if it wont start...roll it!
http://www.theprofounddarkness.com/movies/yeehaw.wmv
http://www.theprofounddarkness.com/movies/roll.wmv
As a side question, I'm still new to wheeling with my own truck; I've always been the passenger. When I try to tackle a pit such as this:
http://www.theprofounddarkness.com/images/bronco%20stuck.jpg
what is the key? Do I need speed, i.e. get a long running start, or just slowly enter and spin the tires? I'm guessing that the slow entrance is preferred as less water is sprayed around the engine compartment. Thanks for any tips.
At the VERY least, you should extend ALL the vent lines to the top of the firewall (or equally high) AND put on some bigger tires (you can go to 33x12.50s with almost no mods). And when you sink the front hubs, you should always repack the bearings within a few days, or you COULD ruin a BUNCH of front-axle parts.If you HAVE to go thru an obstacle like that, then you should first walk it to find the best route and go in slow enough that you can back out if it gets too deep or bogs/bottoms.
If you're just playing, then it doesn't really matter as long as you understand the risks you're taking and have somebody there ready to tow you out. Just remember that water is a LOT heavier than it looks, and when you hit it fast, your front end goes down & slows down... (You COULD lose control & roll.)
If you're interested, I can post my standard spiel on how to prep a vehicle for deep-water fording, but I won't unless someone actually wants to read it.
I should have clarified that I won't attempt it again until I get my lift and tires. It just snuck up on me this time.
oh yeah - your truck sounds really good, c.c.bronco. what sort of exhaust system are you running?
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The hubs can leak in 5 places: the selector **** O-ring, the hub-to-lock cap O-ring, each cap screw, the inner wheel bearing seal, and the stub axle-to-spindle seal. The differential vent tubes only run up to the frame, and when a diff (or hub or transfer case or tranny) half full of hot air is dipped in cold water, the air shrinks and sucks in whatever is at the end of the tube. The air pump has 2 breather holes on the back, and if it's full of water, it will not spin at engine speed (causing the belt to slip) and will pump water into the catalytic converter (shattering the ceramic substrate). The alternator and starter brushes are soft carbon, and water (especially full of sandy mud) will soften them and cause them to wear out almost instantly. The fan (though attached to a clutch that will let it freewheel when cooled by water) is not strong enough for the impact of hitting water and may bend (out of balance) forward (into the radiator) - it will also throw cold water onto a hot engine and may warp the block and heads or crack the exhaust manifolds.
These are some of the considerations that have been addressed in the design of tactical military vehicles like the HMMWV, and that's part of the reason for their cost. As a general rule, remember that the only parts of your truck designed to come into contact with anything other than air and rain are the bumpers and the tires... and the bumpers aren't designed for much more than that.
Pull the hubs and spindles and replace the 2 inner seals. Then repack the hubs FULL of grease so there is very little air to shrink. You'll never get them full, and they will always suck in some water. I extended my diff and t-case vent tubes, but my NP435 vents where the shift lever pivots in the top of the cover, so it's vulnerable. I know the AOD-4WD has a metal vent tube that would have to be cut just behind the top of the block to be extended, and the 2WD has a vent cap that's a pain to remove before an extension tube could be installed, but I don't know about other trannies. Shoot some white aerosol grease into the vent holes in the back of the air pump and plug them (one is recessed). You'll still have to worry about the filter mounted on the right wheelwell. The alternator and starter can't be helped. Change to an electric fan and put a cut-off switch inside so you can turn it off before fording. You will always have to worry about warping the block and heads or cracking the exhaust manifolds. Go to junkyards and look at fresh-air tubes from other engines to see if you can find one that opens on top of the core support instead of passing through - then seal it to the air filter box, plug the drain holes in the bottom of the box, and block any unused holes in the core support. Find an '86-94 Crown Vic and get the rubber distributor cover. These will let you splash and make VERY short fords, but don't try to drive 100 yards across a river; your cab will fill with water.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

The truck WAS and still IS my friends. It still exists. We both hauled it away to our storage facility AND cleaned any waste that was left over .
As for my exhaust, well all I have done is cut off the muffler. The motor is stock with factory manifolds and cat. I am actually very surprised and pleased with the sound. This setup is just temporary, as I plan on running true dual, although I am uncertain as to what mufflers I will use.
Thanks for the compliments, advice, and flaming - I hope I cleared up some concerns!



I was hoping to see you hit that deep spot, though...


