Hello! I'm new here and I have a question regarding the removval of my transmission to replace the rear main oil seal. I got the Truck about 3 months ago. The body has about 160k miles on it w/ 90-100k on a rebuilt motor.

Main problem the rear seal leaks like a sive. I can put a quart in it every three days to keep it topped off. Engine is strong, Tranny is in good shape, doesnt blow smoke or burns oil it just loses alot of oil from the rear seal. I have confirmed that it is a one piece seal.

Most people won't touch replacing it because if the spring in the seal grooves the crank then replacing it would be useless. I found a company called Microsleeeve that repairs any grooving by sliding a thin coller that would cover any grooving thus making the seal tight again. Has anybody heard if this works or not?

When I consult my Hanes manual to remove my tranny to get to the seal it is kind of vauge and confusing. Has anybody come across any good solid easy to follow instructions in regards to removal replacement of the tranny. I have a friend that has a full shop w/ all tools necessary to get the job done (and experience).

Should I try this, all it would cost is the parts and my buddy will help me for a six pack. (good deal eh?) Do you think I should even try?. The truck is solid and I worry that the leak will just get worse until it competely blows out. The truck is a 1987 FS Bronco 4x4 with a newly rebuilt transfer case and runs real well exept for the James Bond style oil slick it leaves and I'm not in to messing up the earth by leaving dinner plate size oil leaks whenever I stop. I't gets so bad that the oil has just blown back all the way to the rear of the truck.

I really appreciate any advice from you folks. I would prefer to spend a day and about a 100$ to fix it then send it to someone for 550$ that can't guarantee that it will work. One last thing, would I need any special seal removers or if there is a way to get it installed with the same results as a expensive tool.

once again thans for any info in advance. Take care. Happy new year!

PS the seal is a one piece confirmed by the manufacture date on the beast.

 

You won't need any special tools (it just taps back in), and dropping a transmission isn't very difficult if you have a shop with a lift & a transmission jack to handle all the weight. You should probably leave the t-case attached to the transmission if you can - no need to create any problems. While you're in there, inspect your freeze plugs closely - you won't want to do this again soon.

BTW All Broncos are 4WD, but you didn't mention what transmission you have. If you don't know, post the TRANS code off the door jamb sticker. If you post ALL those codes and the VIN (you can substitute "X"s for the last 4 digits for privacy), we can tell you a LOT about the truck that could be helpful later.

 

I have used those "sleeves" on a few Ford small blocks. They work like a charm. I had the same James Bond oil slick option on my 91 mustang. I would say go for it, it is not easy, those trannies are heavy like you wouldn't believe. The nice thing about the Bronco's is, if you but them on car ramps you can sit comfortabley under them to do the work. Good luck!!!

Al...

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Jan-03 AT 03:00 PM (EST)]Thanks for the reply guys. The type of transmission is a T series. Another question, is there any info on the net for a step by step removal and replacement of a rear seal using the slip on coller and removal of trans? My hanes book wants me to jump from 3 diffrent chapters ending in the removal of the trans in the v-6 engine chapter. They are just slightly vauge to me. Thanks in advance and taking the time to answer. Happy New Year.

edit.. I don't have a jack specifically for a tranny but I do have 4 heavy duty jackstands and two 2.5 ton jacks. Will that do? Also I saw a company on the net that offers the sleeve/installer tool for sale. Would I do better finding a coller at a auto store, and do I need a special tool to get the main seal back in perfectly?

 

You don't really need a "transmission" jack. My buddy and I have removed and replaced many tranny's with only a regular floor jack and a piece of wood. You just have to be more careful that the tranny doesn't fall off the jack. It's pretty easy. As far as the seal goes, you should be able to tap it in without the use of a special tool. It is possible to do it this way. Have fun!

-Chris

 

once again thanks for the replys. What seals and such do I need for tranny, transfer case etc.. Will it be hard to adjust any linkages that I have to remove to get it out? Like I was saying the Haynes just tells you how to get it out but no indepth info. the manual just kind of jumps from diffrent chapters when I get to diffrent steps. Is there anywhere on line that has a super straightforward how to on getting the thing out? or is there a better manual? I guess to elaborate on my first question, beside the rear seal and the sleeve for the crankshaft, what other parts will I need from the parts store to get the job done. I just like to research a little before I get started next week. And I don't want to have to run out to the store to pick up any pieces I forgot, say the seal between the t-case and the rear of the tranny... the book is vauge. Sorry for the dumb questions I just like to know beforehand so I am kind of mentally prepared. I have done work on vehicles before but nothing as "heady" as a large Ford tranny. What kind of trans is the"T" model that is listed on my door sticker. Thanks again you really have been a help. Damn, if I could afford it I'd just take it to a shop but this will be my last major vehicle repair I fear. Take it easy.

