I had to do several things last night on the 97 Aero, including replacing the middle sliding door track and checking out a rear window leak on the driver's side...
1. The door hadn't been closing right since we had it. I looked at the striker bolt in the rear. It has a nylon-looking bushing around it that was worn. I noticed that the wear wasn't dead center in the middle. So I popped the bold off, flipped the nylon bushing end-to-end, and now the door shuts very nicely.
2. I had to remove both interior panels. Getting those puppies out in the daylight showed just how dirty they were. We'd scrubbed them in place when we bought it in September. But in the light outside, they were ugly. In a fit of frustration, I applied some break cleaner to the vinyl. Worked wonders. Even removed what appeared to be white paint from the vinyl. I'm going back today to put some 303 protectant on it, to make up for what ever violence I did to the vinyl.
3. My Chilton's manual didn't tell me how to remove those gas shocks on the rear door. (Necessary to remove interior panels.) We found a flathead screwdriver slot on the end near the panel and pulled off the sheetmetal ring covering the end. That did the trick.
4. There are idiots in the world, and sometimes it is my misfortune to work behind them. I was concerned about finding the leak, and really didn't want to have to pull the window. Well, with the interior panels off, it was no problem figuring out the cause of the leak. The leaking window had been replaced (glass fragments inside the wheel well) and the replacer neglected to put the spring-washer-nuts back on. All 8 of them were missing! (Actually, we found 3 of them in the wheel well with the broken glass.) The only thing holding it in was the butyl and force of habit. Amazing that the leak didn't look like Niagara Falls. So I'm off to the parts store to see if I can scarf 5 more spring-washer-nuts. And yes, we did pull the window, and it looked like in addition to the butyl, someone had tried to use wood glue to patch up. Spent some quality time with a scraper last night.
Thought I would "share"...

 

It is amazing the poor quality work that is being done out there. That is so sad. None of us, even dyed in the wool do it yourselfers minds paying a fair price for good work but in my estimation, this is nearly impossible. Glad you have things under control.

Ken

 

One of the first things I learned when I started working on cars is that they use almost NO standard hardware like you would find in the hardware store. So it is with the nuts and captive washers that hold the glass to the frame. I ended up getting some ny-lock type nuts and separate washers. The nuts turned out to be some really small metric types, so I had to two different sized washers on each stud.

 

Yes. We used the 3 we found in the wheel well. They are metric 4-.70 treaded. The nuts that you can buy (tried Advance, PepBoys and Napa) are all pretty small. So we ended up using the small nut over a washer, and that over a spring washer.
It was hard to get the window flush with the side of the vehicle. 90 degree weather would've been better. We worked in a semi-heated garage and used a heat gun from the inside while another guy pushed from the outside. It got pretty close, but not perfect. It should hold water though.
I'm still a bit surprised at how sorry that repair job was. Still, with the help of some threads in this forum, I fixed it for about $15 worth of butyl and hardware. Thanks!