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Fuel Filter change.. Help =D

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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:23 AM
  #1  
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Fuel Filter change.. Help =D

Ok.. I have the page bookmarked for the instruction but just as that its text.. I want real life people answering lol..

I pick up the beast saturday and I was gonna have them change the fuel filter but said hell no when they said $110.00. I can get em for like 40 bucks at International!

So.. This weekend I'm doing it.. I got a 3 Liter empty Coke bottle.. Now what size socket do I need ? I haven't really looked at them but I assume the caps have nuts on the top that you slap socket on to loosen?

Then.. Is this the right steps;

1. Open Water/Fuel sep and drain into 3liter bottle till I see diesel (and smell). Then close valve.

2. Remove fuel filter and put new one in.

3. Go to the one in the engine.. Open it, take it out.. Suck out fuel with a Turkey Baster.. then put new one in..

4. Cycle key on few times waiting like 15 seconds inbetween or some crap..

5. Fire her up ?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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Did you check out this?
http://home.austin.rr.com/sbv1/Proce...r%20change.htm

This one gives wrench sizes etc. Very well done. Very easy but very messy for the frame one. Hope you don't mind a little diesel on the sleeve.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 11:56 AM
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Lonewolftx
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Wink Here you go, from my gallery . . .

It takes a 36mm socket w/ universal joint & exstention. Take out the drain plug and let ALL H2O & fuel drain into container. Then replace w/ IH plug upgrade, see pic. Then take off end cap w/ socket and replace filter. Then go to the engine compartment and change the 2nd filter out as well which is located next to the oil filter.

 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 12:59 PM
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I dont have the upgrade yet.. Wont have time to get it.. These filters do need to be changed so for now I'll pass on that.. Next time I'll get the Fumoto Valve and that valve.. Is there anything on the plug that needs to be changed for this filter change? Oring or anything.. Or will it be ok until next time when I have that new plug.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Nope, no o-ring on the plug. Also you don't have to wait till the next fuel filter change to do the plug. You can do that at any time. They are real nice. easy on easy off. Makes the monthly draining nice and clean and you don't have to worry about stripping out the allen head with the new plug

You will have to change the o-rings on both filter caps though. This is a MUST!!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by WilliesSD250
Nope, no o-ring on the plug. Also you don't have to wait till the next fuel filter change to do the plug. You can do that at any time. They are real nice. easy on easy off. Makes the monthly draining nice and clean and you don't have to worry about stripping out the allen head with the new plug

You will have to change the o-rings on both filter caps though. This is a MUST!!
What allen head? You need allen key to take the factory plug off?
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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yep, the HFCM plug sits flush wth the body of the housing. Looking at the HFCM from the filter end just on the right side of the housing you will see the plug. It's a little bigger than a nickle in sixe. You'll need a (I think) 6mm allen wrench to get it out. You'll only be able to get the short side of the wrench on it. When you replace it snug it down, but not to tight. If you strip out the head you'll create a lot more grief for your self.
The following three steps were copyied from the tech folder...
3. Remove the drain plug, using a 6mm hex drive, by turning it counterclockwise from above the plug while holding the empty container under the frame just below the plug.

<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

4. Allow the HFCM to drain for approximately 25 seconds or until clean fuel is observed. A very full fuel tank will cause the HFCM to drain fuel until tank is low enough for flow to stop

<o></o>

5. Reinstall the drain plug by turning it clockwise until it is firmly seated. Do NOT over tighten.


Two reasons for the new improved plug...
1) once loosened (the plug) you can drain the fuel from the HFCM and not worry about the plug falling into the dirt.
2) the new plug has a big cureled **** on the end so you can use you fingers on it, or a pair of pliers.(it also has the allen head, but you should never have to use it)
 

