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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:46 AM
  #1  
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Hitch advice

I need advice on which brand of class II reciver to buy for my van. Right now I am leaning twards a Reese or hidden hitch. My main concerns are price, of course, and the ability to maintain the spare in its location. Draw tight says the spare is retained but you need to order a special bar ( the pice that fits into the reciver and the ball mounts to it). I allready have a hitch on my trial blazer from the factory and my need to use that bar and ball depending on the trailers that need towing. Reese and Hidden Hitch do not say anything about the spare being retained.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 12:56 PM
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I would not be deterred by needing that bar. The one in your balzer won't work well, because you almost always need a lift hitch with an Aerostar anyway. Mine has a 4" lift hitch to keep my trailer level. A trailer that is unlevel reduces fuel economy, increase wind drag, and has a greater tendency to shimmy, so you'll want to keep it level. If you need an anti-sway bar, just get the appropriate lift hitch with the sway bar ball as well. You can find these at most auto parts stores and RV dealers. I am not sure what make my hitch is, It already had it when I bought the van.

Take a look

 
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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Got mine from uhaul. I have a full size spare...


Dick
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 10:03 AM
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Got mine from a Valley dealer. It looks like the one in Khanty's pics only cleaner .
Installation was straightforward. Much neater look than some others I've seen on Aeros and it spares the spare on my EXT. I tow my 26' sailboat with it among other things.
I would recommend a rear sway bar and maybe even bags if you have a heavy trailer.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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need rear air bags or rear air shocks with any more than 300 lbs hitch weight....or will break a rear spring with the multiple bottom outs
not fun finding a spring and getting one put in 500 miles from home

a Class III load equalizer hitch is well worth the $50 extra plus bars if doing more than occasional towing of more than 2000 lbs and 300lbs hitch weight....really helps with large frontal area trailers such as travel trailers in wind gusts
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jan 28, 2007 at 06:54 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:35 AM
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Thanks for all the info guys. I definitly will be looking at air shocks or an air bag.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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I recommend the type of air rides that mount to the frame and axle, they can handle more weight, last longer, and are probably easier to install. Check out JCWhitney for the air rides. If the trailer is large, and has a lot of surface that will be exposed to the wind, rear anti-sway bars are highly recommended as well. Start with the basics. I recommend the air rides weather you tow a trailer or not. The sway bar can wait, don't buy one unless you think you need it.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 11:34 AM
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This kit looks adequate for my use. I haven't Googled for a price yet

Air Ride

 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 01:13 PM
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I used air shocks and I mounted an $8.00 air compressor in the little storage area on driver side rear with a gauge so I could keep pressure up easily. It really works well. Not automatic but the next best. I look at it whenever I add fuel.

ken
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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My guess is that you want to maintain a "level" vehicle. Is there a reliable spot to stick a bubble or beam level that is parallel to the road? Then you have to assume you are not on a grade. Maybe the best idea is to compare front and rear bumper heights?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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That is the kit I have. My advise, don't get this set, upgrade. These are hard to install properly, and you can only inflate them to 35 psi. They also do not last as long as the heavy duty overloads. I will use mine till they fail, but they do not maintain the van level very well with even light duty trailers. They still better than nothing. Just hindsight tells me I should have gotten the better ones. These are not bad, don't get me wrong, but it took me and one other guy about 2 hours to install these, and he broke 2 impact sockets trying to undo the bolts that hold the coil springs in place. Once we go the overloads into the coil springs, it wasn't that hard to finish the rest of the job.

Sorry about the hitch being dirty. It has been too cold to clean the van. I tried, and the water would freeze before I could dry it off.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:35 PM
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got my air bags into rear springs without removing spring mounts....put on lift and let axles drop max or jack up and use jack stands
coat the bags in silicone dielectric grease and slide in just like greased pig...had mine 6 years or more pulling 3000lb+ plus trailer along with load equalizer hitch and rear sway bar....poly sway bar bushings all around....almost 8k GCVW at times

put mine in alone in abt 2 hrs, single feed from left side rear cargo box
messed around with in veh 12v compressor and air control to each bag but too many leaking fittings and lines to tear off 4wdr'g in logging road brush and rocks

anymore than 15 psi in bags with empty van will remove rear molars and bruise hemmroids
 

Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jan 29, 2007 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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We didn't remove the spring mounts to ge the air bags in, we removed the mounts to get the metal spacers that came with the kit in. The weight I deal with is greater, because I am hauling about 1000 lbs of stuff in the van at all times, and the trailer can still be loaded in excess of 3,000 lbs. These do the job alright, but if I had to do it over again, I would not get these. To keep the right close to level, mine ar inflated to their maximum rating of 35 psi. I dare not take them higher because they might burst if I go over a speed bump.

Next time I will get these
 
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