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has any one had any experience with a cebora mig welder. there made in italy other than that i dont know much about them. i just found one for sale and was wondering wether they are any good.
I have a Cebora 810 (140 amp). It is the same welder that Daytona Mig sells. They have parts. I have had mine for a bunch of years and it works well for light metal. Have used it on aluminum, stainless and mild steel. Also works well with silicon bronze wire for sheet metal. The silicon bronze greatly reduces the heat distortion problem.
thanks im gonna go take a look at it tonight. all it says in the add is wirewelder 130. so i called him and he told me the brand and some more info on it. it does need a gas regulator but i should be able to get one.
Make sure it has a connection on the unit for the gas line. It may not have a regulator because it was not set up to use shielding gas only flux core wire. I don't know what he's asking but a regulator is ~ 60-70.00 so factor that into the price. If I was looking for a mig welder I would want one that not only uses shielding gas but also can handle standard 8" spools in a min of .025 and .030 wire both at the feed and the two size tips are available as well.
I have a Cebora 810 (140 amp). It is the same welder that Daytona Mig sells. They have parts. I have had mine for a bunch of years and it works well for light metal. Have used it on aluminum, stainless and mild steel. Also works well with silicon bronze wire for sheet metal. The silicon bronze greatly reduces the heat distortion problem.
But the Si-Br is likely to cause paint adhesion and joint cracking problems instead. I would not us Si-Br for bodywork.
well the guy sold it today before i got to it so ill just have to save my pennies and buy one. any suggestions on which ones are good. i know ill get either lincoln, miller or hobart. but not sure on size and features. any suggestions would be great.
Depends if you have 220 outlet or not. I have the Hobart 140 (115V) and am quite pleased with it, does everything I've asked of it so far. If I would have had 220 available when I bought it I'd have opted for the 175 instead to have a little more capacity available.
I brought a nice factory recondition hobart 180 from Toolking.com for 599 and man this is a nice powerful welder worth every penny. I done all my sheetmetal and frame work with this thing it makes me look better than I really am.
Make sure it has a connection on the unit for the gas line. It may not have a regulator because it was not set up to use shielding gas only flux core wire. I don't know what he's asking but a regulator is ~ 60-70.00 so factor that into the price. If I was looking for a mig welder I would want one that not only uses shielding gas but also can handle standard 8" spools in a min of .025 and .030 wire both at the feed and the two size tips are available as well.
Not to mention the cost of the bottle... and if the gun's lead doesn't have the passage for gas, it just won't happen at all. If you're buying used, go for a quality unit that has it all!
Packrat,
S-bronze works well. Google for "silicon bronze welding". General motors has some procedures for replacing quarter panels on some late models using it. They use it for several of the original body joints.
See also http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/brazing.htm for some additional info. I use straight argon gas and set the welder up to spray arc similiar to welding aluminum.
Used a Cebora MIG marketed by Daytona Mig under the moniker "Pocket MIG" for many years and it was fine for light sheet metal work. Not so good for heavier fabrication. Bought an HTP welder a few years back to replace it and I've been very happy with it - bought the small machine - if I had to do it over I'd pop for the next size up (more amps) machine and get a bit more penetration on thicker steel.
In general I'd stay away from flux core wire machines and go ahead and pop the extra dollars for the gas bottle and regulator...I think it makes a big difference in the quality of the weld. I have access to a Miller machine if I need to weld somthing thicker than about 3/16"...up to that the HTP is just fine. Miller is also a good machine - just more dollars. For a lot of thin stuff I like to use a torch but I don't mind slow and I like to be able to work the metal and the torch allows that. Basically it allows me to burn holes in metal much slower than the MIG! Somehow that's more satisfying!!!
thanks im am definatly getting a mig with gas not flux core. iv got a little 110 volt craftsman flux core that i am borrowing from a friend and it works a lot better than a torch but still isnt great. i do have a 220 outlet but i would think a 110 would be a littler hander as i would just need a normal out let to run it. any suggestions on what feuters are usefull and those that arent.
If you are looking for a 110 machine (really should use a 20A outlet tho for safety and less blown breakers in the middle of welding) Then I'd highly recommend the one I have, the Hobart 140. It can be found at Northern Tool and elsewhere for <500.00 with free shipping and they often have a special with a free cart. It's luggable, (Mine resided in the corner of our kitchen for 2 years between uses before our garage was finished) comes with the gas setup, can take industry standard 8" spools or the DIY store's 4" for say a spool of stainless, and can be set for .025 or .030 wire without needing any extra parts. The stinger takes Miller (the parent of Hobart) and Lincoln tips as well as Hobart. Parts, should they ever be needed, are available at almost any welding supply store. It will handle steel from 24 ga to 3/16" (seldom will you need to weld anything thicker on a truck, frames are only 1/8") and will penetrate 1/4" with fluxcore wire. I needed to move some holes in a 5/16" plate, I filled the original holes with a couple passes of the 140.
Mine came with a flip plate helmet with a real head harness not one of those cheapie "holloween" masks on a handle that requires you to hold with your hand while welding they give with many economy welders. Also included was a nice pair of gloves and a combo wire brush/chipping hammer.
I would recommend you get a larger size shielding gas tank rather than one of the mini ones. The lower upfront cost of the little tank will be quickly offset in frequent refilling charges, and they always seem to run empty on the weekend! Also plan on investing 100-200.00 on a good self-darkening helmet, It will shorten your learning curve and ease of use emensely! Once you use one you won't go back to the flip lens. Get one that has a response time of 1/12,000 sec or quicker, can be adjusted for darkness from 9-12 (for mig you'll use 9 or 10) and has battery backup if solar powered unless you'll be welding outside all the time.