Last edited by WilliesSD250; Feb 1, 2007 at 01:28 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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I always have less than 1/2 tank of fuel so as not to drain a lot of fuel out of tank.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 07:43 PM
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Take no offense at this but I think you need some one with a mechanical background to give you a hand with this 1st filter change. We have had people that have done it before run into problems with air leaks and if you get into trouble that $110.00 charge at the dealer will be cheap compared to a tow bill.
Not criticizing, just trying to help.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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i did mine for the first time today on my 06, it has 5k miles and i'd rather do it earlier than later. now i'll do it every other oil change (3k miles).
i don't see how anyone is stripping out the 6mm allen plug? i took mine off with no issues. just have to have the allens that are separate and not part of a set that does't come apart. the filter cap was harder to get to using the 36mm socket and 3/8 ratchet. you are turning like a 1/8th of a turn each time with the ratchet. not much fuel spilled out at all really. i just had a small 1 gallon bucket under the frame and a bigger round oil pan under that to catch all the drips from the frame in various locations. other than that. it was a easy to do and not sure how anyone could screw it up. i did notice that the primary filter cap does go off and on rather hard. i thought you could hand tighten it much easier than it was. i started it by hand so i wasn't going to cross thread the plastic. i was worried about ruining the o ring when putting it back on, but i didn't. no leaks.
cycled the key 4 times before starting, i had no issues with it running rough what so ever.
also, i might ad, that prior to doing the primary filter, i had loosened the secondary cap on the one up on the engine. i figured that might help the lower one drain easier and faster. not sure if it did or not.
if the water in fuel light doesn't come on, then why should it be necessary to drain the primary one each month?
one more thing, I didn't jack up the front tire either, with the right allen key, you can easily get to the plug and the driveshaft isn't in the way.

good luck doing yours. it's not that hard. just be patient with the primary filter cap. it takes a while turning the ratchet for it to come off.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 09:05 PM
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Worst part is like anything they could have put that filter on the frame anywhere else. It is a great place for snow or slop to collect. It is a little tight under the hood but geez I am thinking it would be better than lying under the truck. Plus Navistar built the oil filter on top of the engine so you would not have to deal with crawling under to get to the filter. Guess Ford did not like that concept and said here you go fella's.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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yeah. there is nothing easier than changing the single fuel filter on the 7.3 up top. but the oil filter is down below. i guess we are asking for too much to have both fuel filters and the oil filter up top on the 6.0L
 
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Old Feb 2, 2007 | 05:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by dapgar
yeah. there is nothing easier than changing the single fuel filter on the 7.3 up top. but the oil filter is down below. i guess we are asking for too much to have both fuel filters and the oil filter up top on the 6.0L
On the 6.0L the fuel filters are a two filter kit due to better filtering and less line pressure loss as the filter clogs up. As well, it is always best to have a water seperator at the lowest point in the fuel system... hence why the 6.0L (and the newer 6.4L) have it on the frame rail.

No getting around having at least 1 filter down low!!!!

Use a Racor made and Ford spec'd filter that has the white "aqua-bloc" media filter on the large HFCM filter and never worry!!!! Non-OEM filters like WIX do not seperate water and filter as well as they do NOT have this extra patented media/filter on the large HFCM filter!!!!

See my gallery for pics of the fuel filter and what you need to look for.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 10:58 AM
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A huge thanks to all for all the posts and lessons learned in regards to changing the 6.0 fuel filters!

Changed my filters and upgraded my plug with no issues (other than a wristwatch that still smells like deisel). I had a full fuel tank but parked my SD uphill to avoid much fuel loss. If you drain/change in an uphill angle, make sure you come back to flat ground to prime the fuel system.

I've read several post that talk about stripping the factory plug. Make sure you are using a regulation 6mm hex driver, not a "L" shaped wrench or an American sized "almost" fit to avoid rounding out the hex. Use a spray bottle with soapy water and a scribe to remove all grime from the hex hole. Insert the 6mm hex driver into the hole and use a wrench to loosen the factory plug. Comes out easy!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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any idea how much these fuel filter upgrades are? and also a part umber from International...thanks
 
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