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I had one that fit the two tube intake. It made a noticable difference, However, it is just a cone filter with two outlets and two brackets. I spent an hour in ACE and made the tubes to finish it off.
They aren't that complicated, build one. save yourself around a $150 dollars. I built one for my wife's '99 Explorer. I built a box out of aluminum for the rice-eater cone filter to sit in and bolted the filter to the MAF sensor, sounds way cool. I want to build the pipe that goes inbetween the MAF and the throttlebody next, just need time.
for mine i went to autozone and bought two cone filters and a 6" extenstion tube so i could run my pvc hose into it and so the filters wouldn't be right next to each other then i made abraket to hold them up and secure cost about $55.00 mine was $35.00 because i had a gift card
I also had to fab my own adapter for one big K&N filter to fit the Holley390 that sits on the Clifford manifold in my van. I rolled some flat stock steel, welded a top to to and rolled another neck that faces the front of the van which the K&N is connected. And yes it does sound way cool at full honk boogie. I want to make a shroud to protect the filter, but it is working good. It's been on there for a year. Oh! By the way: K&N makes a good product and has been around for a long time.
For our naturally aspirated EFI's the FIPK's a overpriced for the results. Unless you done something to dramaticly increase the airflow demand the stock airbox more than adiquate.
The only real issue is with the paper elements commonly used, they are a segnificant flow restriction. Replace that with a high flow replacement element (example Fram AirHog, K&N direct replacement, etc) and you'll have the airflow delivery you need for most EFI 300 performance changes.
The stock filter is not a restriction until you've got significant mods done. The difference between a nasty filter with caked on crud (which I am embarrassed to have found on my truck) and no filter at all was only 2 hp. A clean paper filter will fall somewhere in between.
Exhaust makes the biggest difference. Go with full length headers and some big diameter pipes and free flowing mufflers and you will notice a difference. Also, have the curve on the distributer tuned for the mods, makes the difference, worth the $$$$. Get the head ported, factory set-up is stupid restrictive.
i figure if you have a performance cam,exhaust,chip,and ignition; a bigger tb and spacer plus intake will help it produce more power cause of the bigger demand of air the motor would want.
The only problem with that is that intake and TB aren't airflow restrictions until higher RPM's. The big airflow restriction is the head itself. The EFI head can only handle a mild port before you punch through in the the AIR journals (Intake port?).
The off the self "chips" only play with the ignition timing which is why they all recomend higher octane when in use.
The single biggest hinderance to performance gains in the EFI 300 is the lack commonly available custom tuning support for the stock EEC-IV's.
Originally Posted by 89300L64x4
i figure if you have a performance cam,exhaust,chip,and ignition; a bigger tb and spacer plus intake will help it produce more power cause of the bigger demand of air the motor would want.
yeah it would be nice if somone made a engine mangement box for a laptop or somthin. btw TS performance does make a chip with a switch on the fly for 87 and 93 octane levels i wish it sed how much it cost but it dont