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In North Carolina all the 60s that I have seen have been atleast 700$ and thats straight out of the junkyard. The 1 ton truck that the 60s come out of don't use radius arms and coils, they use leaf springs. You would use the same radius arms coils, track bar, and drag link that you would use to do the late 70s 44 swap. You could use the tie rod from the 60. The sterling/60 combo is probably a little overkill for 35s, unless you're real rough on it. But, the 8lug swap on a 44 isn't really gonna be stronger than a 5 lug 44, because you've still got 44 axle shafts. The only advantage to the 8 lug swap on a 44 is to match the bolt pattern on a rear sterling(if you have one) so you don't have to carry 2 spare tires. I kept my 8.8 and just did the 5 lug 44 SAS, and I had 35s and never had any thing break. But neither axle was locked. You can buy a lot of dana 44 axle shafts for the money you would put in buying the 60. If you ever plan on going bigger than 35s you might consider the 60.
edit-8lug swap on the 44 also gives you bigger brakes
ok, maybe I just like over building but the d44 should be ok, and the only reason to have to 8lug on front would be to match the sterling.
For now, though its sounds like my best bet would be to do you D44 swap, and if i need to, down the road the 10.25 could be put in and then all that would be needed would be an 8 lug conversion up front to match up... at least it makes sense to me, what do you think?
and who knows, after the D44, I might find out that it is plenty for me and save a lot of money and work, although it was really good to get all of this information to hash out possible future plans - thanks again guys for all the great help, now to start collecting parts
Josh, The 8.8 and D44 front combo worked great with 35's or 36's in my truck. I also have the 351 and E4OD, so it is comparible. I also run a Ford Traclock in the rear and welded spiders in the front. I have abused the truck with a plow in the winter, mud bog and offroading in the spring, summer and fall, and also carried loads of wood in the fall. The only reason for me to change to the 10.25 in the rear is so I can up the HP on my motor when I do a rebuild. I am keeping the D44 in the front for now simply due the the cost of a D60, and the fact that I put a bunch of $$ into my D44 last year with alloy shafts. When it breaks, I'll make the swap out t oa D60, if I can find one.
Long story short, if you aren't planning on doing some hard core wheeling/rock crawling you should be fine with the 8.8 and D44 SAS with your choice of 4.10 or 4.56 gears.
That would be awsome to have on the truck. I doubt I be able to break one of those monsters unless I got super crazy with the stupid pedal. The biggest down fall it the 1500 pound added weight they would add to an already too heavy mud truck. But then again the 19.5 wheel with some monster 72" tires.......
Good thread, lots of good info. One question that seems really applicable here is that to do this, instead of notching the crossmember, or going with the bigger lift, wouldt it be possible to swap out the front crossmember from a F350 of the same era? Since it already had the D60 up front?