Frame is done, I think :)
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Frame is done, I think :)
Well I still need to find some rear shocks and pick up the endlinks for the rear swaybar. I welded on the brake line tabs so I am ready for hard lines now. I need to raise the rearend, will be pretty easy just need to flip some brackets, will do this when Its more assembled. Its a volare front end with volare springs and shackles out back, pretty much what vern did right down to the 5x5 3/8ths angle mounting. I used the mark vii 8.8, it has 3.27 gears and a limited slip. It should ride very nice. I blasted it and then epoxy primed it and used a single stage paint on it.
So what do I do next, should I set the cab on to place the motor and build up the mounts?
more pics in gallery
So what do I do next, should I set the cab on to place the motor and build up the mounts?
more pics in gallery
old and in the way
Joined: Jul 1997
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 1,054
From: Lovely Hueytown Alabama
Gary,
you will definately need to know where the cab/firewall are AND the radiator will sit before you can set your engine with any confidence. So at least set it up temporarily. I did all that before I painted (actually it's will paint) the frame. Couldn't stand the thought of grinding off pretty paint to weld on the engine mounts. Don't forget the trans mount and crossmember have to be done also !!
If you're running a firewall PB booster you'll need it also to run your brake lines correctly. Someone should invent a dummy firewall mockup out of fiberglass or something, that will let you make your critical measurements for mounts and such without having to set the cab... mine has been on and off the frame so many times I can't count them
What engine/trans are you going to use ?? And with the Volare, some offset to the right will probably be necessary also.. that big ole honkin steering box offers lots of fabricating practice for the left engine mount..especially if you're running a big block...
the frame looks great... wish it were mine
later
john
you will definately need to know where the cab/firewall are AND the radiator will sit before you can set your engine with any confidence. So at least set it up temporarily. I did all that before I painted (actually it's will paint) the frame. Couldn't stand the thought of grinding off pretty paint to weld on the engine mounts. Don't forget the trans mount and crossmember have to be done also !!
If you're running a firewall PB booster you'll need it also to run your brake lines correctly. Someone should invent a dummy firewall mockup out of fiberglass or something, that will let you make your critical measurements for mounts and such without having to set the cab... mine has been on and off the frame so many times I can't count them
What engine/trans are you going to use ?? And with the Volare, some offset to the right will probably be necessary also.. that big ole honkin steering box offers lots of fabricating practice for the left engine mount..especially if you're running a big block...
the frame looks great... wish it were mine
later
john
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,734
Likes: 2
From: Kansas City area
Hi Gary-
Your frame looks good. I make too many changes to paint mine that early. I like to have everything on it in bare steel so if I need or want to make a change I'm not dealing with paint. And the way I work I would be scratching it everytime I turned around. I agree with John, you will need to have the cab and radiator support on the frame to get a clear idea of what is needed to locate and mount your engine/tranny. I would do that before I ran any brake lines. I do the brake lines after I have all the mounts in place, one of the end tasks. You may need to add some clips for your emergency brake cables also.
Your frame looks good. I make too many changes to paint mine that early. I like to have everything on it in bare steel so if I need or want to make a change I'm not dealing with paint. And the way I work I would be scratching it everytime I turned around. I agree with John, you will need to have the cab and radiator support on the frame to get a clear idea of what is needed to locate and mount your engine/tranny. I would do that before I ran any brake lines. I do the brake lines after I have all the mounts in place, one of the end tasks. You may need to add some clips for your emergency brake cables also.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
agreed, the frame looks great, but unfortunately you're going to be doing some paint grinding and welding as well as hole drilling before you're done, so I expect you'll be giving at least parts of your frame another painting. Offsetting you engine 2" to the right will go a long ways towards making installing the steering gear and exhaust much less a headache. Keep the centerline of the engine parallel to the frame when offsetting it, don't angle it towards the rear axle.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
I think I will do the remainder of the brake lines towards the end even if I was able to mock it up right they would be floating up in the air when the cab was back off.
