94 ranger having starting issues
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94 ranger having starting issues
my ranger's been having problems starting ever since it got cold out. the starter cranks and the engine turns over only to stop. i have to repeat this process five or six times to get it started in the morning. i can tell the rpms aren't getting high enough, so i don't think the engine's getting enough fuel, but if i hit the gas at all, the engine just dies. if i start it while the engin is warm, it starts up no problem, but if i really hit the gas while moving, i can feel the engine missing, the truck jolts roughly. this was at first only noticeable in third and fourth gear, but it's getting worse and is now noticeable in second as well. i also don't seem to be getting the power i used to. at first i thought i had water in my fuel, but i put in a bottle of drigas with my last tank of gas and nothing has improved. any other suggestions? i haven't checked my fuel filter yet because its so darn cold outside. any thoughts would be appreciated.
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Might want to have the electrical system tested at an auto parts store. A lacking battery could have issues cranking a cold engine, especially in the cold weather, whereas a warm engine will crank right over.
While there, have the codes pulled, could have something on the miss while driving. Bring the actual numbers back here and we'll have a good start.
Welcome to FTE!
I'm thinking the cranking issue and the missing issue are at least mostly seperate.
While there, have the codes pulled, could have something on the miss while driving. Bring the actual numbers back here and we'll have a good start.
Welcome to FTE!
I'm thinking the cranking issue and the missing issue are at least mostly seperate.
Last edited by RangerPilot; Jan 29, 2007 at 07:32 PM.
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From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
Could be fuel but the only way to tell is put a pressure guage on it. Is you check engine light on? If so have the codes pulled. Since it's not OBDII you may not get any codes if it's a fuel problem.
1st place to start would be fuel pressure.
Could be a number of things
1st place to start would be fuel pressure.
Could be a number of things
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well i'd suspect the battery but i just replaced it last month. the engine has no problems cranking and turning over whatsoever, it just sputters out as soon as it turns over.
i'll try to get to a store sometime this week if i have time.
i'll try to get to a store sometime this week if i have time.
Post Fiend
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Oh ok...my fault for reading it incorrectly.
Agreed...sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Hard cranking seems almost like a fuel pressure issue at startup. Do you hear the fuel pump run solidly and steadily for two seconds after the key is turned to Run but the engine not started?
The pump could be going out, the relay could be having intermittent issues, but I'd bet a small amount at this point on the fuel filter, if it's been a while since it's changed.
Agreed...sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Hard cranking seems almost like a fuel pressure issue at startup. Do you hear the fuel pump run solidly and steadily for two seconds after the key is turned to Run but the engine not started?
The pump could be going out, the relay could be having intermittent issues, but I'd bet a small amount at this point on the fuel filter, if it's been a while since it's changed.
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Post Fiend
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Figure it'll be of some use just in case you've not heard it before:
disconnect the inertia switch (passenger side, front of floorboard), crank engine for 10 seconds.
Voila, fuel pressure relieved.
The clips on the fuel lines are crap and a total PITA to remove...DEFINETLY remove both before pulling either line (learned the hard way). Most quality filters will come with new ones, so no worries about busting them.
And it's a heckuva lot easier to do this job laying on your stomach from the passenger side (or if you're small almost sitting up), rather than laying under the frame on the driver's side looking up. Plus if the gas drops, it doesn't drop on you.
Hope it helps.
disconnect the inertia switch (passenger side, front of floorboard), crank engine for 10 seconds.
Voila, fuel pressure relieved.
The clips on the fuel lines are crap and a total PITA to remove...DEFINETLY remove both before pulling either line (learned the hard way). Most quality filters will come with new ones, so no worries about busting them.
And it's a heckuva lot easier to do this job laying on your stomach from the passenger side (or if you're small almost sitting up), rather than laying under the frame on the driver's side looking up. Plus if the gas drops, it doesn't drop on you.
Hope it helps.
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The engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT) will exhibit this symptom. The computer looks at this sensor when the engine is starting to check engine temp. If the engine is cold, it richens the fuel mixutre to start the engine much like an automatic choke would on a carbureted engine.
If the sensor is not working properly, the computer may think the engine is warm and will not provide the rich mixture to start the engine. The result is the engine continuing to die, bucking and jerking, until the engine is warm, then it runs normally.
The sensor itself will cause this, or any of the related circuity. jd
If the sensor is not working properly, the computer may think the engine is warm and will not provide the rich mixture to start the engine. The result is the engine continuing to die, bucking and jerking, until the engine is warm, then it runs normally.
