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Got my Honda Shadow somewhat running, replaced some fuel lines...but still need to yank the carbs and clean'em up...fun fun...but also need to replace the waterpump on it, as it's leaking through the weephole.
Not a simple task...have to disconnect the engine and slide it over to access it because of the frame rail...who'd have thunk the Japanese would design something like that?
Grrr.
Looks like my '59 Chevy will be leaving the stable this weekend, received word they're coming down to haul it home.
I was going to dump the cash inot a frontend for my '36, but met a guy who works at or bought into (not really sure) So Cal Speed shop who want's a lot of my leftover '55-9 Chevy parts, I'm going to see if we can work a deal on "parts for parts".
Well, to keep some momentum, here is my update. If you have not followed along on my saga, I am getting the old family truck that my parents bought new in 1970. Here is my gallery. My brother in Montana currently has it on his ranch. He is getting the engine rebuilt (360 but may have it bored out to 390), new clutch, exhaust, and tires. I am going to head up there in May to drive it back.
My plans then are to start restoring her to daily driver that looks good, but will still pulls stumps, take loads to the dump, and be a usable, reliable, tough as h### pickup.
It needs some body work on some bad rust areas and a paint job.
While waiting until May I am getting some parts lined up, buying tools, sending lots of money to my brother, learning about restoration and Ford Trucks from this site and every where else I can get information. I am also available to help on the project truck. I am also trying to get the yard and house in shape for spring and summer so I can work on my truck then.
Just to keep the record straight, the 360 and the 390 are the same bore - the difference is the stroke. It takes a different crank, and they use different rods and pistons.
If the 390 and 360 have the same bore, then why do they use different pistons?
Mike, that is cool that you will finally have the 59 Chevy sold. Even better that you might be getting rid of soem extra parts.
Fastmover, that is cool that you will be gettign the family truck, and whether or not it has a 360 or a 390 I am sure it will be a good running truck.
I don't have an update yet. Still waiting for the funds to happen to go up and get the camper for my '76, and then next month, go up and get the Ranger. However, I may have to postpone getting the Ranger until April.
If the 390 and 360 have the same bore, then why do they use different pistons?
. . . .
They re-located the wrist pins to keep the piston from cocking to the side when it was in the down position. Some guys use the 360 pistons with the longer 390 rods to boost the compression ratio.
btw, Fresno Craig's list has a Street Dominator manifold for a 460, only $70. . . .
One challenge I am having is deciding what to do about the exhaust. It currently has a single with one bad warped manifold that is leaking. I want to go to dual exhaust but am not sure whether to just replace the bad manifold and run the exhaust back from them or to get new headers. With all the work I am getting done to it, money is starting to run tight. I am looking at probably $600 to go the header route for a whole exhaust system according to one quote. I just saw in MAC catalog I can get a manifold for $135 each. Anyway, I guess that I could have worse concerns than this.
Last edited by fastmover; Feb 2, 2007 at 11:51 PM.
Reason: add more text
. . . . I just saw in MAC catalog I can get a manifold for $135 each. . . . .
The old cast iron manifolds are $10 items at the wrecking yard. I sold a set of new, unused headers for $75. I have a set of cast iron manifolds I would sell you for $20, but it would be cheaper to buy what you need in Montana and save the shipping.
*****, thanks for the advice. I saw some cast iron manifolds on ebay for a$16 each. I am sure I can get some in Montana for a good price now that I have started looking. Maybe I will even find a decent set of headers.
Well, the guy I was talking about, say's hes up for a trade "parts for parts", but it will be a month or so before he can work it internally and be able to get up here and do a swap.
I have some decisions to make...wait and bank the bucks from the '59, or proceed and just spend the cash on the frontend I want...grr...patience is not a virtue I have.
Good thing is dan will be down tomorrow to grab a few more parts off the MH, then I'll call the junkie's to come drag'em out of here.
Clinit, I'll set the fridge aside for you, Dan got it ready to pull last weekend.
Sure wish I had the ambition to swap another axle under it...hate to see that D70 go to the scrap yard, but what the heck.
Karl, I would scrounge a cheap manifold for the time being (if that's actually the problem) and then swap in headers and duals when you do the motor. One thing to watch for however...I had a bad exhaust leak on my 360 when I got it. Replaced the gasket, it still leaked. Took the manifold clear off, ground the flanges flat, it still leaked. Turned out the flange on the head was actually warped. I didn't want to pull the head off a perfect-running truck just to have the exhaust flanges surfaced so I took the cheap 'n easy way out...I used my Makita disc grinder to carefully grind the ears of the offending port as flat as I could, then reinstalled the the manifold with a header gasket which is thicker and will conform to imperfections a little better.
It's worked pretty well, however I just replaced the gasket after almost a year. If I'd sprung for the dead soft copper gaskets it probably would have held up better but I've been planning to swap in my headers.
So the moral of the story is to check the port flanges on the head as well as the manifold. Your problem could lie in either area.
So the moral of the story is to check the port flanges on the head as well as the manifold. Your problem could lie in either area.
Dan,
Thanks for the cheery prognosis. I think it is just the manifold is bad and I hope that is all it is.
Thanks for the fenders. (Finally, a sunny day!) I cleaned them up today, popped out the rivets (only one broken drill bit). I plan to order the fender to cab seals this week. I am thinking of cleaning the inside of them up and using either POR-15 or Eastwood Rust encapsulator to paint an protect the insides. They are in great shape.
Yeah, it was kinda nice today. I worked on Gramps place a little, adding some insulation around the water heater compartment and a water heater blanket and sealed up some potential sources of heat loss and then still had time to get the trunk floor replaced on the Mercedes. Tomorrow I should be able to put the fuel tank back in and then be one major step closer to driving it.