thanks, i did check the threads on the plug and they looked ok, but the whole end of it was black and smelled like gas. which i would imagine is a product of the cylinder not working right.

i am not sure how i will fix it because the forcast for ohio this week is not looking all that great. the high tomorrow will be 8 deg and we are having some serious winds. of course this thing is to tall to fit in any garage so i might take it to have it fixed.

 

for any one who read the previous posts today i had a friend come over and we messed around with the beast and here is what i have learned. the firing order is correct. when it is idling it runs ok, not great but it has idled worse. when ever the engine is under load, like in gear or i get on the throttle it has a serious miss. we removed a wire and ground it out on the engine and it sparked but not much. could this be a bad cap, rotor, and wires. i got cheapos. the reason why was it was saturday and the dealership was closed.

how much will these parts cost if i go to the local ford dealership and get motorcraft parts?

sorry so longwinded but thanks

 

try summit racing for decent prices on motercraft parts

 

cool i will go there. but does that sound like a reason why it would be acting like it is.

 

cheap parts suck.

get motorcraft.

 

yeah, but this is the first time i have ever really delt with this problem. my old 88 f150 i6 i never had a problem with it when i changed these parts. but this one has me stumbed. hopefully it is just the cheapos.

 

I agree cheap parts aren't the way to go Here's what I paid last week, oil filter #FL1A=$3.95 air filter #FA1046=$7.95 sparkplugs FRM25=$2.95 wire set WR4093=$35.95 cap and rotor ACC8233=$19.95(accel) fuel filter FG872=$9.95 Serpintine belt GTR4060990=$22.39(goodyear) $10 shipping recieved in 2 days MOTORCRAFT PARTS except as noted (Just trying to help the dude out there quicklook)

 

today i went out and put the old cap and rotor on it. just trying to narrow down what is problem is, and it still ran like crap so that tells me the new cap and rotor are not causing the problem. so i am believing that it is possibly the wires and will go out and get a motorcraft set tonight.

it is still just hard to believe that giving it a tune-up caused these problems

thanks for listening to me complain about my problems

 

Cheap wires won't make the truck run bad unless one is damaged. Same thing can happen with expensive stuff. If this is what happens then you just got unlucky. But I don't know why you're looking here if you've found air escaping around a plug. Air should not escape around plug and since your truck ran better before your tune up then it sounds like you cross-threaded the plug. If you have a compression leak plug wires aren't gonna fix it. It's easy to check though. Put all your old stuff back on and see how it runs. If it still runs bad then the only variable in all this is you. If it runs like it did before then replace things one at a time.

 

also, you could have hit a sensor or cracked a vacuum line or knocked a vacuum line off or knocked a connector off a sensor.

many things could have happened.

but i agree with gman.

 

for some odd reason i am not very lucky when it comes to fixing cars.

i forgot to say that i found out the air i thought coming from the cylinder if from the smog pump. tonight i sprayed the vacuum lines with ether and the idle did not change for the better or wrose, nothing. so i don't think it is a vacuum leak. i am starting to wonder if i could have done something to the spark plugs themselves. because when i was changing them i changed 3 and started it up and moved it to a less windy spot and it ran fine, but after all 8 were changed it ran like crap.
and that is what i thought about maybe unplugging somethingor knocked something out of wack. but everynight since saturday i have looked under the hood and haven't noticed anything wrong with any sensors. earlier when i was out there i think i unplugged the map sensor and the idle picked up and still had the miss. the sensor was located on the firewall on the passenger side right above the heater lines.
thanks

 

okay heres a new one. tonight after work i went one at a time and put the old spark plugs back in. what i mean by one at a time was put one in started up to see if i could find a bad plug. well after all done it runs just like it did before i started idles good, runs good at speed no miss. and actually is hard to hear and feel running at sometimes. all i did was put the old plugs back in so i figure that the new motorcraft plugs i put in either got flowed out, they were black and smelt like gas, or they were a bad batch. which i figure can happen no big deal but now i just have to firgure out what happened.

thanks for all the help

 

did you put in motorcraft platinum plugs?

i would advise to use the regular motorcraft resistor plugs.

yes, even motorcraft can sometimes have a bad product. i have heard of motorcraft oil filters being bad and also the plugs.

this is true of almost any manufacturer.

 

they were regular plugs.

don't get me wrong i am not upset about the plugs being bad. i work in a small factory and i understand that sometimes things slip thru q.c. it happens. i am happy that i didn't cross-thread a hole, and i am happy cause i can drive the 9mpg beast.

thanks a bunch
matt

 

Just so you know, the next time your check engine light is flashing, this means an engine misfire, and since this is detected by the computer, it is probably going to be electrical.