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Ok changed the water pump out sunday, and eveything ran fine until monday night when i was filling up. The engine started sputtering and would die if I let off the gas. I can floor it and it wont go anywhere, so im wondering if its just a clogged fuel filter from sitting for about 3 months or if its the IP. A bunch of antifreeze got all over the engine and everything when the water pump cracked and i dont know if some got on the moving parts of the IP or not and gummed it up. I need answers ASAP im desperate!!
Wondering if the fuel is summer grade? If so try some diesel 911. Sounds like it jelled up from your description (if it as cold there in TX as Michigan) or it could be a plugged filter. Or it could be a bad fuel issue since it happened right after fueling
Its not cold down here, put diesel kleen in after i filled up and it seemed to keep the truck running right. Put wal-mart diesel in, never had a problem before there and in a small town like this im sure ida heard if they had bad diesel. It did freeze bad while the truck was sitting, could the ice all over the truck and under the truck cause the fuel lines to crack?
No it shouldn't. It is zero degrees here and no problem. Wondering though - if some water got into your tank from the ice storm or while fueling and settled in the low part of the fuel line then freezing blocking fuel flow. I've seen people (by accident) put the nozzle in the tank and don't shake the snow/ice off the nozzle.
I am new to the diesel but have been studying and reading for 6 months. I read on another site that you can mistkenly put the wrong bolts in the wrong waterpumps holes and screw somthing up I forget what it is you are screwing up I tried to serch the other site for the post but could not find it if i find it
I found the post on the other site It said that if you put the wrong bolts (probably to long)in the top holes of the waterpump they can make contact with the injection pump and ruin it. For what it is worth
Im pretty sure that most of the castings have been changed. This was a problem in the early engines. But they redesigned those two pump bolt boss's to be longer so there would be no confusion. The only way that can happen now, is if you got an old casting. Even then, there should have been a little piece of paper included with the pump that explained it.
How old are the return lines? Somtimes an old oring just needs a little bump to start leaking air. Like working on the water pump?
Last edited by fonefiddy; Feb 5, 2007 at 05:12 AM.
I agree with the return lines theory i was having a hard time starting even with it pluged in and using a hair dryer I bought a return line kit, a new water fuel sepaerator filter, 3 seals that go in the lines from the fuel filter head and a fuel filter all for about $50 I just started it this morning fired right up did not plug it in and it was 6 degrees out
If you think you have the wrong bolts in the wrong place, drain the coolant down before removing any bolts. Only the top 2 and bottom 2 need to be removed. The top 2 may be removable with fan and pulleys in place. Check the nose of the bolts for wear. The main shaft of the IP will be broken if it is the problem and a NO start situation will ensue. PS did you put sealant on those 4 bolts at the threads and head ends as required.