hey just thinking about doing ladder bars for the rear of my truck just wondering if you guys could help me out with where i should put them and what i should use to build em (cant afford, so building my own) like where on the axle do i weld tabs for it to bolt up to, to stop axle rap ? where do i put them so i still can flex ?

 

The best way to keep the flex is to use a floating axle setup. There is a guy on here that has it done on his f100 not sure who though. If you have no lift out back and put on ladder bars you will stiffen that suspension something fierce. Just my thoughts.

 

Well if you want to do it cheap, you could use some standard heavy wall pipe from your local DIY store (Menards, Lowes, etc.). You will need to thread them for the helm joints. As far as the tabs, your best bet would probably be to buy some from somewhere like Summit Racing or Jegs. You will need to make a crossmember from box tubing or similar. By the time it's all said and done, you might want to look at what is offered for purchase. Jeffs Bronco Graveyard has some nice ones.

 

here is a link to some cheap ones (cheap in price not in functionality) that someone on this site sent me...also cant remember who. It seems to be a pretty easy design and rather hard to goof up. Im not sure how well it would work compared to Jeffs $300 set but for around $65 its worth a try.
http://www.dzljim.com/Ford/traction.htm
good luck

 

Might want to consider an alternative, single bar to the top of the axle housing, straight or a "Y" config. But, either way, single or traditional bars, you will need to flex the suspension and make sure the bar (or bars) movement matches the axle movement which will be in an arc. Easier said than done. If the two movements do not match, the bar or bars will bind the suspension at some point. Poly or rubber bushing in the ends can help relieve some of this binding if the movements are not exact.

For the single, something in the neighborhood of 5/8" - 3/4" tubing with threaded rod-ends and 1/4" -3/8" plate for the brackets. You will need to fab a crossmember or modify an existing depending on were you end up length wise.

I'm tossin' this one out here because it's for your wheelin' rig? Did the single bar set-up on mine until I installed the new spring packs that got rid of the stock blocks, didn't need the bar after that. It worked very well with 4" of lift and the bar was not all that long to gain the correct arc. Also wasn't anything down low to get hung up on the rocks or plow the mud.

Hope this helps!

 

Ladder bars are usually a repair for a problem, and not the true solution. Are there multiple blocks under your spring causing the axle wrap? Maybe the spring is just worn, and is doing a poor job of controlling the axle. My opinion is that it is better to fix the real problem instead of trying to cover it up with a quick fix, that may lead to other issues.
My$.02

 

to 75350, ladder bars are a repair for a problem and in my case a true solution i think due to i don,t think anything will stop spring movement with 42 inch mudd boggers and 650 horse

 

Yes, even if you don't have any apparent problems, you should be running something to limit axle rotation. Look in my galleries. I've tried a few different setups, and am now going to a single ladder bar with Heim joints. Running two ladder bars killed my articulation.

~Dave