Not starting?
Not starting?
WEll i have a 96 351 bronco. I am not sure what the problem is i am at a lose again. The fuel pump has been changed the what i believe is the right relay has been changed. The throttle body has been cleaned and the filter changed but still there are days that you go to start it and it jsut keeps turning over then if you leave the key on it may take 2 seconds or 20 minutes but you will here the pump activate again and then it will start. Then you can be driving and it will die and then you will have to pull over wait again till you hear the pump go on then it is good to go again. This sounds like a relay to me but i have changed the #1 and the #2 relay and still it does it. I was told that the #2 was the right one is this wrong? Help please before i blow up the damn thing
hoping for some help
hoping for some help
Not starting?
If you're standing by the L fender with the hood up & the fuse block cover open, the FP relay is the second one from the fender. When the relay is energized, it's supposed to connect its L terminal (to the FP) with its R terminal (hot from Fuse O, the 4th from the fender beside the FP relay). Possible reasons for it to fail would be a) that it's a bad relay (not likely for several reasons), the fuse is partially burned (not likely but easy to check), the trigger signal is intermittent (a distinct possibility - it comes from the EEC power relay), or its ground is intermittent (the least likely, since it goes STRAIGHT to the EEC, but you could still test it for continuity).
The red wire between the bottom (closest to the fender) terminal of the FP relay should be a DEAD short to the L terminal of the EEC relay (1st relay closest to the fender) AND to the red wires at:
the canister purge solenoid dangling in a vacuum line somewhere on the R side of the engine
pins #37 & 57 of the EEC
the MAF sensor
ALL the injectors
the IAC
pins #1 & 12 of the E4OD
the AIRD solenoid probably on the L side of the engine
the EGR solenoid probably beside the AIRD
Put a DMM set to diode test (squeals when shorted) between the terminals of the 2 relays and shake the harness to see if there's an intermittent break. If not, put one probe to ground to see if there's an intermittent short.
The red wire between the bottom (closest to the fender) terminal of the FP relay should be a DEAD short to the L terminal of the EEC relay (1st relay closest to the fender) AND to the red wires at:
the canister purge solenoid dangling in a vacuum line somewhere on the R side of the engine
pins #37 & 57 of the EEC
the MAF sensor
ALL the injectors
the IAC
pins #1 & 12 of the E4OD
the AIRD solenoid probably on the L side of the engine
the EGR solenoid probably beside the AIRD
Put a DMM set to diode test (squeals when shorted) between the terminals of the 2 relays and shake the harness to see if there's an intermittent break. If not, put one probe to ground to see if there's an intermittent short.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gurinder_s_gill
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
18
Dec 14, 2015 01:43 PM



