Hi All,
Looks like I need to pull the tranny in my 91 Bronco. I have ATF coming from my inspection cover/plug on the belhouseing portion of the tranny so assume TC seal or pump seal. Wondering what I am looking at time wise for the job and if there are any pitfalls I should look out for.

Is there anyway to pull the tranny withouut unbolting the transfer case? looked like a big NO but figured I'd ask.

As always appreciate the help.

 

I have a 93 EB w/351 & E4OD and yes, I did remove them together--all by myself! I replaced the TC, rear main seal and converter seal while out. It took some "engineering" , but I used some cheap items as tools and it worked quite well. It was done in my back yard (literally "shade tree"). I had no lift, ramps or hoist. There was no time that I was under the vehicle in a precarious position where the whole shabang would have fallen on me and seriously injured me.

It took me several days off and on to do it, but again, I was by myself. I will have to think about it a little to come up with a procedure that you could use. With help, you might be able to do it in a day or so, really cant say for sure. It depends on your experience and expertise. If you are interested, I will try to make a senseable procedure for you!

 

Why do you want to remove the t case and transmission as a whole?? The transfer case is only attached with 5 or 6 bolts and it would make the job a lot easier if you got it out of the way. Anyway, I'm sure that the trans can be REMOVED with the transfer case attached, but putting it back in that way seems like it would be a PITA. I have had my E4OD out 3 or 4 times and I really don't think that putting it back in is a one man job. You should definitely invest in a trans jack though, Harbor Freight has them for like $70. As for time, it depends on your ability and a little bit of luck. I've had mine out and back in in about 8 hours or so. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck

 

You didn't meen leave it in truck and just remove trans did you? Take them apart I took mine out in one peice I had a trans jack and still squashed myself. Put back in separate and its easier to move around to bolt up. Good luck

 

I removed them as a unit. Using my method, by myself, a lot of extra unbolting is not necessary. Whatever is the easiest for you is what you should do. You still have to disconnect driveshafts, which can be done fairly easily unless you have really small tires. If all your work is at the front of the tranny, then no need to make the rear accessable, so why disconnect. With my method, you do not have to have a tranny jack (I didnt). A quick list of my parts is: 1 or 2 small floor jacks. 1 2X4X8 piece of lumber (good lumber--not a lot of knotholes etc). Several 1' assorted pieces of 2X4, 4X4 etc. and possibly a small sissors jack.Now I know your thinking "death trap", but let me emphasize that at no time was I under anything heavy while hooking up, lowering or raising back up the assembly. Also, 2 people would be definately "Mo gooder"

As I said, I havnt done up a formal procedure, and wont bother if you dont think you have the expertise to do this level of work. Of course, it would be better, faster, and maybe a little safer in a full shop with a lift. But then you "pay" for those benefits. I think that removing the Xfer case would add more risk to the procedure, putting the "shade tree" under more heavy stuff while disconnecting. I can understand anyones scepticism, but it worked for me, and was cheeeep! Really busy right now, but will try to come with a good description of what I did soon as I can if interested.

LOL anyway

 

I definitely think I an handle it, I like to do everything on my truck (with some help from friends!) and will definitely attempt it. I guess I am looking to not take off the Transfer case cause I just did. I replaced it a few months ago and locktighted the bolts in. and those top bolts on the top of the TC are a complete pain to get too!

Any procedure that might save me time would be appreciated!

 

I have dropedthe T-case on my trucks a number of times I beleive I can get the thing out in about 20 min not counting getting the drive shafts off. And by it self it CAN be bench pressed not that heavy. A floor jack of trany jack is a must have to get it back in.