The sensor itself will cause this, or any of the related circuity. jd
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jimdandy-
i've heard this before. the only reason i think this may not be the problem is that the engine continues to have hard jerky misses when i accelerate even after the engine has warmed up. it's certainly possible that these misses are unrelated to the starting problem. i probably need new plugs, which leads me to a different topic entirely. how on earth do i get the two plugs near the back out? the one on the left is blocked by the air conditioner and the one on the right is buried. anyway, is there any way to check the sensor? i don't want to just start dumping money into parts. i don't really care about the fuel filter, because it's probably due for a change anyway, and it's cheap, but i know an ect sensor's going to be a bit pricey if i need to replace it, plus i'm worried it might also be the fuel pump. i should probably pick up a pressure gauge tomorrow...
oh well... it could still just be the fuel filter. i'll replace that first and move from there.
thanks everyone for the advice.
i've heard this before. the only reason i think this may not be the problem is that the engine continues to have hard jerky misses when i accelerate even after the engine has warmed up. it's certainly possible that these misses are unrelated to the starting problem. i probably need new plugs, which leads me to a different topic entirely. how on earth do i get the two plugs near the back out? the one on the left is blocked by the air conditioner and the one on the right is buried. anyway, is there any way to check the sensor? i don't want to just start dumping money into parts. i don't really care about the fuel filter, because it's probably due for a change anyway, and it's cheap, but i know an ect sensor's going to be a bit pricey if i need to replace it, plus i'm worried it might also be the fuel pump. i should probably pick up a pressure gauge tomorrow...
oh well... it could still just be the fuel filter. i'll replace that first and move from there.
thanks everyone for the advice.
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ok, i've replaced the plugs, gapped to .46, and replaced the fuel filter.
it took me 10-12 tries to get it started and its still having the same misses and overall loss of power. the misses seem not quite as harsh as before, but that could be in my imagination...
it took me 10-12 tries to get it started and its still having the same misses and overall loss of power. the misses seem not quite as harsh as before, but that could be in my imagination...
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From: ut
Does your 94 have the 4.0L in it? If so I would definitely check the ECT sensor. Last week I just found on mine that the resistance check was good, but I found corrosion on the connector. The sensor mounts vertically, with the connector on top, and even with a rubber seal, contaminants somehow got in. Electrical contact cleaner got rid of the corrosion and the truck, and gas mileage, improved greatly.
Also, for what it's worth, when I bought the truck last summer, my throttle was very errratic, even at a constant interstate speed. No CEL showed, but a KOEO and KOER test showed the TP sensor bad.
Oh yes...at 50 degrees F your ECT should be about 58k ohms
70...37k ohms
100...16k ohms
140...7.5k ohms
etc...the sensor is called a negative coeffecient sensor. As the temp goes up, the resistance goes down. If there's an open circuit (infinite resistance) the computer thinks the outside temp is at minus 40.
Also, for what it's worth, when I bought the truck last summer, my throttle was very errratic, even at a constant interstate speed. No CEL showed, but a KOEO and KOER test showed the TP sensor bad.
Oh yes...at 50 degrees F your ECT should be about 58k ohms
70...37k ohms
100...16k ohms
140...7.5k ohms
etc...the sensor is called a negative coeffecient sensor. As the temp goes up, the resistance goes down. If there's an open circuit (infinite resistance) the computer thinks the outside temp is at minus 40.
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the ranger's a 3.0L. i'll check the sensor. if i'm in neutral and i hold the pedal down even, the rpms do fluctuate by about 300-500...
I would assume the ect ohm readings would be the same for the 3.0?
i left my multimeter at work. i'll grab it tomorrow and check the sensor.
also i'm not entirely sure the starting problem today was still the same problem... could it have possibly just taken that many tries to get the fuel line repressurized? i won't know for sure until the engine sits cold all night and i try to start it tomorrow morning. when i tipped the old filter over, quite a bit of dark black junk ran out of the intake end, so i'm sure it was due for a change anyway...
I would assume the ect ohm readings would be the same for the 3.0?
i left my multimeter at work. i'll grab it tomorrow and check the sensor.
also i'm not entirely sure the starting problem today was still the same problem... could it have possibly just taken that many tries to get the fuel line repressurized? i won't know for sure until the engine sits cold all night and i try to start it tomorrow morning. when i tipped the old filter over, quite a bit of dark black junk ran out of the intake end, so i'm sure it was due for a change anyway...