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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 08:56 AM
  #1  
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Brake Servicing Questions

It has been a long while since I did my own brakes. I have a really good shop nearby who is fair and does good work, but my wallet is thin so now I gotta do it myself.

Having not done a 76 F-150 2WD, is/are there any special tools I need to undo the caliper? I had to do an 80's Mustang once and I had to buy some dang big Torx bit. For a one-time job.

What is the torque on the spindle nut?

Any suggestions for pads? My SuperCab is hard on brakes - lots of weight to stop even when she's empty.

Thanks, everyone!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 09:21 AM
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No special tools required for pad replacement on 2wd pu. Any good quality pads should be ok for your truck. The spindle nut should be tightened to about 20 ft lbs and then backed off about two notches on the castle nut washer. I just tighten it by feel and then back off a little til the wheel spins freely. If the slide pins are worn, they should be replaced. They are called "caliper support key" They can be bought seperately.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 09:40 AM
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From: Friendswood TX
Thanks for the reply!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 01:21 PM
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Make sure you get pad glue
DOT 3 or Dot 4 brake fluid enough to do the whole system.
Raybestos Semi-Metallic Pads
Check the caliper pistons for moving freely

 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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Thanks, Dennis! That key was messing with me - I didn't understand what I was missing!

Stu
 
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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Lug nut torque, anyone?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:39 PM
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I think it's 100 ft lbs
 
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Also, don't forget to make sure the valve on the end of the differential valve is held out when you bleed the brakes. This drove me nuts for weeks. I finally found this out from a Haynes manual.

I never could get the front brakes to work at all until I re-bled the brakes with that valve pulled out. Haynes recommends making a tool for it, but I just used a small pair of vice grips to hold it out until the brakes were bled and then it stayed out on it's own.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:50 PM
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Yes good point. I'm sure he has read it on here before though as I have posted this numerous times.

 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 01:01 AM
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D- You have posted that many times along with the pictures of the pin being held out. Those are all on your website aren't they?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 01:03 AM
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Nope ! In my gallery.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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Mucho thanks, all!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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I don't know if you have done this or not yet, but from selling auto parts for quite a while, I highly recommend you use organic brake pads rather than semi metallic. I know they will sqeak with the semi metallics.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:13 PM
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From: Friendswood TX
I went with Wagner Quiet Something Organics - seems like I recall they don't grind up the rotors as bad...
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wkeller
Also, don't forget to make sure the valve on the end of the differential valve is held out when you bleed the brakes. This drove me nuts for weeks. I finally found this out from a Haynes manual.

I never could get the front brakes to work at all until I re-bled the brakes with that valve pulled out. Haynes recommends making a tool for it, but I just used a small pair of vice grips to hold it out until the brakes were bled and then it stayed out on it's own.
Whoa...that's the first I've heard of this and may explain some of my braking issues. Wouldn't happen to have a picture of this, would you?
Thanks in advance!
 
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