steering wheel issues
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
steering wheel issues
Does anyone have a trick way to pull a steering wheel. I tried to pull mine yesterday and managed to strip one of the threaded holes. I drilled it out and tapped to 3/8 - 24 threads but that one stripped out as well. Seems my wheel refuses to come off. I monkeyed around with a 3 jaw puller but the plastic coating was bending so I stopped short of breaking it. I have thought of disconnecting the steering box from the frame to hammer the shaft out but I am afraid that will result in the destruction of the upper column.
The reason I need to pull it is that my turn signal switch is not working correctly. The front right and back left lights work but not the opposites. I had to splice new wire in when the tail light turn signal harness melted on my exhaust pipe. I tired 12v directly to the wires and the lights work that way. Going over the wire schematic the only place I could have an issue is the turn signal switch. Brake lights work as advertised and the parking lamps do as well. I can hear the flasher working. I even changed the bulbs to be sure I didn't miss anything. Thanks for any advise.
The reason I need to pull it is that my turn signal switch is not working correctly. The front right and back left lights work but not the opposites. I had to splice new wire in when the tail light turn signal harness melted on my exhaust pipe. I tired 12v directly to the wires and the lights work that way. Going over the wire schematic the only place I could have an issue is the turn signal switch. Brake lights work as advertised and the parking lamps do as well. I can hear the flasher working. I even changed the bulbs to be sure I didn't miss anything. Thanks for any advise.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Well the big nut is off. The used a porpane torch to heat the splined and hit it with WD-40. I heated it again until the rust and WD-40 came bubbling out. After I posted eariler I thought of using 2 2x4's in between the hub and outer wheel to help put pressure on with the puller. It has been setting now for an hour. I will go back out after this post to tighten it again to see if it has loosened any. I know I run the risk of warping the wheel but I can fix that at a later time. I whacked the puller bolt with pressure on the hub and it didn't budge. So I believe the splines are rusted pretty good. I will try the wax trick if the wheel hasn't loosened next.
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From: Clarksville,Tn
Beside John's humorus comment; try alittle BP Blaster around the center column sleeve; after the center nut is remove and ensure at least two bolts are screwed into the wheel plate, with your gear puller. I don't believe your signal problem is in your turn switch indicator, minus not having a cancellation options. Sounds more like a ground wire problem or expose wire short too me.
Mitch
Mitch
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From: Escondido, CA
That is what I thought as well. I ran 12V to where the wires attach to the steering column wires. And to be sure I didn't have a hidden shot I used a multimeter to check for a closed circuit. They work as they should from that point on. So I know the problem is inside the steering column. The turn signal switch has the contacts in the following order: left front light = left outer, left rear light = right inboard, right front light = right outer, right rear light = left inboard. I believe the problem is with the left side of the turn signal switch since it is not allowing the voltage to run down those wires associated with the lights. I want to see inside to be sure and replace the switch if need be. It could be that the switch has come apart just enough not to make contact.
Anyways, I went back out and drilled the stripped hole deeper for more thread engagment. I used the torch on it again and more crap boiled out with the oil so maybe there is a lot of corrosion holding it together. So far the deeper hole is holding the bolt. I am going to leave it with tension on it while I go out to a few superbowl parties and see what happens. Maybe it just needs time to decide to let go.
Anyways, I went back out and drilled the stripped hole deeper for more thread engagment. I used the torch on it again and more crap boiled out with the oil so maybe there is a lot of corrosion holding it together. So far the deeper hole is holding the bolt. I am going to leave it with tension on it while I go out to a few superbowl parties and see what happens. Maybe it just needs time to decide to let go.
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Postmaster
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From: Escondido, CA
OK so tonight I went out with a scribe and pushed on the turn signal switch in between the column and steering wheel and sure enough all the lights work with some downward pressure. So I know for sure the switch is bad. Bad news is that the wheel hasn't budged a bit. I think I am going to have to go for broke and see if the wheel puller will be able to force the wheel off. Hopefully I will not need a new steering wheel after all this is said and done. But in case I do, anyone got a spare they are willing to part with?
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stuck steering wheel
Mark,
Ford N series tractors also use the spline similar to the Ford truck. Since the tractor wheel/shaft is always getting wet, they rust in place in most cases. A method recommend on their forum is to leave the nut on a few threads, whack the outside of the hub with a hammer in several places around the outside with blows towards the shaft centerline. Then grasp the wheel rim and yank. The thoery is the blows on the outside of the hub "jars" the spline and breaks the corrision grip. On a tractor it is imperative to leave the nut on since when it comes loose, you could find yourselve flying off the back of the tractor. It worked for me on my 8N (not flying off the back). My 64 wheel came off easy so I didn't have to resort to other methods. I believe I would use a 2x4 stub between the hammer and hub on the truck wheel with some cotton cloth to eliminate marking of the wheel hub. Just a thought.
Hope you get it off!!
POP
Ford N series tractors also use the spline similar to the Ford truck. Since the tractor wheel/shaft is always getting wet, they rust in place in most cases. A method recommend on their forum is to leave the nut on a few threads, whack the outside of the hub with a hammer in several places around the outside with blows towards the shaft centerline. Then grasp the wheel rim and yank. The thoery is the blows on the outside of the hub "jars" the spline and breaks the corrision grip. On a tractor it is imperative to leave the nut on since when it comes loose, you could find yourselve flying off the back of the tractor. It worked for me on my 8N (not flying off the back). My 64 wheel came off easy so I didn't have to resort to other methods. I believe I would use a 2x4 stub between the hammer and hub on the truck wheel with some cotton cloth to eliminate marking of the wheel hub. Just a thought.
Hope you get it off!!
POP
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Escondido, CA
Well I am going to drill the jack holes all the way through the steering hub in hopes that it will allow for enough thread grip to stop stripping out the holes. Luckily I can get my hands on a few different lengths of 3/8 - 24 threaded bolts. I am also going to be loosening up the collar on the steering wheel to allow some space to put nuts on the backside. Hopefully I can fine the 1/4 thick nuts again at work. They sometimes disappear from where we normally keep them. I will also try the hammer method you suggested Popbreed. Tomorrow I go in for shoulder surgery and I wont be able to yank the wheel for a few weeks. Thanks for the crossreference Number Dummy. I have a feeling I am going to be looking for a new steering wheel shortly if it doesn't come off as it should.
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Postmaster
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From: Escondido, CA
Well after drilling all the way through the hub, tapping it with 3/8 - 24 threads, and using 190,000 psi aircraft bolts with cold rolled threads I was able to pull the steering wheel. I found the problem with the switch by the way. When the wires burned on the exhaust pipe it melted one of the metal springy thing plastic studs. Hence the lights not making contact and working right. So now I have a few weeks to plot the rework of the column wires. I have a feeling I will be glad when my wife goes back to work so I can do one arm maintenance actions without her getting on me about it. I do so love her though. She only has my best interests in mind when I am doing things I know I shouldn't be. Like the time I was installing my disc brake system when I could barely stand because of my back spasms...
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: ND
I'm glad you didn't let that steering wheel beat you. I just wanted to let you know some time ago some one told me "Ya know why you hurt so much ? God does that to ya so you won't mind dying so much." I still trying to figure out if that's good or Bad..