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replacing ball joints

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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 07:29 AM
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replacing ball joints

I am going to replace all the ball joints in my 95 F 150 4x4 5.0 FI and I am not sure about all the parts I should replace besides just the ball joints. This truck sat in my mothers front yard for 3 years, so I know that a lot of stuff is corroded. The right wheel camber is off 2 degrees and left 1.5 degrees. If someone knows what other parts should be replaced with the ball joints please tell me or what other work should be done to accompany replacing ball joints. Thanks a lot for your help.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 09:30 AM
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Not sure what parts you want to replace but here is an image that will allow you to get a close look at what is there. Let me know if you want more detail on the parts listed and I will post the instructions and pic details.

http://img153.imageshack.us/my.php?i...nts1995zz0.jpg
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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Check the drive axle U joints, these tend to dry out an seize.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 10:07 AM
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That picture is good. I havent been able to find a pic like that. I will just have to wait until I get them out to see if I need new camber adjustment bushings. Did you get this pic from a site that has more detailed pics and diagrams or instructions? Thanks. I got the truck for free and I want to make it good again, it really needs a lot of help. I will check those u joints.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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The pic is from a program I have.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 02:49 PM
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I just did my ball joints on my 95 F150 last week. I replaced the wheel seals and repacked the bearings.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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I was thinking about doing that while changing the b joints. I think I will. How long did it take you for the whole job? I am a helicopter mech, but I have absolutely no experience on trucks farther than a tune up stuff.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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It took me about a day. One thing that took me a little while to figure out was that once you pull the hubs off there is a snap ring in the middle that is easy to see and there is another one around that entire assembly that is hard to see. It might be different on auto hubs, I'm not sure. I would go to your local library and photocopy some pages out of a manual, that is what I did and it helped alot.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 07:10 PM
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Doing the ball joints is a big job. Why do you think they need to be replaced? Is there play in them? If you're just going by the alignment specs, lots of things can cause that.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 07:27 PM
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I had an alignment done and the ball joints is what the mechanics told me was wrong and they said they were not not going to touch the camber adjustments until it was fixed because they said it could make things worse if they adjust it with bad ball joints. I also jacked up the front end and followed the chiltons guide to see if there was play in the wheel between top and bottom and it did rattle a little. When my mother gave me the truck last month her husband said that the ball joints were bad. Oh well thats why I got it, I'll learn when I get it apart. What are other causes of camber being off?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 08:23 PM
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Ok, just checking.

Sagging springs are probably the most common cause of bad camber.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 10:56 PM
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I replaced the ball joints, u-joints, tie rod ends, drag links, repacked the wheel bearings, and replaced all the seals. It took me a couple of days because the ball joints were a bear to get out. 12 years of rust didn't help. Hope you got a set of torches and you'll need a ball joint remover and installer tool. They are expensive, but I heard you can rent one at Autozone. there is a good article on this site if you do a search. It has pic's and step by step instructions.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 11:20 PM
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I would think that worn out pivot bushing could cause the camber problem, but I have a 2WD with bad bushing and no camber problem ... 4WD might be worse with them worn out.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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When I did my ball joints I could not find a press to rent, so all that I did was use a big hammer and a set of drift punches and hammered my old ones out. It was not easy, but it worked. To put the new ones in I got a five inch section of pipe that had threads on it at the hardware store and a cap to put on the end. I put the pipe over the ball joint and hammered the new ones back in. I am young and in pretty good shape, but my arm was sore for a few days after I finished. A ball joint seperater was one tool that I picked up that was nice to have when I was trying to get the assembly to come off the truck.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2007 | 08:20 PM
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Local auto parts stores rent ball joint tools..... also a torch comes in handy to heat with before the beating begins. Good Luck!
 
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