intermittent battery problem
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intermittent battery problem
hey, I have an 88 F-250 with the 6.9l and I am having intermittent battery problems. 7 out of 10 times it will start the vehicle perfectly. Then all of a sudden it won't turn the engine over and it is a bear to get jumped to start. Is it a possibility that the ground is messed up and not making good contact?
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Halstead, KS
I thought the 1988's had 7.3's in them, mine has one.... maybe yours got replaced with a 6.9, or either Im mis-informed. Anyways, could be your starter solenoid, ground connection, or corroded battery cables.
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Start with the batteries, make sure the're both in good....one bad battery will bring down the other
-check the cables and the connections....I've seen cables that look fine and corroided on the in side
-starter may be on the way out....requiring too many amps to turn it over, hence the difficult starting with jumpers?
-check the cables and the connections....I've seen cables that look fine and corroided on the in side
-starter may be on the way out....requiring too many amps to turn it over, hence the difficult starting with jumpers?
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I think 88 was the last year for the 6.9. Might have been a mid year break. not sure. the starter is only a year old and the batteries are only about 2 years old. Need to check the ignition switch, that might be a good place to start. when it does it, there is nothing or at least very little on the dash.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
87 was the last year for the 6.9.
When it does not want to start, carefully feel the passenger side battery cable clamp.
I had one that acted a lot like you are describing, drove me nuts even though it was a short trip.
One day I got mad and cut the passenger side positive cable clamp open with a cut off wheel. So much corrosion inside I don't see how the engine had started at all for years.
Replaced the positive cable and all has been fine for three years now.
All power to the truck goes through the passenger side positive battery cable clamp.
That is where everything joins up.
When it does not want to start, carefully feel the passenger side battery cable clamp.
I had one that acted a lot like you are describing, drove me nuts even though it was a short trip.
One day I got mad and cut the passenger side positive cable clamp open with a cut off wheel. So much corrosion inside I don't see how the engine had started at all for years.
Replaced the positive cable and all has been fine for three years now.
All power to the truck goes through the passenger side positive battery cable clamp.
That is where everything joins up.
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By the way, mine is an 87 sorry. Where did you find the pos. cable? I know they are pretty darn expensive, auto zone doesn't even carry one.
Last edited by horsesaslife; Jan 26, 2007 at 04:56 PM.
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From: south jersey
http://custombatterycables.com/application/f350_cables.htm i got mine from here they are very very good quality even better than the stock cables.
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a little update here. went home and worked on her a little still with no luck. I replaced the key switch, the ignition switch (above the column support bracket) and nothing got any better. I have more than 12v at the batteries and in the cable, but when I put the key in the run position (in order to warm the glow plugs) it sounds as if the gp relay is opening and closing very rapidly and I am not getting any voltage to the glow plugs. Now, the question is, what voltages should I be getting at the starter relay with the key in the run position? I get 12v with the key in off at the batt. term. and the term. with like 4 wires coming off of it (around 10 with the key in the start position and the gp relay rattling) and nothing on the small wire on the top post in any position. where do I go next? HELP ME!!!!!! lol 
Please?
Please?
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it use to be intermittent, but now it wont start at all, so it is hard to determine if it is temp. related or not. Like I said, when I turn the key to run, it sounds like the gp relay is clicking to beat the band and won't stop, and then when I try to start it, sometimes I get a clicking like the starter is trying to engage but there is not enough voltage. Kinda wondering I guess if the wiring for the gp controller comes off of the starter relay and if it is bad then it isn't getting enough voltage to the gp relay?
also, when I turn the key to run, it clicks and all the gages on the dash board bounce a little with the clicking. This is frustrating, she runs like a scalded demon once she starts, just can't get it started.
also, when I turn the key to run, it clicks and all the gages on the dash board bounce a little with the clicking. This is frustrating, she runs like a scalded demon once she starts, just can't get it started.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Have you tried jumping the starter relay on the fender.... go from big terminal to big terminal......... you could also try 12v power to the small terminal too. ENSURE the trans is in Park or nuetral (standard). Check the small wire for 12v when key is turned to start.
