I have a 1975 F-250 two wheel drive, short bed, super cab, camper special, with a cummins diesel. I have replaced all the front end parts and done an alignment. I know it will never handle like a rack and pinion, but what can I do make it drive straighter and avoid the "road wandering"??

 

Did a well known front end shop do the alignment? I'd find another shop if you took it to Sears, K Mart or one of the chain auto repair stores. Those guys haven't a clue on how to do it right. All they do is follow a book, and don't know the tricks of the trade.

Over inflated tires will cause road wander, as will some tread designs of radial tires, especially on grooved pavement. Radial tires were not used on these trucks when new. Radials on older trucks can bring forth issues unknown with bias ply tires.

 

jovainc

Hows the rag joint on the steering box, and how is your steering box! Let me take a guess, it's power steering ? In the years of driving these old trucks the power steering seem the worst for '' road wandering "".



P.S. you may look at installing a steering stablizer that mounts to the steering arms, it works like a shock!



Wally Womack

 

i've had many of these old fords and only had one that floated! i do agree with the stabilizer though it does help!!

 

Thanks to everyone for the advise. The alignment was done by a reputable tire shop. The rag joint was replaced with an adjustable shaft because of a 3" body lift. I also installed a stablizer shock which did help, but its still always a challenge to keep straight. The tires are 305-70-16 on 16x10 rims. Maybe I'm just expecting too much, because my other trucks are new and have rack and pinion. Should I try a double stablizer shock?? or is there a different power steering box???

 

The engine's been replaced. :/

What's the new "ride height"?

Get under there and have somweone rock the steering wheel and feel for any play in every place it get's a shot;) at messing you up.

My '75 steers better than new.

Just replacing a few parts didn't do that, seems like everything on the pickup effects steering.

I got under mine and measured and measured and measured and figured out it wasn't "square". Made corrections to that along with many others and it now drives better than when it was new and no kidding on that, got it with 14.1 miles on the odometer.

If the sectror shaft coming from the steering gear is showing play, get back on here and say so. :) That was one of my last and biggest problems to solve.

Alvin in AZ

 

If you've put a Cummins in it, what front springs are you running? I would think you need some pretty stiff springs to handle the extra weight?? Between the motor and tranny, I'd have to guess you've added some weight over the stock setup even if it had a 460.

Any factory diesel pickup seems to have a pretty heavy front suspension to support the additional weight of the powertrain.

 

You're right the cummins and e4od tranny is about a total of 500 pounds heavier and I used thicker taller springs and heavy duty shocks. I checked all the steering parts and replaced the ones that were worn. I still felt the road wandering and placed a single stablizer shock. I am wondering if a dual stablizer shock would help. Any other ideas???

 

Any change in the steering's feel with the change in steering parts? :/

What's the measured "ride height"? (got a Ford shop manual?)

What's the toe in?

I like best 0" to at most 1/32" in.
The spec sez 1/8" at most, but that sucks IMO... 1/16" "in" at most is more like it.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in1.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/toe-in2.jpg

That's my favorite method but there are other methods liked by other guys.

That's 1+1/2" square thin walled tubing, need two and two 16" bricks.
Just measure it with a tape measure, it can easily be done by yourself.

Steer onto a flat spot with the steering wheel "cocked" to the same position it is when driving stradling the center line. To double check that steering wheel position I drive on the wrong side and the right side and "split the difference" and see if it's the same as stradling the line.

After every adjustment change I go test drive and see if I like it.
That's how I came up with 0" to 1/32" in as my favorite, for my pickup.

The pickup is a Ford with twin I-beam suspension it's not going to steer as good as a (perfect condition) Chevy. Chevy's have what I call a "car suspension" and it's hard to beat, right up until you bump into something with a tire or suspension member! :) BTDT LOL :) Those things are flimsy, but when they are "right" they steer great. :)

Almost everything under that pickup effects the steering. :/

I went through it all like I meant business and mine steers better than it did when it was new. No kidding.

One thing that was wrong was it wasn't -square-! :/
I fixed that myself.
Takes a lot of measuring and figuring. ;)

235/85-16's on 7" wide wheels was a big step forward over the crap(!)wheels that came on it. :)

I'm wondering if it ain't your tires and lift. :/
Do you need a lift?
Do you actually drive through high water?

What worn parts did you replace with new-ones in the last ten days?

Alvin in AZ
ps- my pickup steers down the highway almost as good as a new 70's Chevy :)

 

Guessing the lift, in part, is to clear the drivetrain for that cummins - if it is an NV4500 or Getrag 5spd down there.

Mine is an F250 4x4, that had 6 leaves on the front for a Boss V-Plow and a 460. I removed the plow, and the 460, and put a cummins in it. With 6 leaves, and a 2" body lift (to clear the NV4500), it would follow the grooves in the road. I removed two leaves, it obviously softened the ride, and it immediately handled better - quit following the grooves.

So jovainc, I guess my point is - are your heavier, longer springs too stiff? Or, are your shocks being overwhelmed by the cummins weight - and you need a dual shock setup? Could you drop some or all of your lift - that would help immensely.

With that lift - are your body mounts new/stiff enough? Or are you getting roll and sway that might cause the truck to move. I'm not up on 2wd's much - is there a sway bar there and are all the bushings good?

Hope between all of us someone hits it.

And , like Alvin said, take the alignment into your own hands, measure precisely, and tweak it a 1/4" further in or out. Mark where it is to preserve the shop alignment.

keep us posted!
jon.