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Frame prep?

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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 11:18 AM
  #1  
53C6_400ci's Avatar
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Question Frame prep?

Hey everybody,
I'm looking for a consensus of opinion. Might be hard to come by, but what the heck! I'm wondering what the general consensus is regarding chemically treated frames vs. sand-blasting (for rust). My '53 frame is in pretty good shape, alot of surface rust, no cancer type stuff. I have wire-wheeled the big junk off, now I'm tossing up POR-15, Rust Bullet, or Rust encapsulator (Eastwood). Has anyone used either of these, and what did you think about it?

Thanks,
Glenn

'53 F100
'02 Focus
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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My choice would be to sand blast it, then powder coat it.

If that's too pricy, then sand blast and ZeroRust paint. I use ZR and like it a lot. Haven't used the others, but hear that POR15 is a pain to apply.

A chemical dip is problematic because the solution can get trapped and keeps eating away or comes out thru the paint later.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 53C6_400ci
Hey everybody,
I'm looking for a consensus of opinion. Might be hard to come by, but what the heck! I'm wondering what the general consensus is regarding chemically treated frames vs. sand-blasting (for rust). My '53 frame is in pretty good shape, alot of surface rust, no cancer type stuff. I have wire-wheeled the big junk off, now I'm tossing up POR-15, Rust Bullet, or Rust encapsulator (Eastwood). Has anyone used either of these, and what did you think about it?

Thanks,
Glenn

'53 F100
'02 Focus
I did much the same on my frame (wire wheel brushed) and then painted it with POR-15. Randy is correct in that it is a PITA to work with but if you use rubber gloves and don't get any on your skin you will be okay. Even though it is brushed on it dries like it was sprayed. I used it on my front and rear suspension, inside floor, and floor underneath also. I have not used ZR or Rust Bullet.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 09:41 AM
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Thumbs up Por15 experience.

Sounds like your frame was in about the same condition as mine, actually yours is a little more rusted from the looks of the photos, take a look at my photo gallery. My son and I used the Por15 system and its the "Bomb". It was very easy to use, flows very nice with a brush ( Definately use GLOVES ) or it will leave you with some serious new tattoo's that will take a while to come off. I dont plan on eating off the frame, and it is a daily driver so powdercoating was not my choice. But for the most part if you look at the frame, it looks remarkable the way the Por15 restored the metal.
 

Last edited by Innovative Detailing; Feb 5, 2007 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #5  
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I did not do it, nor do I know how it was cleaned........My frame was cleaned thouroughly (somehow-I think blasted) and they used Eastwood's rust encapsulator on it. So far there is no visible rust anywhere.


My only complaint is that they used the "RED" color on it. It will get top coated black some year. LOL
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 10:08 AM
  #6  
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I have mine sandblasted and have found a place to powder coat frame for $150.00 so this is the way I'll be going from now on. More if you choose a special color, but if it what they are running that day it is just put in line and ran through.

Great find for Ohio truck builders..using the term very liberally!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 10:14 AM
  #7  
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There is more discussion concerning Por-15 down on the 47 and older forum if you want to skip down and check it out just for reference.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 02:33 PM
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This is what mine looks like after POR-15. I did the rear end and springs too.

 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 04:17 PM
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Sand blast & powdercoat. Mine came out perfect.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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A friend of mine got his old Harley frame powdercoated. Unfortunately, years of grease soaked into the metal and the powdercoating lifted off underneath where the engine is.

If you're planning on powdercoating, you'll have to degrease the frame before you media blast the frame. Even then, I'd check with the powdercoating people to see if they want to bake the frame to try to drive more grease out of the metal before they try to spray it. It's not the powdercoating that going to cost money/take time, it's the preparation before you powdercoat.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 11:11 AM
  #11  
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Thumbs up Frame Prep.

As for me I've used Rust Doctor on several projects. Works by chemical action to change Iron Oxide(rust) to Iron (something or other) that is like a coating that doesn't rust. Then just paint. It is very easy to use and can be brushed or sprayed. Easy clean-up too. It has a laytex base. Took about a gallon to do my frame. Just make sure you get good coverage in all nooks and crannies.and all surfaces. Try it you'll like it. Norm
 
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