I will set the cab on to mock up the engine, I don't feel like digging around to see if I have the cab mounts. I have plenty of lumber around though, should I use a 2x4 or 1x4 laying on top of the frame rail to get proper spacing? I will lay it parralel to the frame rail
Idealy I supose you would assemble everything take it down again and paint I just want a nice driver so I painted it this way and gloss black it pretty easy to touch up with a rattle can no biggie its just the frame. So far I have had to move the rear swaybar mounts in and weld the brake line tabs on. The rattle can matches good, since I have extra paint once I am all done I may give it another coat
I will be using a 5.0 HO and AOD, The donor is a mark vii thats where I got the rearend from as well.
I will set the cab on to mock up the engine, I don't feel like digging around to see if I have the cab mounts. I have plenty of lumber around though, should I use a 2x4 or 1x4 laying on top of the frame rail to get proper spacing? I will lay it parralel to the frame rail
Idealy I supose you would assemble everything take it down again and paint I just want a nice driver so I painted it this way and gloss black it pretty easy to touch up with a rattle can no biggie its just the frame. So far I have had to move the rear swaybar mounts in and weld the brake line tabs on. The rattle can matches good, since I have extra paint once I am all done I may give it another coat
I will be using a 5.0 HO and AOD, The donor is a mark vii thats where I got the rearend from as well.
Last edited by Gary E; Jan 28, 2007 at 08:37 PM. Reason: adding stuff
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,300
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Looks nice, What kind of paint is that?
I have a couple of structural questions.
It's hard to tell in the picture, but it appears you notched the frame over the rear axle? How thick (tall) is the frame channel there? It looks like only a couple inches?
With that rear spring hanger set-up, every time you hit a bump the rear frame rails are going to twist. Are you going to put a crossmember across the rear of the frame?
I have a couple of structural questions.
It's hard to tell in the picture, but it appears you notched the frame over the rear axle? How thick (tall) is the frame channel there? It looks like only a couple inches?
With that rear spring hanger set-up, every time you hit a bump the rear frame rails are going to twist. Are you going to put a crossmember across the rear of the frame?
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Its Kirker paint, Seems to be decent stuff, when I paint the body I think I will use the omni line though.
The notch is half way through, so 2 inches. At full compression it looks like I will need to raise that section of the bed 2 inches to clear the 8.8 pumpkin.
You are right I will have a moment around the frame rail at the rear with the rear shackles. I have not decided yet if it was worth worrying about or not do you think its a big enough issue to add another crossmember or move the the existing one back? My new chinese plasma cutter would make short work of those rivets.
With a 3-4 inch ride height (distance between axle tube and frame) and volare springs there will very little load capacity. The volare springs are super cushy should ride awesome, I was lucky too that the mark vii rear swaybar lined up well with the frame. Really if I am going to haul something the PSD with 8 ft bed will be the tool of choice.
The notch is half way through, so 2 inches. At full compression it looks like I will need to raise that section of the bed 2 inches to clear the 8.8 pumpkin.
You are right I will have a moment around the frame rail at the rear with the rear shackles. I have not decided yet if it was worth worrying about or not do you think its a big enough issue to add another crossmember or move the the existing one back? My new chinese plasma cutter would make short work of those rivets.
With a 3-4 inch ride height (distance between axle tube and frame) and volare springs there will very little load capacity. The volare springs are super cushy should ride awesome, I was lucky too that the mark vii rear swaybar lined up well with the frame. Really if I am going to haul something the PSD with 8 ft bed will be the tool of choice.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
On my 48 I moved the rearmost crossmember as far to the rear as possible but not interfere with the bumper bracket mount to reinforce the frame where the rear shackles are attached. I also moved the one over the rear end a little to align with the stock Chrysler shock mounting bracket when I installed the shocks. Yours is apparenly much lower since I did not have to C-notch or raise the bed floor. I painted my entire frame with POR-15. 
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,022
Likes: 9,976
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Wow! Looking good
That garage is way to clean to be working in though. You need to get some clutter and other stuff all over the floor. How can you work if you don't have anything to trip over?
Bobby
That garage is way to clean to be working in though. You need to get some clutter and other stuff all over the floor. How can you work if you don't have anything to trip over?
Bobby
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 831
Likes: 16
From: sacramento
Yes its boxed, should theoretically be as strong as stock.
Vern how far forward do the bumper brackets go, I guess I may as well move it back.
Bobby I know I am sorry I will get right on it
Vern how far forward do the bumper brackets go, I guess I may as well move it back.
Bobby I know I am sorry I will get right on it