeppa, tripod, birfield and other such designs are in essence a true CV joint.
The dual carden joint on the other hand, due to the nature of a carden U-joints tendancy to change velocity as it cycles through it's range of motion, is not technically a CV type joint(they speed up and slow down - thus the need to both phase and equalize the components and angles of operation with these setups)
The dual carden joint on the other hand, due to the nature of a carden U-joints tendancy to change velocity as it cycles through it's range of motion, is not technically a CV type joint(they speed up and slow down - thus the need to both phase and equalize the components and angles of operation with these setups)
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
Ok, you made me consult my college automotive book. It refers to the double cardan as a CV joint, and says that the Rzeppa and Tripod joints are referred to as CV joints. Do you have any literature that you can direct me to that says otherwise? Oh yeah, and on the original topic, it says that if the centering ball is worn out, this can cause a major vibration.
Jared
Jared
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2001
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Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
I just went through the same problem on my Expy. Vibration started around 60, and got worse the faster you went. When you let off the gas, it also gets worse. It turned out to be the centering ball in the joint. I had the entire shaft rebuilt, and all was better. There wasn't any slop when checking in the vehicle, but it bound when I moved it after I removed the driveshaft.
On the Bronco, you can do the job, but I prefer to have some else do it and balance the driveshaft while they are at it.
On the Bronco, you can do the job, but I prefer to have some else do it and balance the driveshaft while they are at it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 152
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Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
Ok last question...how much am I looking at to have the shaft rebuilt if I take it off myself and take it somewhere? Would a tranny shop be able to do it or is this a specialty thing? Thanks again for all the help.
Eric
Eric
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 81
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From: The Rock, BC
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
>Ok, you made me consult my college automotive book. It
>refers to the double cardan as a CV joint, and says that the
>Rzeppa and Tripod joints are referred to as CV joints. Do
>you have any literature that you can direct me to that says
>otherwise?
Now I gotta go searchin
see if I can find it, post back tonight.
> Oh yeah, and on the original topic, it says that
>if the centering ball is worn out, this can cause a major
>vibration.
>
>Jared
yeah that's usually the main cause, due to lack of lube at the center yoke. the other is the slip shaft wearing out for the same reason (I just fixed mine as the last owner was cheap with grease
For a sweet listing of all the parts involved, check here
http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~depdf~3~_0LG0NHFO6~
right click on the link and "save target as" it's spicer catalog listing of dual carden CV's ... lots of other techy junk there too
>refers to the double cardan as a CV joint, and says that the
>Rzeppa and Tripod joints are referred to as CV joints. Do
>you have any literature that you can direct me to that says
>otherwise?
Now I gotta go searchin
see if I can find it, post back tonight.> Oh yeah, and on the original topic, it says that
>if the centering ball is worn out, this can cause a major
>vibration.
>
>Jared
yeah that's usually the main cause, due to lack of lube at the center yoke. the other is the slip shaft wearing out for the same reason (I just fixed mine as the last owner was cheap with grease
For a sweet listing of all the parts involved, check herehttp://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?cvsp~depdf~3~_0LG0NHFO6~
right click on the link and "save target as" it's spicer catalog listing of dual carden CV's ... lots of other techy junk there too
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 81
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From: The Rock, BC
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 11-Dec-02 AT 05:09 PM (EST)]>Ok last question...how much am I looking at to have the
>shaft rebuilt if I take it off myself and take it somewhere?
> Would a tranny shop be able to do it or is this a specialty
>thing? Thanks again for all the help.
>
>Eric
a driveshaft shop would be prefered, check the big rig parts houses, usually they do it. If it's just a worn center YOKE it'l be fairly inexpensive, if the ball stud is worn as well it'd be better to get a good core from the wreckers as it'll be cheaper to fix. Last time I checked it was gonna cost about the to repair my old shaft (worn slip shaft) than to have a new one made.
For a bronco check the wreckers for newer models (usually cost $40-$75 just be sure to give it a good inspection for binding and wear) just make sure you have the right length (80-86 will differ between auto and manual and rear axle - 9" rears have a longer shaft length), 87-96 will vary by trans - 4spd,5spd,3spd auto, 4spd auto ...). get the longest shaft possible as it fairly cheap to have the shaft shortened and balanced (it's when ya have to replace weld yokes and such it get pricey quick
>shaft rebuilt if I take it off myself and take it somewhere?
> Would a tranny shop be able to do it or is this a specialty
>thing? Thanks again for all the help.
>
>Eric
a driveshaft shop would be prefered, check the big rig parts houses, usually they do it. If it's just a worn center YOKE it'l be fairly inexpensive, if the ball stud is worn as well it'd be better to get a good core from the wreckers as it'll be cheaper to fix. Last time I checked it was gonna cost about the to repair my old shaft (worn slip shaft) than to have a new one made.
For a bronco check the wreckers for newer models (usually cost $40-$75 just be sure to give it a good inspection for binding and wear) just make sure you have the right length (80-86 will differ between auto and manual and rear axle - 9" rears have a longer shaft length), 87-96 will vary by trans - 4spd,5spd,3spd auto, 4spd auto ...). get the longest shaft possible as it fairly cheap to have the shaft shortened and balanced (it's when ya have to replace weld yokes and such it get pricey quick
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Here's an odd one regarding vibrations.....
Amen on the worn centering ball causing bad vibrations. My '92 got so bad I could listen to the ball and joints clatter around even at low speed. Sounded like a locker wanting to engage and not doing it. I know, I'm a schmuck for not fixing it sooner but just figured I'd add another $0.02