Hey Been bugging you kind folks about replacing my one piece rear seal. Got all the seals fluids filters ect. Don't have a tranny jack but have help and a few 2.5 ton floor jacks. I know that the haynes manuals are good but is there any info online that has pictures and step by step info on for what to watch out for so I don't bend or break something. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but this seems slightly intimidating. I'm up for it but I'm just kind of looking for the "So you want to replace your one piece rear main oil seal on your 87' 4x4 Bronco w/ a AOD tranny kind of info"

I'm looking forwards to it, but I just don't want to get stuck and have it take longer that a day. (truck belongs to wife) I told her if i'm going to do this she will inherit the honda for the hassle I'm going to go through to get this done. For kicks I will take digi. pics. of the process plus beer drinking and tool throwing. I'm sure it will be fine but if anyone has any tips or hints lemme know. I just don't like the haynes way of instalation is the reverse of removal. What about shift linkages or adjustments? Do the driveshaft mounts have to be marked for exact reassembly as they were removed for balance? Sorry for the huge paragraph but I had to have a percocet due to a back problem. Thank you, thank you, thank you. I love Broncos!!

PS where on the door sticker can I find what kind of T/F case I have? I figure I will replace fluid whyle its out. Are there any seals that are needed when it gets removed from tranny? (i'd prefer to take them in two just for managability sake.) Thanks again...

Nate

 

you shoyuld be able to find out what kind of t-case you have by looking at the metal tab on it. it may be covered with dirt and grease, but it should be there. from what i have seen, the np 208's have a metal tag on the back and np 205's on the front. also the 208 is aluminum and the 205 is cast iron.

 

also when you go to remove your tranny, it would be best in your case to seperate the tranny and t-case. i have done it before with less than what you have (the jacks), so it shouldnt be too tough. just unbolt the flexplate (5 nuts), remove cooling lines (2 lines) maybe a few wires and unbolt it from the engine. its not too complicated to remove and replace a tranny. watch out for the t-case though. they are heavy, more weight to those things than the tranny.

 

sorry, i forgot a few things.
yes, you should mark your driveshafts.
the linkages should just pry off with a little effort.
when you go to put it back together, you shoyuldnt have to adjust the linkages. . good luck

 

thanks for the replies! A few quick questions, when I replace the fluid in the T/F case should i use a Lucas style product in it? I was told that when i refill the tranny/T converter with the 12 qts. of trans fluid they take I should use a product made by Lucas that will help reduce slippage in shifting for higher mileage trannys.

Also in the Haynes manual the gasket between the trans and the T/F case looked pretty heavy duty. Should I replace it "just in case?" lastly would there bee any blue rtv sealant or "goop" as I call it involved anywhere in this process? Manual doesn't say. You gotta realise I got this truck for a 1000$ w 90k miles on engine and about 150k on body.

If I can get this seal repaired it would be worth to me to do more stuff to it shocks, egr valve, f. injectors etc.. Purrs like a kitten (got the twin straight back pipes that give it a nice grumble of a idle) when i sit at a stop light you cant even tell it's running it's so smooth. I have just decided I'm truck jacking it from my wife. Thanks again guys. I'll try to show some pics of the procedure. I guarantee it will be quite humorous.

Nate

 

There's no code anywhere for the transfer case - you have to ID it visually or by a tag. Yours will either be the NP-208F (which can be seen attached to an NP-435 in pic #6 of this album http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos.asp?mi=3&smi=1&a=13181) or a BW-1356 (the electrically-shifted version of which can be seen in pic #10 of this album http://www.webphotos.com/list_photos.asp?mi=3&smi=2&a=95012), and it's probably the Borg-Warner.

I'd use some common name-brand fluid until you know you've got everything fixed , and then decide if you need some expensive stuff.

There might be a paper gasket between the trans & t-case, but it'll probably remain intact enough to reuse. If it breaks up too much, just clean it all off & put a bead of silicone where it was - no big deal.

The driveshafts don't need to be marked unless you're going to split them at their slip-joints (which you have NO reason to do) - they can be reattached to the yokes/flanges any direction they'll fit with no balance or vibration problems.

The shift linkage won't need adjustment if you don't loosen the adjusting bolt, but even if you do, it's not hard to reset.