Pulling hair out. . . .please help
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 244
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From: Michigan
kernel-panic if it was the cat then it would have stopped after i punched out the one on my other truck. And if it was the cat my old engine would have done the same thing.
As for the grounds I moved the one on the block to a different location and it made the problem worse. Now instead of it doing it a few times and then stopping now it does it all the time.
The 2 computer grounds look good but I could always give them a scrub. But I don't see how the computer ground could have just started to give me problems when i moved the block ground and it made the problem worse. Maybe I'll give that ground location a scrub too.
As for the grounds I moved the one on the block to a different location and it made the problem worse. Now instead of it doing it a few times and then stopping now it does it all the time.
The 2 computer grounds look good but I could always give them a scrub. But I don't see how the computer ground could have just started to give me problems when i moved the block ground and it made the problem worse. Maybe I'll give that ground location a scrub too.
New User
Joined: Jul 2006
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86 bII
I too, am having a similar problem. I'll be following your thread..
Hesistation at 2000-3000 rpm.
Ive got a new long block, new distributer, coil, both fuel pumps....
tfi modules relocated to fire wall with heat sinks. I also carry a second tfi for a quick swap.
Everyone always points to the tfi module... It's something else
I too, am having a similar problem. I'll be following your thread..
Hesistation at 2000-3000 rpm.
Ive got a new long block, new distributer, coil, both fuel pumps....
tfi modules relocated to fire wall with heat sinks. I also carry a second tfi for a quick swap.
Everyone always points to the tfi module... It's something else
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Michigan
Well Here is the skinny. I moved my block ground to the head and it made the problem MUCH worse. It was so bad that i could only do 15 mph with the foot to the floor in 2nd. I moved the ground back to the lower bolt on the alternator bracket and it is back to where it was before. I have 2 ground wires (before anyone thinks that my engine isn't grounded to chassis) One from the battery to the block and one from the battery to chassis. Tomorrow i am going to clean off the block ground under the right exhaust manifold and attach the ground there, clean off the chassis ground, and also clean off the ground for the computer in the cab
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Check all of your grounds, including the injector wiring harness, distributor, etc., then. I believe there should be a ground strap that goes from the rear of the block or one of the heads to the cab, and another one elsewhere in the engine compartment, as well as the ones going from battery to block, radiator support, and the one that is "fused" that should go directly to the computer, IIRC. Hope you have some satisfaction on fixing the problem soon!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Michigan
well i know that there is a strap running from the exhaust to the body and that is about it for the factory ground straps. And yes i will get much satisfaction from fixing the problem due to the fact that it is going on 3 years with the problem. but i plan on going through the grounds today.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
I have posted a few times about how I ground a Ford truck and what size gauge wire I use with the marine terminals. Just search on my user name, I have solved many driveability problems with it.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Michigan
Ok, Sorry about the delay. Today I went through my grounds, I put a new one on the body and a new one going to the ground on the plenum also went through and cleaned the other grounds and added dielectric grease to ALL grounds. Now the trucks runs worse than ever, on startup I have to hold my gas pedal down to make it run and when I am holding it steady the engine surges the RPMs go up sometimes as high as 3500 if I'm holding it steady at 1500. Now I can see the black smoke coming out of the tail pipe, before I couldn't, and it runs like 3 of the spark plugs are not hooked up. It use to rev up relatively quick but now it takes like 5 seconds to rev to 5000 before it would only take 1 or 2 to get there. I'm almost to the point where taking it to the dealership is my only option, I'm just hoping that there is something there can still be done and it fixes the problem. I am about to throw my old engine back in and see if it really IS this engine.
Last edited by dirtybroncoii; Feb 22, 2007 at 06:25 PM.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
Likes: 1
From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Check your firing order on your spark plug wires. I know, sounds silly, but...
Also, sounds like your O2 sensor bit the dust and/or your IAC or associated sensors have bit the dust. I would seriously re-re-re-RE-check everything. I don't think you needed the dielectric grease, but I don't think it would hurt? All I know is something is SERIOUSLY wrong and you have to re-eliminate and re-replace things with brand new parts and/or trace the problem down. I would also check all 6 injectors as well.
Also, sounds like your O2 sensor bit the dust and/or your IAC or associated sensors have bit the dust. I would seriously re-re-re-RE-check everything. I don't think you needed the dielectric grease, but I don't think it would hurt? All I know is something is SERIOUSLY wrong and you have to re-eliminate and re-replace things with brand new parts and/or trace the problem down. I would also check all 6 injectors as well.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,034
Likes: 1
From: NJ
Well if messing with the grounds keeps changing your driveability problems, then it would seem that is your problem. I know you said you went through every ground, but maybe try again. also look for any wires that are grounding out and shouldn't be. Don't think its any of your sensors. Definitely not your cat like suggested. I don't think swapping the motor will help either.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Michigan
Well everything that is on that engine (sensor wise) is off of the Eddie Bauer engine. And if any of those things where bad it would have screwed with the drivability of my Eddie Bauer. Also the dielectric grease will help prevent corrosion and keep the connections water tight.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,915
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From: Yokosuka, Honshu, Japan
Okay, try this... warm the engine up and then do a KOEO, KOER, and all the other code-pull tests with a code scanner and see what comes up. Either your firing order is partly to blame, or your sensors / computer are screwed, but without pulling codes, you'll just be fighting with this thing.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
DirtyBII, I know you already replaced it, but, what you described in #38 has happened when I
1) Got the firing 180 degrees backwards when I replaced the distributor because I did not do in on the top of the compression stroke, it was the exhaust. I could not believe I did it. Hey, it was my first parking lot fix of a TFI ...
2) That is the symptom I have gotten on two vehicles where the TFI went south. One that was almost new.
So ... I am thinking this might be TFI or distributor related, especially since it got worse with a better ground and since the problem moved with the vehicle. I hate to say it might be the hall effect switch since I never had one go on me in any Ford (I have never even done one in a Ford), but, the suspect list is pretty narrow by now.
The other thing I am wondering is if the distributor is worn and loose and this is causing a problem with the switch itself when it wobbles.
Have you tested for a short by removing the neg. battery cable and using the test light?
1) Got the firing 180 degrees backwards when I replaced the distributor because I did not do in on the top of the compression stroke, it was the exhaust. I could not believe I did it. Hey, it was my first parking lot fix of a TFI ...
2) That is the symptom I have gotten on two vehicles where the TFI went south. One that was almost new.
So ... I am thinking this might be TFI or distributor related, especially since it got worse with a better ground and since the problem moved with the vehicle. I hate to say it might be the hall effect switch since I never had one go on me in any Ford (I have never even done one in a Ford), but, the suspect list is pretty narrow by now.
The other thing I am wondering is if the distributor is worn and loose and this is causing a problem with the switch itself when it wobbles.
Have you tested for a short by removing the neg. battery cable and using the test light?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Michigan
Well here is the thing I am a certified auto mechanic and have done many distributor swaps and have NEVER put one in 180. maybe a tooth or 2 but never a full 180. The distributor has been pulled 3 or 4 times and i have put one in there with a good hall-effect switch. Also i have a big pile of working TFI's and Hall-Effect switches so i can switch them out if I need to. Also my distributor is only 3 or 4 years old, I replaced it due to the TFI module screws being stripped out.
Last edited by dirtybroncoii; Feb 23, 2007 at 07:25 PM.