 

Bump w/ furthur info...specs on the sticker.


Date:2/87
GVWR:6000lbs/2721KG
FrontGAWR:2600LB/1179KG RearGAWR 3750LB/1700KG
VIN 1FMDUI15N6HLA3XXXX (the X's were sugggested to protect my vin #)
Type:MPV
Exterior:105
Paint Colors:US152
Body:AB
Trans:T
Axle:H9
Spring:VZ

are there any extra parts I need from the parts stores beside the seal and the repair coller? EX. engine oil, Trans fluid, trans gasket, Trans filter, etc?

Also is there any step by step info on the net on how to remove replace the tranny and t/f case to get to the rear seal for this specific thing I need to do? I'm worried because the Haynes is vauge on the readjustment of any linkages attatched to the tranny and is also vauge about draining the Torque converter. Does it hold the tranny fluid as well. Doesn't the beast take something like 17 quarts of fluid? I'm apologetic for asking so many questions but I love my truck and would like to make her healthy again. I have experience w/ working on autos (mostly foreign usually with a 100% sucess rate) Maybey I'm just over doing it by asking everything I can. I just want to be prepared. Thank you so much again for anybody that replies.

PS How can I find out what Tranny I have in my truck. I just talked to the people that make the sleeves, they were a great help and I can get them from NAPA. I am very happy! Thanks once more.

Nate

 

Ok bubba, here goes the skinny on the rear main oil seal. The seal is very cheap, only a few bucks, less than a six pack. But it will take about a case to talk your buddy into helping you so this, if he has ever done this before.
I did mine about 5 months ago, it was a real pain in the ***. I used a fully equipped shop with air guns and trany lifts and floor lifts. But I did mine alone also so that didn't help, the wife did watch and keep a well stocked supply of Band-Aids on hand.
1. First remove the drive shaft, but mark the placement of the shaft with a marker, I used white out.
2. You can remove the trany with the transfer case in tack but its a heavy SOB! and hard to move around.
3. The whole thing will come out pretty easy, the torque converter is filled with trans fluid too and it just slips on and off the transmission. be careful and don't let it fall like I did there very pricey items!
Now for the thing that was a pain to get off is the fly wheel. At the shop I was at had a special tool to hold the fly wheel in place while I unscrewed the bolts holding them on. I don't know what type of glue ford used to hold these things in place but the bolts where a pain to get off.
Then its just a simple pulling of the gasket to get it to come out. I use a gasket puller to get it out.
To put a new one in, to get it to seat correctly I use a large pipe cut off flat and just taped it with a hammer. that's it.
Now its a pain to get the transmission back in place and seated correctly. all in all it took about 2 days and lots of beer after wards.
Its best if your going to do this to drain the transmission and reinstall the pan. so that way you can change the filter as well. you might want to put in a B&M shift kit while your at it.

The worse part about my little adventure here, is about 4 days after changing the seal, I blew all the guts out of the transmission playing in the mud.

 

 

>Date:2/87
>GVWR:6000lbs/2721KG
>FrontGAWR:2600LB/1179KG RearGAWR 3750LB/1700KG
>VIN 1FMDUI15N6HLA3XXXX (the X's were sugggested to protect
>my vin #)
>Type:MPV
>Exterior:105
>Paint Colors:US152
>Body:AB
>Trans:T
>Axle:H9
>Spring:VZ

Your VIN shows that your Bronco "U15" is slightly lighter-duty than most Broncos, which are usually rated for 6-7Kip (3rd digit "E") - yours is 5-6Kip "D". Your engine is the 5.0L "N", and it was built in Wayne, MI "L" (birthplace of most Broncos).

You've confused some of the codes; your exterior paint colors are ABOVE the line, and should be a number & a letter each.

105 is your wheelbase "WB"; "U15" is the "Type" & "2" is the GVWR code, which means 5450lb. I assume the "S" in there is a typo, like I know the "I" in the 6th position of the VIN is.

The Body codes say you have blue vinyl seats; "T" is the code for the AOD transmission, which means you have P-R-N-OD-D-1 in your shift indicator and a cable running from the throttle down the L side of the transmission called the "TV" (throttle valve) cable.

"H9" means you have a limited slip (TracLok) differential in the rear axle which has 3.55 gears and is rated for 3750lb. Your front axle MIGHT have limited slip and it has 3.54 gears.

The spring codes only translate to part numbers, but the 4-digit codes in the box above (one starting with "F" and the other with "R") show the reserve capacities (in pounds) of your front & rear axles, respectively.