ATS Turbo
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ATS Turbo
Hi all
I'm new to diesels and I'm in the process of changing my glow plugs on my new to me 93 f250.
One of the plugs is directly underneath the turbo that the previous owner installed. I have no installation or removal manuals for the turbo so I'm wanting to know which is the best way to remove the turbo. Some of the bolts in the back seems imposible to get to. I looked underneath and seen some connections for the manifolds. Do you guys disconnect the pipes from the bottom and pull the turbo out with the pipes or do you disconnect everything from the top?
If anybody got any diagrams manuals or info on these turbo's I sure would like to see. I e-mailed ATS a couple of times but all I got was silence.
Thanks
I'm new to diesels and I'm in the process of changing my glow plugs on my new to me 93 f250.
One of the plugs is directly underneath the turbo that the previous owner installed. I have no installation or removal manuals for the turbo so I'm wanting to know which is the best way to remove the turbo. Some of the bolts in the back seems imposible to get to. I looked underneath and seen some connections for the manifolds. Do you guys disconnect the pipes from the bottom and pull the turbo out with the pipes or do you disconnect everything from the top?
If anybody got any diagrams manuals or info on these turbo's I sure would like to see. I e-mailed ATS a couple of times but all I got was silence.
Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,438
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From: Monroe, WA
You want to remove the turbo just to change a glow plug? Just find a 3/8" wrench you aren't crazy about and bend it to fit the plug. It will be the most work you've done in a while, but way easier than pulling the turbo.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
i believe there is a tin heat shield right over that glow plug .. remove that by removing the one short bolt holding it in place. That should give you a bit more room to work. Make sure to replace the heat shield when done.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
My heat shield id held in place by two intake manifold bolts for the #8 intake runner.
Although it is a real pain to do, I have changed it without removing the heat shield.
That glow plug takes longer to change than all the rest put together.
Although it is a real pain to do, I have changed it without removing the heat shield.
That glow plug takes longer to change than all the rest put together.
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Well after what seems like hours I got that pain in the B&%@ glow plug changed. The heat shield looks impossible too from the way I'm looking at it.
Spectramac I have other reasons for taking that turbo off besides the gp. I have a bad oil leak somewhere back there and maybe the drain for the turbo might be the culprit. But I would still like to know the best ways to remove it. Any tricks too making the job easier is always helpful.
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Spectramac I have other reasons for taking that turbo off besides the gp. I have a bad oil leak somewhere back there and maybe the drain for the turbo might be the culprit. But I would still like to know the best ways to remove it. Any tricks too making the job easier is always helpful.
.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,897
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From: Northeastern Pa - USA
they musta changed that heat shield mounting. it was only held in with one 5/16 bolt when i was messin with it .. (and Columbus was still a hippy) it was easy to get it out of the way and remove the glow plug.
also removing the turbo wasnt really bad, just a pain. Spray the fitting at the up pipe (cast Y) let it sit while you are removing the other pipes and top end parts (air cleaner and oil line) keep the turbo solid at this point. Remove the Y casting bolts and drive the flange with tap tool (4 pounder recommended). Now go back up and remove the turbo mounting nuts and remove the turbo. You might find the o ring has failed or the previous installer didnt make a drain hole in the lower valley pan.
also are you sure its motor oil and not fuel ?? I havent seen the oil drain o ring fail unless it was pinched during installation.
also removing the turbo wasnt really bad, just a pain. Spray the fitting at the up pipe (cast Y) let it sit while you are removing the other pipes and top end parts (air cleaner and oil line) keep the turbo solid at this point. Remove the Y casting bolts and drive the flange with tap tool (4 pounder recommended). Now go back up and remove the turbo mounting nuts and remove the turbo. You might find the o ring has failed or the previous installer didnt make a drain hole in the lower valley pan.
also are you sure its motor oil and not fuel ?? I havent seen the oil drain o ring fail unless it was pinched during installation.