 

Tranny jack to remove t-case, then again to remove tranny. Then used to install tranny, then again to install t-case. Any chance a tranny jack would remove both attached while still attached to the X-member? A jack would be a help, but I shortened the steps by at least half. Wish the jack would do them attached. No argument about the possible advantage of a jack. However, I didnt have one and "got er done" I am either real smart or dumb-----think I know which

 

If you liked the top two bolts on the transfer case you're gonna love the top two on the bellhousing.
Kurt

 

In my 93 there is an access panel in the floorboard so that you can get to those top 2 bolts. Makes things a lot easier. You can also get to the middle 2 bolts from there with a few extensions.

 

Thanks dallas, I still need to put my trans back in and that should make that part much more pleasant!

 

First thing is first, if you don't have a transmission jack, it's definitely worth renting one for a day. Second have all of the tools you need at hand. At a minimum you will need an 18mm deep, a universal socket,a 16mm shallow a 15mm shallow,a14mm shallow, a 13mm shallow a 12mm 12 point shallow, a 3/8 shallow, and a 10mm shallow. you will need at least 1 of each of those sizes in wrenches, and a 24 inch extension is very helpful as well. If you have a jack, you can let the transmission hang ever so slightly, and get to the top bell housing bolts. as long as you have the long extension. I can have one out in about an hour, and back in and running in under 2. If it's your first time, expect it to take you about a day. also, a 20 inch piece of 2X4 is about the same as the hump in the bottom of the pan. I can't stress it enough chain it to the jack. If you can't get a transmission jack, get a buddy to help steady it. I worked R&R for 5 years ,and these were my bread and butter.

 

Removing the tranny is not a particular problem. I agree that a tranny jack is worth the rental. Here is where the plot thickens for the "shade tree".

In order to remove the tranny, you have to remove the xfer case. That means, removing the driveshafts. Remove the xfer shield, remove the xmember (6-8 bolts), at least If you dont remove the xfer case and xmember as a unit, you have to detach from xmember--all the while supporting the tranny and the xfer case----separately! remove the harnesses where they are attached to the xmember to get slack or disconnect the whole "ball of wax" from the tranny. After both are supported, remove the adapter bolts that hold the 2 together. Then slide the xfer case back to uncouple the tailshaft from the xfer case. I dont know of a jack designed for the xfer case, so you may have to muscle the xfer case down and out/backwards (possible w/out rmv harness plugs), maybe someone knows of a jack for this--.

Then, you can do whatever you like for the 2 top bolts of the tranny. I dropped the tailshaft slightly and got to them w/a 1/2 in extra long extention and a swivel (yea, a socket to!) . I had removed the exaust header and cat assbly to re-clock the second cat so it was closer to the frame rather than the tranny (too close to cooler lines leaving no room + added heat to tranny).

I see a lot of extra steps that I avoided because I was by myself and without a tranny jack, so I removed the tranny/xfer case as a unit---actually did not take the tranny out from under the Bronco, just let it sit on a "shade tree" creeper (we all know thats a big piece of cardboard box---dont we?). I also did not strain myself, (no knots on the lower belly). I used a piece (good solid piece) of 8' X 2" X 8" piece of treated board to bolt to the xmember, crossways, using 2 holes that are in the crossmember beside the mount bolts, so I had about 2' out on each side. Use a small floor jack to control the bellhousing area of the tranny and a small stack of 2' board to support each side of the 8' X-board. Remember, each side plus a jack under the bellhousing essentially means each point is 1/3 the total weight of both units, plus, you are not under the vehicle while sliding to the rear or lowering the assembly! The lower weight means 1 man can lower each point easily. Takes a little more time, but thats what the "shade tree" has a lot of------generally very cheap.

I realize that a lot of the "pro's" that do this for a living will go into cardiac arrest, but they sometimes forget that not everyone does this for a living. If you arent somewhat mechanically inclined, I wouldnt recommend this----also remember, "saftey first". Never get under anything that you havnt secured/protected yourself first. I offered to colad to give some better procedure---to show how I did it, but right now am busy trying to fight off alligators to drain the swamp Works for me, but might not for anyone else.

BTW, sorry for a long post!

 

I don't think you need to remove the crossmember to remove the transfer case by itself.